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I'm a bit lost were to start here. So I'll describe the faults and symptoms and what I've got. I've tried using the diagnostic on the pod which revealed not a lot and the instructions were incredibly poorly written and didn't actually seem to corrolate with what was infront of me.

 

I've got the early didgital climate control, with the high & low settings on the side. The car is an 89/90 model JDM car. The air con compressor and rad are removed. Some of the fault predates this, the other has occurred a few years after those mods so it's not in my opinion the likely culprit.

 

The two faults I have are as follows;

When the fan is on it blows hot air, regardless of the set temperature. This making the cabins touch cosy as the heat exchanger is permanently hot. Using the manual activation of the actuator in the diagnostic program allows cool air to be blown. Returning to normal operation the heat is back.

The fan blower itself now no longer works. This started a few weeks back. No air is switched on regardless of the settings.

 

I've read a few threads on the subject but now found a golden goose and I really need some pointers at least what can I test and isolate this pesky issue. I've had a look at the fuses in the drivers footwell and none are blown.

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I've got the early series climate ECU if you want me to send it over?

  • Author

If that's where it takes me that would be handy mate. Obviously though I want to go through and do a bit of fault finding first rather than just throwing parts at it. My gut instinct says it's a pod fault.

If that's where it takes me that would be handy mate. Obviously though I want to go through and do a bit of fault finding first rather than just throwing parts at it. My gut instinct says it's a pod fault.

 

steve I have a couple of ecu if you need to test and another pod to eliminate that.

You have climate control when its fully fitted,it mixes cold air with hot to regulate temp,as its deleted this is what happens.

  • Author
You have climate control when its fully fitted,it mixes cold air with hot to regulate temp,as its deleted this is what happens.

 

I see, so it uses the aircon like a mixer tap? tbf though as I say it threw hot air out regardless before. I always assumed it needed regassing. Not so fussed on the inability to have cool air in. Just stop heat and use the Demister.

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steve I have a couple of ecu if you need to test and another pod to eliminate that.

 

Winner. I need to pop over anyway, drop your sill return off. Been hella busy with the incubator ;) though.

I see, so it uses the aircon like a mixer tap? tbf though as I say it threw hot air out regardless before. I always assumed it needed regassing. Not so fussed on the inability to have cool air in. Just stop heat and use the Demister.

 

Yes unless in economy mode it cuts the ac in always even at high temps,the duct sensors measure temp and adjustments are made to maintain the heat at a constant.

Ok firstly forget anything now connected with the air con side of the system as with the removed items mean it now only operates as a conventional heater but with reduced climate control as Jim mentioned the two normally operate as one unless in economy mode, you now have only economy mode.

 

So the heat is regulated by both the flow of water through the matrix been reduced or increased via the valve and also by various air mixer flaps, all in conjunction with pod temperature setting and the cabin and duct temp sensors. So to your problem, the valve to the heater matrix is not shutting off when cold is selected, this is could be due to the operation cable on the valve not connected correctly or the return spring missing. But the most common reason is one or both duct temp sensors under the drivers knee panel are disconnected as this causes a fault and an internal duct temp of -50c which is why the matrix valve is not closing down.

 

Remove the knee pads and check if there are two plastic ducting in place, if not that's the problem if they are check the two connections are in place as it is really common to find they have previously been removed and forgotten to reattach them.

 

Jeff

Edited by JeffTT

  • Author
Yes unless in economy mode it cuts the ac in always even at high temps,the duct sensors measure temp and adjustments are made to maintain the heat at a constant.

 

I thought that would be the case. Cheers for clearing that up.

  • Author
Ok firstly forget anything now connected with the air con side of the system as with the removed items mean it now only operates as a conventional heater but with reduced climate control as Jim mentioned the two normally operate as one unless in economy mode, you now have only economy mode.

 

So the heat is regulated by both the flow of water through the matrix been reduced or increased via the valve and also by various air mixer flaps, all in conjunction with pod temperature setting and the cabin and duct temp sensors. So to your problem, the valve to the heater matrix is not shutting off when cold is selected, this is could be due to the operation cable on the valve not connected correctly or the return spring missing. But the most common reason is one or both duct temp sensors under the drivers knee panel are disconnected as this causes a fault and an internal duct temp of -50c which is why the matrix valve is not closing down.

 

Remove the knee pads and check if there are two plastic ducting in place, if not that's the problem if they are check the two connections are in place as it is really common to find they have previously been removed and forgotten to reattach them.

 

Jeff

 

Cheers for the detailed reply Jeff. I'd assume it's a sensor fault due to the fact I've managed to successfully close that valve and cool the heat exchanger manually through the climate control diagnostic. It was probably not refitted when the original owner pulled lots of that stuff out to run his boom box cables. I've had this hot air only issue since I got the car.

I suppose the logical step next with thatvthen is to go back through the diagnostics and get the sensor readings.

 

Any idea why the blower isn't activating? This is a new problem that's occurred without me fiddling previously. Can I test wether the fan is recieving power, without pulling the dash apart? I assume there's a fuse or relay.

Ok the fan is easy to access without major dash work, the power for the fan is from two fuses in the drivers footwell fuseboard and is marked up on the lid / panel. Pull the fuses and check with ignition on if there is power to the fuses. The fuse box can fail as can the auxiliary relay on the back and not switch the bus line feed to these fuses.

 

Another problem can be the fan speed resister, to check this by removing the glove box and the small cloth curtain behind there. You will see a silver assembly screwed into the heater box duct, check for power in and out there.

 

The fan itself is accessed by looking up from the passenger footwear and can be removed easily if the motor is stuck or failed.

 

Jeff

Edited by JeffTT

  • Author

Ok so I pulled the data from the sensors this afternoon while I had a few minutes. They are as follows;

00 6

01 6

02 5

03 21

04 7

05 8

06 1

07 80

08 31

09 36

10 40

11 111

12 132

13 51

14 30

15 0

16 3

Obviously there's little point in the actuator readings at present because I have no fan to feel any difference. When I get a minute il go test the fuse power. I don't know what 09-16 indicate but number 08 mode door voltage reads 31 and the suggestion was this should read 0-5.

Edited by Stephen

  • Author

Just to update this I checked the two 15A fuses in the footwell 0v. Tested the one aside it for reference and they were showing 12v.

Pulled the glovebox to look for the resistor. I believe I found it and the blower motor itself. There was no power here either. So I guess fuse box removal next?

Is there a wiring diagram for the climate control system?

 

I have the full paper manual. with all the info you need!!!!

  • Author

Cheers Gaz I think I've found it anyway on the online service manual. Looks like I've gotta pull the fuse box and inspect the relay on the rear of it.

  • Author

Ah ha! I think I have an idea what's going on. Il update whether it worked tomorrow.

  • 3 months later...
  • Author
Did it work or not lol?

 

I didn't end up checking :lol: battery is flat at the moment and I've been doing all the other bits to the car.

  • 3 weeks later...

did you sort the issue of the fan blower not running. mine is doing it now after a bit off the road thanks

  • Author
did you sort the issue of the fan blower not running. mine is doing it now after a bit off the road thanks

 

Nope, not yet. It's low priority ATM. I suspect the fault lies in the fuse/relay box.

  • 9 months later...
  • Author

Right I have to revisit and rectify this. Even if it’s to activate the blower only, to pass the MOT.

So the fuse holders have no power, the motor has no power, relays to check next I guess? Which are located on the fuse box rear?

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Now I have a headache. I removed the fuse box and inspected the relays swapping the RH headlight and Blower relay to no avail. The headlight worked indicating the relay as operational. The over all condition was very good, better than I expected. Targa drain checked whilst there. Now for the headache.

Someone has been messing about before I owned the car. The relay marked ACC I assume accessories? Has been replaced with an generic relay and a sub harness, obviously I cannot be certain of its suitability or even configuration. So I’ve left it out until I can find out the appropriate one, I assume the same as the Blower? Blue?

Currently I still have no ****ing blower, and now no display on the pods and the driver side indicators are on constantly with the ignition. I hate this car.

The relay marked ACC I assume accessories? Has been replaced with an generic relay and a sub harness, obviously I cannot be certain of its suitability or even configuration. So I’ve left it out until I can find out the appropriate one, I assume the same as the Blower? Blue?

 

If you mean this one then yes Blue.

 

Fuse Block 3s.jpg

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

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