Lexx

CZP sell remanufactured ones using StopTech parts for the rebuild. Not a cheap way to do it though. But you would be sure of no corrosion or pitting on the cylinder bore or the pistons. Id say simplest way is your plan B. Get a rebuild kit from Bigg Red and refurb yourself. Can get new pistons and liners too iirc. Though you can obv send them to someone to professionally rebuild them too.

2022 will be the earliest I'll be willing to show my new one in public. Far too much work to do. I don't do Facebook, so don't know if you asked for volunteers there?

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-jdm-rhd-steering-lock-w-key-assembly-mt-t-top-slicktop-892-993-z32-d8700-54j00-universal_p_18184.php Looking at the above barrel, which I hope to buy soon, I would say you're right Lee. Once I'm home from sea I'm going to pull my ignition, see if it looks like the above, buy it if it does. Then pull all my locks and get them re-keyed to match the new ignition cylinder.

Go put a lottery ticket on!

My Slicktop was a converted manual. So I assumed the push to release button was just standard as it's what I was used to. Lol. Oops.

Ah so that's what it's for. Right. I should have just googled that. Lol. Time to strip out the cowlings and see if the design looks the same as the CZP one. Although I could always see if anyone is selling a full lock set from a breaker.

Discovered today that the ignition barrel on the Zed is goosed. Key can be removed at any position etc. CZP sell a JDM one, but states for Manual only. My car is an ex auto, converted to a manual a number of years ago. I don't know how the conversion is done, so wondering if the manual lock barrel would work?

Things I've added to the to do list today - 12. Remove rear subframe and remove the locking collars, and replace bushes. Hate those collars. Make the ride so harsh. 13. Replace the Japspeed exhaust for something less drainpipe like. I want a B&B, but will likely end up getting custom as cheaper. 14. New gaitors needed, and steering wheel needs recovering. 15. Find out why the key won't open the boot. Fix the central locking. Might have to replace the full set of locks and ignition barrel as the key comes out at position 1. 16. New boot struts. Got hit twice today whilst trying to see in the wheel well - which is covered in cheap ass dynomat so can't see what condition it's in. Something else to do. I'm back off to the boat soon, so will be a while before I get chance to look into any of this. Once I start I'll create one of those member journals.

Yep. Been through a couple of owners since Baz

Oh. And replace the short shifter with an OEM unit. Will do a trade if any member wants a straight swap.

So then. After a 380 mile round trip with a car transporter (which inconveniently blew its turbo 200 miles from home) I finally made it back home with todays purchase. Just about everyone knows this car, even the Rozzers in Lithuania probably know it. So I'll not do much waffling about the cars history. Other than to say it's a 99 spec NA and I envisage some pain in my future. Now where to start.... Well it'll have to be with rust. So first on my list is to get the interior trim out and see what is to be seen. And then see if I can get a boroscope into the sills and see how bad they are. Other things to investigate/sort (if anyone has anything to check for each item please comment. 1. Oil pressure gauge barely shows any movement no matter temp of engine or engine load. Can't remember if that's normal. 2. Temp gauge flickers into the cold end of the scale if accelerating hard 3. Dash lights (back lights) inoperative 4. Driver window goes down fine but then takes an age to go up whilst clicking as it does. Passenger window is marked and needs replacing. 5. Intermittently whining from a wheel (suspect a caliper is sticky) 6. Did I mention rust? Rear of rear wheel arches need some attention. 7. Strip out all suspension. Media blast, paint, replace bushes. Install new drop links. 8. Whilst all that's off remove the manky underseal from the chassis. Clean up everything. Paint with POR15. 8.5. Pull radiator and see what the condition of the lower support is like. Weld as required same time as 9 below. 9. Get the replacement sill panels from Luke, take to a welder, get the sills made good and anything else that needs metalwork. 10. Full spray - bonnet doesn't currently match. Various scratches and stone chips to sort. 11. New dipped headlight bulbs. Current ones seem at the 6000k end of the spectrum and much too blue for my liking. Will try and get some 4600k to replace. This list is going to grow as I've only done 20 miles on the car so far.

You could give JM Imports a call, they're based in Northumberland. Formerly Cramlington, but I think they just moved. Although still in the area. I "think" their hourly rate is £50-60. But I can't 100% remember.

Speedo convertors with poor shielding cause this too. My Slicktop used to randomly suffer power steering dropout. I tried 2 different convertors - the one in a thicker box meant less drop outs than the pressed/sealed small one. Not saying this is the issue here, but as said above it's worth a consideration.

Thanks for that Andrew. Very informative.

Fair point, well made.

I know it's a "how long is a piece of string" question, but I'm wondering if anyone who has had the work done recently has a ball park figure on the cost of inner and outer sill replacement (rear end). The car I'm considering defo has rust on the outer, so I will assume there's a chunk of the inner needs work too. I can cut and prep myself, but my mig welding ability isn't up to welding in new parts. Any price indicators greatly appreciated.

I ditched FB a few years back mate, and I'm loathe to return to it. Hopefully the guy will get back to me today or tomorrow.

Car seems to have good club history. Though no info on it for the past few years. Will wait to see if he gets back to me via eBay. I'm keen to see what the surface corrosion is that he (and the past 2 MOTs) mention. I don't really have the time to drive to Brum to find out its a lemon. Need to get as many pics and info as possible before committing to any kind of trip.

Cheers Gaz. I'll have a mooch through that thread.

Hiya folks. Yeah, so it's been a while. I'm the standard "should never have sold the car" ex owner. But then I say that about most the cars I've had. Anyway. Does anyone know anything about this car: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184379531034 I've messaged the seller about it, but heard nothing back. I think it might be one that Gazwoz imported 2 or 3 years ago? But without a reg number to check it's history I'm no sure. Thanks. Lexx

If any of you are around the museum on the Saturday 15th then swing by Millennium Place as 350z-uk are having our 10th anniversary (of the club) event. It's be good to see some old faces.

I didn't read between the lines when chatting this morning and I never realised you were thinking of selling! If you need to put her storage for a while then it's possible you could put her in my garage FOC (Well, maybe a few bottles of beer). If you think that's an option I can speak to the wife. I might even have a 300zx car cover somewhere in the loft.

Since you quoted me, I just wanted to clarify what I was referring to in the post you quoted. the 300zx must still HAVE an emissions test. But it only has to have the BET (basic emissions test) which is conducted at idle. The OP's car has failed as his CO emissions are too high. The BET max level for CO is 3.5%. Most zeds would pass this easily (mine passed it comfortably when it had de-cats fitted). I'm going to sound a little harsh here - but please ensure you know what you are talking about before passing on information. It could have been very embarrassing for the OP if he had shown up at the MOT testers shouting what you had told him whilst all the time he was incorrect. Again, sorry if that sounds harsh.

If you're out of touch, have a ganders at http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk. Loads of good information, and their prices are reasonable too. I tend to purchase most of my cleaning stuff from there, or Envy Detailing.

Dodo Juice Supernatural is hard to beat for price/result/ease of application. Poorboys Nattys liquid blue is also a good shout.