Stephen

What's wrong with a series 1 birdy boy?

Christ, the ability to ignore each other permanently is just what this forum of a minority car needs.

Ah, that bad ey.

I wouldn't go that far, just spent 8 years keeping a pain in the ass red car running. A great mind would sell it :lol:

If it's manual you'd becquids in breaking it, assuming it's the body that's shit.

I take it your exhaust has no X or H pipe? Looks like a failed rear turbo seal. When did it start? Seems Jimmer beat me to the punch there. Good to see he agrees though.

Indeed, you should be able to buy a complete conversion minus Prop Shaft for not much more than that. Hell you can buy a whole NA for not much more.

Sorry to see this. I assume that wasn't what you agreed to, well within your rights to demand an improvement on that.

Who's knows Irelands future may have kph speed limits and Monopoly money in store yet. :lol:

Two piece prop, solid diff and solid subframe. Yeah the sound is noticeable but not annoying with an interior. I drove it with a stripped boot and you could hear it full chat over the exhaust, was like being followed by a jet.

I have the solid sub frame and diff mounts, James did the hard part in that one for me. What I can tell you though is that there is a definite noise transmission through them and you will feel the diff back lash on hard over run. I can't comment on that versus Poly. What I can say is that there is NO play with the solid mounts when refitting the frame and I had a mare joggling the frame home.

There's an password on that video bud.

I'd take this advice. You've proven the viscous isn't locked out with the card test. The noise is coming from the nose cone, sounds like a dodgy ECU sensor as was the other suggestion. Notice Jimmer also pointed out your CAS being wound right up. If the ECU temp sensor is poo your timing will be affected too. Maybe the timing was set on a gauge warm engine whilst the ECU was trying to advance it to warm up the block. As has been suggested by the guys you need to check that connection is clean and if it is resistance check that sensor. Sounds like you could do with an expert like Jimmer to cast thier eye over the car and set it up correctly. I know your using someone local but an experienced hand in these cars wil save you a fortune longer term.

How the hell does that stay on the floor! Surely the weight of the object, the RC car, it would just take flight!!?

From what I've been told, you can spray a 2k clear over a 1k base (colour) coat. We're lucky and have a really helpful paint supplies place called Rainbow Paints round here, if you've got somewhere like that just ask and they will soon tell you al you need to know.

I'd have a stab in the dark and say from what I understood of your question that's your most likely culprit. New viscous couplings are not cheap though, £300+ from memory. So unless your flush I'd fit a known good one from a breaker. At least if it's on your not going to overheat.

Let's get some sense here. Are we talking about the viscous fan? The large white one bolted to the water pump or the black plastic one in front of the radiator which is the Auxiliary fan for the aircon? The viscous turns constantly, it's filled with a sort of wax and spring thing that once it hits a set tempreture locks up and spins at engine speed and will roar. Below this temp it runs at lower speeds. They tend to fail on, roaring constantly. Get some card and use it to touch the fan, don't use your hand. The resistance of the cardboard should be sufficient to stop then fan rotation. If not it's probably locked up. If it's the electric fan, this one comes on under certain circumstances dictated by the ECU. Aircon on in traffic, then fan will come on. Overheating, on. Etc. It will also fail on if the temp signal is lost. Often this is the larger plug on water pipe dirty or failed connection, the ECU will then failsafe and fan on. The smaller blade connection next to it is for the dash gauge.

Stop asking on a car forum and book in with your GP. I've had more sports injuries like that than birthdays and not getting the right help will bigger you up. I damaged my ACL in 2003, let it rest a bit then just got on with it. Suffered 3 patella dislocations in 6 months after that. Still have issues with it now. My right shoulder is also pissed because I hit a tree at about 25mph and broke my collar bone, didn't bother with the hospital. I've got a boomerang for a collar bone now.

As far as I understand it yeah, it's basically a low voltage electrical version of a distributor, sort of. Powering up the coil packs when called for like the rotor arm in a dizzy. If the connections are poor you may experience poor running as the signal and supply are not as strong as they should be to the PTU or Coils, depending on the side that's dirty. Ultimately and mine did this last winter, you can loose a cylinder or complete loss of spark if the connections are poor. Very similar to when the distributor in an old car gets all mucky or wet.

No idea why that's the case, it's just a box of relays that sends power to each coil pack. The ECU decides the firing time via the CAS. They are sometimes called ignition chips. Notice there's 4 cables coming in and six out.

I think you will find that's not quite right Ali, that is the function of the coil. Each cylinder has its own coil, as apposed to the old style single coil and HT leads which is less efficient.

I don't know your mind, financial situation or time constraint and I don't think it's my business but for me I can't have that much going on to have too of the damn things. With the parts on the black one you could make the blue one a beast and sell the unused parts and actually end up with one nice car and cash in your pocket. The choice as they say though is yours.

Which would be a shame imo, I like the symmetry that is suggested by the Perspex strip rather than the square off line left she it's deleted, looks incomplete to me.

Nothing like a bit of consistency then ey :lol:

What a winner.