Stephen

They do indeed, the Americans don't rate them at all. However I believe a lot of this negative press is due to the company's early history when they were redrilling stock injectors. It's also all well and good people slagging off JECs but the OEM injectors are made by JECs, the 500cc size is featured as stock in some Subaru models.

Welcome. I pass through Arundel regularly.

The led will illuminate if the ECU has power. It does have to be in diagnostic mode to show the codes though.

The plug will have been fuel fouled Bill, once the heat got to it, it burnt off. Interesting that it did it though, time to check a few things. The ECU temp sensor and connection would be a good start and pull your ECU codes.

Love it!

Do you have any power?

:lol: nice edit.

Me too. You hear, I took a 25 year old car that hadn't been serviced for 20 years, turned up the boost and it blew the engine. Must be a shit unreliable car, it's the only logical conclusion.

Pop your specks on and read the question again Joel :lol:

This, this is probably why you got it cheap. Not only would that fail an MOT but that is the tip of a very painful iceberg. When these cars were worth less a few years back most would of told you to scrap it, seriously. Next time your working on this car take a wire brush, preferably a soft one on a grinder and hit that sill to remove the under seal. What you will find will be 10xs more than what you see. To repair that you need to learn some welding and fabrication skills. There's a few sensible warnings on here about your intentions. Put it this way though, if you earned the UK national average wage restoring keeping one z32 on the road will be difficult with the cost of living these days let alone two. Being totally honest most people your age or slightly older are going to struggle to live on that money (esp in your part of the country) let alone have luxury projects. If your serious about this business I think one of them projects needs the boot.

I take it it's not a testable fail then? Just not legal lol.

Gotta get that bangcock disco out the door handles. :lol:

I've killed one, due to PS pump leaks.

Do I legally need back boxes? Or can I run actual straight through? :devil:

I'd just stand there on the bold as brass blag and inform them that "it's an import and they didn't come with cats till 93, only UK and Euro models were fitted with cats before this date. So being an 89 it's never had cats." Either they believe you or call you a liar (which you would be) but to hell with it. Interestingly my MOT last year states "exhaust system noisey" in the advisory section. Does help I have removed the AIV etc.

Four by my count. This one, Gios car used in the fastest Zed drag race, the budget coupe episode where Hammond has a red one and a purple one that red light grand prixs past Hammond in London on a scooter.

It's hell of heavy. If you dropped it on your face from 12" up I doubt you'd live to tell the tale. I tried refitting one on my own, quickly realised it was a bad idea. Me and a friend got it in but due to the lack of space laid on our backs we had to lift at a funny angle, most of the weight with one arm, was shite. If I was going to do it again I think I'd refit the whole frame assembled.

That's odd. Everyone I've ever seen it's been two bolts. If it's a stud with a nut then do as Chris suggested and get the nut splitter. It will be off in minutes with no damage. Doing it the way you plan is a recipe for a headache and swearing and a cock up.

I don't recall them being different. You not got a spare speed sensor from an auto to compare? Why can't you remove the starter?

It's part of the Alternator harness iirc. We will use your auto loom. However you can just unplug all those connections at the box end. Try to remove the starter. Try applying a flat blade screwdriver behind the bolt head as you undo, should lift out. The bell housing issue will take minutes to repair.

It is right now...have you not read the sun or listened to the BBC recently. The end of the world is nigh.

You can but try, however I don't think it's the most likely fix. I'd ditch the catch can set up and refit a properly functioning PCV system first and foremost. I'd do a compression test to, just to isolate that from the scenario. I know plenty of people have used catch cans and astomspheric vents but personally my engine didn't like it and smoked. Refitting it resolved my issue.

I don't think I'd get away with in February, my annual Grayling fishing session has already been cancelled for the same reason which I can't currently divulge.

So...I'm not saying this will help. Any of it but there are some things you can consider before crying about the labour and parts bill. Firstly what you need to understand is oil is being evaporated, not burned as it drops from the rear of the turbo into the exhaust. That's why it's grey, not blue. Secondly the oil is passing here because it's the easiest path. The lowest pressure is your exhaust, not as it should be one engines sump. Even a worn seal can be prevented from leaking with the right amendments. First up, do a compression test. Excessive blow by from a worn engine could be the cause and even replacing the turbo would be a waste of time and money. Secondly why did you delete your PCV system? Not only is it there for emissions but it's there to scavenge the oil galleries and dump creating negative pressure. This helps the oil make its way where it should go. In the front pipes, the ones from the cam covers to the accordion pipes, is a brass restriction. This limits the air coming in and drops the pressure. Check the crank case pressure with a boost gauge hooked to the dip stick. Removing the system has hopefully left you with zero pressure but that's still higher than -5 or whatever. You could of actually made things worse. A common trick is to fit a nonreturn valve in that front pipe, drastically lowering crank case pressure. Thirdly, in the stock exhaust there are multiple restrictions that cause back pressure, there is also a link that balances the exhaust known as a H pipe. A free flowing exhaust takes away that back pressure in the pursuit of back pressure. You see where I'm going an exhaust with lower pressure than the crank case equals leak. There is also a school of thought that a separated system like yours with no H or X is disbalanced and the exhaust pulses suck oil from the turbo, anecdotal evidence is out there that installation of a balancing link will stop the smoke. I'm not saying for one minute do one or all of these and your problems will disappear but without considering these things a new turbo at great expense may see you no further forward. You need a why. I'd hate to see you throw four figures to fix a problem that doesn't exist.

The series' as we call them are a bit of a made up thing. Don't think the Climate control changed till much later. The door belts thing is an easy fix too, certainly I the grand scheme of your plan.