Stephen

No room for them really Si. These 15mm ones are really the max that will fit. Even with rolled arches. I know ebaich do 15mm ones, I had a set but the thread protrusion effects the wheel face. Plus these 15mm ones are sat here already.

Really? 8 years ago the western economy suffered a big crash, thankfully it didn't collapse. Various other mid and far eastern countries continued to be be extremely wealth. Chinese wealth is in fact crazy, more millionaires blah blah. The global economy is pretty good. The dollar, euro and Stirling are sadly lagging behind, complex. Food, is in surplus in most of the world. Look how much is wasted by supermarkets, restaurants even households. Oil and gas rather than running out are becoming restricted with treaties to leave x volume in the ground to prevent carbon emissions. Look at the crash in price we've seen recently. There is no police state with an iron hand. In fact a soft and overly liberal state and media rule in the west. The police are relatively powerless and resemble social workers more often than not. Violent crime particularly here in the U.K. is at an all time low. Globally things are pretty good compared to 50-100 years ago. We just have a stale economy here and a reliance on fuel technology not dissimilar to that of 50 years ago. The troubles of our times are complex and debated but there's a lot of positive out there if you stop reading the guardian

Ah. Cool. Cheers in advance.

They front or rear bud? Is there a difference?

I'd be tempted, if you can't find a good replacement that is. To either relocate an appropriate battery to the boot, I don't personally merit that much tbh. Or have yours/another acid dipped and galvanised.

Can anyone advise me on some decent quality replacement rear wheel studs to suit 15mm spacers. I don't want to get some off the bay and shear them off first hard launch. The ones I've found only seem available in 10 or 20mm extension. Not sure if the 20s would be too long and prevent proper tightening?

Just to update this I checked the two 15A fuses in the footwell 0v. Tested the one aside it for reference and they were showing 12v. Pulled the glovebox to look for the resistor. I believe I found it and the blower motor itself. There was no power here either. So I guess fuse box removal next?

Ok so I pulled the data from the sensors this afternoon while I had a few minutes. They are as follows; 00 6 01 6 02 5 03 21 04 7 05 8 06 1 07 80 08 31 09 36 10 40 11 111 12 132 13 51 14 30 15 0 16 3 Obviously there's little point in the actuator readings at present because I have no fan to feel any difference. When I get a minute il go test the fuse power. I don't know what 09-16 indicate but number 08 mode door voltage reads 31 and the suggestion was this should read 0-5.

Cheers for the detailed reply Jeff. I'd assume it's a sensor fault due to the fact I've managed to successfully close that valve and cool the heat exchanger manually through the climate control diagnostic. It was probably not refitted when the original owner pulled lots of that stuff out to run his boom box cables. I've had this hot air only issue since I got the car. I suppose the logical step next with thatvthen is to go back through the diagnostics and get the sensor readings. Any idea why the blower isn't activating? This is a new problem that's occurred without me fiddling previously. Can I test wether the fan is recieving power, without pulling the dash apart? I assume there's a fuse or relay.

I thought that would be the case. Cheers for clearing that up.

I thought you were doing away with the Bangkok disco lights?

Winner. I need to pop over anyway, drop your sill return off. Been hella busy with the incubator ;) though.

I see, so it uses the aircon like a mixer tap? tbf though as I say it threw hot air out regardless before. I always assumed it needed regassing. Not so fussed on the inability to have cool air in. Just stop heat and use the Demister.

If that's where it takes me that would be handy mate. Obviously though I want to go through and do a bit of fault finding first rather than just throwing parts at it. My gut instinct says it's a pod fault.

I'm a bit lost were to start here. So I'll describe the faults and symptoms and what I've got. I've tried using the diagnostic on the pod which revealed not a lot and the instructions were incredibly poorly written and didn't actually seem to corrolate with what was infront of me. I've got the early didgital climate control, with the high & low settings on the side. The car is an 89/90 model JDM car. The air con compressor and rad are removed. Some of the fault predates this, the other has occurred a few years after those mods so it's not in my opinion the likely culprit. The two faults I have are as follows; When the fan is on it blows hot air, regardless of the set temperature. This making the cabins touch cosy as the heat exchanger is permanently hot. Using the manual activation of the actuator in the diagnostic program allows cool air to be blown. Returning to normal operation the heat is back. The fan blower itself now no longer works. This started a few weeks back. No air is switched on regardless of the settings. I've read a few threads on the subject but now found a golden goose and I really need some pointers at least what can I test and isolate this pesky issue. I've had a look at the fuses in the drivers footwell and none are blown.

I sat in the drivers seat and gave mine a yank, I nearly punched myself in the face but it came off pretty easy.

The diff alone weighs more than a small planet. :lol:

I've got a fair few bits of Halfords Advanced and I highly rate it for the price. Some of the expensive stuff, sockets wise is no better. Drivers and more expensive/complex tools are worth the extra. I mostly use screwdrivers rather than spanners on a daily basis, I'm simply not replacing my expensive CK/Klien screwdrivers, the Stanley ones are actually better. A few of my close mates are Pro mechanics though and use car type tools more and still highly rate the Advanced stuff. SnapOn get moaned about but the warranty and convenience aspect make them worth money. Britool stuff is pretty damn good. For a hobbyist Halfords Advanced is more than adequate and id add too rather than replace it. I do have a trade card which helps but often there on sale and the offer is good anyway. What do you feel your lacking?

Oh for ****s sake, dropping like flies this week! Very sad.

Do yourself a massive favour and give it all a damn good flush. Run a hose through rad etc then replace all the pesky water pipes, cost you more in time than money. Biggest cause of zed pains are those 25 year old rotten pipes.

Sounds like an air lock. Trying burping the system as per the manual.

I did. It's 1/8" bsp I believe, most aftermarket ones are 1/8" npt.

I hate, actually f-ing hate driving in London. Not only because it's a congested rats nest of a place where the road layout changes daily and you pay for the pleasure of driving there. But because it's like one giant trap, from psychotic cycles and phantom bus lanes to areas like Islington with its blanket 20mph restriction. I'd rather drive through Amsterdam or Brussels on the wrong side of the road than that place. If the rest of the UK follows suit, il be hanging up my car keys and buying a push bike.

Having worked out one or two things like that for myself, you look at things and have a hunch and try.

Do your research and you will find there's another Nissan, primera I think that is much cheaper and fits.