Lexx

Looks good Andrew. I didn't get chance to finish mine before heading back to the boat. But when I get back in 3 weeks I'll be able to do the accelerator and fit a really good dead pedal that a member kindly supplied. Though my carpet is in worse condition than yours!

Got a new one from JP car parts so I assume they are still available in Japan. @AndrewG Thanks for all that info Andrew. Very helpful and I'll use it do tackle mine tomorrow.

Ta for that Gaz. I moved on to replacing the last of the locks (passenger door and glove box), but will look at that pedal tomorrow. I'm covered in that black butyl crap they put on the doors to hold the plastic in place. Argh. Hoping to get the OEM airbox fitted tomorrow - anyone any idea of bolt size? The parts catalogue is of no help. The 2nd hand box I got didn't come with the bolts, so I'm going to put something temporary in place

Thanks for that Andrew. I guessed it was to do with the plastic Bush, but can't get any angle or purchase on it to push/pull it out. I'll try again this afternoon, after that I'll commit to take the whole thing out if I haven't succeeded.

Momo pedals removed fully this morning. The brake and clutch rubbers are now on (what a fart on), now I need to figure out how the accelerator pedal pad itself comes off. I have a new one to replace it, but for the life of me I can't see how to get the other one off in situ without removing the entire pedal assembly. Any pointers? Oh. And anyone got a foot rest in excellent condition they want to sell?

Car has been in the UK since 2002. Only spent 3 and bit years in Japan. Me and Ian G have been comparing pics and we're both in about the same condition for the same year of car.

Had a couple of hours on the Zed today. Got the back seat out and a scope into the sills. They're nowhere near as bad as I feared. The rot seems to be kept at the rear sill return and not spread further fwd than that which is a relief. Caused by the usual culprit of the targa drain clogging up. Will look at getting it booked in to get the sill work done before I start stripping the suspension off.

Driver door lock changed. Did not enjoy that job at all. Discovered that power window amp is likely reason for Windows not raising correctly. The entire card was pulled out of its housing.

There's a special place in hell reserved for the person who fitted these momo pedals. Managed to get 2 of them removed. But struggling to get at the nyloc nut that's been fitted to the back of the 2 bolts holding the accelerator pedal on. Started to drill one of them out, but ran out of time today. Will continue tomorrow. All this is just work to put off getting the car in the air and seeing how bad the underside is! Eeeek

Got the clocks workings today. Not sure I'm convinced by the red they are so may look at changing that. For those wondering, it was a loose wire in the dimmer Loom plug. Also got the new boot lock in

Could you ping me a PM with what costs you paid for the whole lot please? I'm going to be weighing up the various options to replace all mine shortly. Ta.

I've got an FSM. Found the pages for the Timer control unit diagnostic. EL81.

Small update. Got the new ignition barrel in and secured. All the trim refitted. Had to order a new AC pod as the current one is goosed. Feels like I'm re doing all the same bit I did on my last one. Bit of a pain but is what it is. Did some investigation into the non working dash lighting. Need to pull out the multimeter and check the dimmer switch itself, though I suspect the likely culprit is the timer control unit. Will pull that and inspect the soldering at the weekend. New issue to add - extremely grumbly power steering pump. Need to check it is the power steering and not the alternator before committing to buying a rebuild kit and new bearing.

https://nissan.epc-data.com/fairlady_z/gz32/6044-vg30d/trans/443/36451/ For a later car, but if you check your chassis number and then go to the above section (443). Available from CZP. https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-e-brake-cable-set-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32-36530_p_585.php Could try adjusting the cable and the shoes before plumbing for new gear though. Wheel off, screwdriver in through the disc hole, and rotate the cog

Many folk own a zed as a 2nd or 3rd car. As Stephen says above, with things as they are currently many people may simply need the money or no longer be able to justify the cost of ownership. There is a silver lining though - the cars are being sold rather than being broken for spares. Someone else gets to enjoy (or regret! ) ownership rather than bits being sold of and the rest ending up at a scrappy or landfill.

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/topic/158315-my-300zx/?tab=comments#comment-1734640

Can you still get the titanium keys?

Yeah. I replaced them both on my last Zed.

So I've been around the Zed scene in one model or another for almost 15 years now. Last owned was a 1995 Slicktop which I bought on a bit of a whim. Unfortunately it was a terrible time to own a project due to have new born twins when I bought it, doing a huge house extension shortly after, and then having another set of twins. Basically didn't have the time to dedicate to it so ended up selling. A number of years later, no more wiser, and a bit of a tragedy later and I ended up buying another Z32. Most people here will know this car, and know it's had a hard life. Over 15 years in the UK, never undersealed, and a sketchy service history for the past 5 or so. Just about every panel is a different shade of midnight purple. After discovering that the ignition barrel had been rodgered and that a screwdriver could start the car it was time to correct that before everything else. So a full lock and key set was ordered from Japan. Ignition now fitted. Door locks to follow. List of items to do (in no particular order) : 1. Purchase and replace heater pod - Done 2. Replace window upper sliders - bought but not yet fitted. 3. Source OEM airbox to replace the awful cone filter. - Done 4. Raise suspension up to a sensible height. (need to buy a MeisterR spanner) - Done 5. Fit better size spacers for the wheels - Done 6. Replace front drop links - Done 7. Remove all suspension, soda blast, paint, refit. DONE REAR. Part done front 8. Rear subframe to come off. Soda blasted. Paint. New bushes. DONE 9. Rear diff oil replaced, new gasket, paint. - Done 10. Replace fuel lines front to back. 11. Clean, treat, paint entire underside 12. Sill replacement both sides (eeeek) (recent investigation suggests only rear returns will need doing. Here's hoping). - Done 13. Repair to front radiator mount (lower) - Done 14. 120k full service to complete. Probably Powerzed, but it's a heck of a journey for me. Will see. - Done 15. Fix clocks ambient lighting. - Done 16. Replace HID bulbs with 4300k - Done 17. Replace indicator bulbs with none chromed ones. DONE 18. Replace/refurb boot struts 19. Full respray. 20. Rear bumper mount metal work repair. - Done 21. Remove crappy dynomat from boot floor and investigate condition 22. Make new boot plywood cover sheets - Done 23. Repair partial shelf blind 24. Remove rear tints 25. New Cats 26. New exhausts (double twins)

Got back from sea yesterday. Greeted with a parcel from JP carparts. I had great plans to spend the next 3 weeks building a car port and then working through a multitude of the issues and end up with all the suspension off ready to take to work for shot blasting. Fate had other plans however. My daughters class bubble has had a Covid case so are now in isolation for 2 weeks. So whilst my wife works I've got the 2 girls to looks after. However I did manage to get a few hours this morning to get the essential part done of getting a new ignition barrel installed that needs a key to start rather than a lollipop stick. Pain in the ass of a job, and uncovered more issues than I solved I think (mostly related to old plastics). Anyway. Brand new ignition installed and hooked up. All works as it should including the steering lock and key release. Just doors, glove, boot locks to change when I get chance. Now to buy 2 new pod backs to replace the 2 knackered ones mine was hiding. Need to remove the cluster soon to figure out why none of the dash illumination is working. All the pods light up as expected, but the back lights and the ignition ring light are all duff (was like it when I bought it, so not something I buggered up today.

Infiniti G37 most likely.

I'm pleased they're sticking with non electric, RWD, manual etc. But for me this car just looks too much like a rehash of a 370z. Nothing about it screams "next gen sports car". Christ, even the engine in it is going to be old by the time it goes into production. It'll be a rare sight on these shores anyway since they ain't selling it in Europe. Though I suppose someone might be willing to do a deal with Nissan like Litchfield did for the R34 back in the day and import them semi officially in small numbers.

One last query on this. Will a Ignition barrel from a Manual fit in a original AT car that has been converted to MT. I can get a full lock kit (ignition/doors/boot and keys) new from Nissan. But don't know whether I need the AT (car built as an auto) or the MT (car is converted). If everything bar the "park lock" is the same then a MT set should fit fine I would guess?

Are the physical shape and connections the same? (Loom plug aside). I'm 300 miles from my car so can't check before I go order the new barrel from CZP.

Further to the above (and without wanting to start a new topic) does anyone know if there were changes to the ignition barrel throughout the model years?