AndrewG

Oh and you will be missing the closed cell foam gasket which goes around the third brake light area which you will need to seal the area. You can buy the stuff in self adheasive 6mm sheets and cut to shape.

There isn't a relay in the indicator circuit. Do you mean the flasher unit?

So you are keeping them after all?

It is very important to prevent water ingress between the spoiler and the tailgate. Nissan used adhesive strips to provide seals which over time fail to remain watertight and allow water ingress which damages the spoiler with corrosion to the metal parts and subsequent rot to the foam. To provide a permanent water tight seal, at a minimum bond the spoiler (Sikaflex or similar) to the tailgate along the inside of the leading edge (where the adhesive strips would have gone) and along the bottom edge of the "wings" as in the red line below.

Do you know how to fit it to ensure longevity?

One of these!

Does this help?

If you mean this one then yes Blue.

For the painted parts of the bay I've used a general purpose degreaser such as AG's Engine & Machine Cleaner worked in with various brushes and cleaned off with microfibre cloths (sometimes wrapped around a stick to get to the awkward places). For the electrical connectors I've disconnected each one and used Pagid brake cleaner aerosol blasted on and worked around with a stiff small bristle brush. Whilst doing this I've placed rags underneath to catch the gunk coming off. I also use the same approach for the numerous small components in the engine bay. For the plenum I've used Frost's Ali Clean - Aluminium Castings Cleaner which is specifically designed for castings that can't be polished as the blackening which results discolours the semi porous surface. Worked on with a brush and then carefully washed off with water. The plenum will come up bright and clean. To keep dust to a minimum on surfaces that are difficult to reach after cleaning I use an air compressor and airline.

Collected a large and surprisingly heavy box from Parcelforce today together with a rather substantial payment to HMRC. Contents include AshSpec Massive SMICs which as their name suggests are indeed MASSIVE! together with AshSpec 2.5" IC and planar kits together with associated bits and pieces. I'll post up pics when I've worked out which pipe goes with which but in the meantime there are a lot of them as you can see! Compared to the stock pipework this stuff looks MUCH larger. I've pretty much got everthing now for the "bolt on" engine upgrade for Jimmer to put together before the full bodywork respray later in the year.

Have you tried jp-carparts.com in Japan? Part Code 25340XA Part# 25551-47P00 http://jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=132&cartype=18&fig=251&page=3

Try Simon he had one fitted but has now gone non airbag OEM steering wheel so may be available.

Indeed I did! You can see how in my post here for my first attempt: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170960 The whole system is now JL Audio gear.

We need to get you sailing Joel!

I wonder if the problem (with these new tyres) is lack of running in to remove lubricant left from the manufacturing and this has caused the tyres to slip and overheat on the dyno roller and ~360 HP. During the manufacturing process, tyres are treated with a lubricant to prevent them from sticking to their moulds during the curing stage. When brand new tyres are fitted to a car this lubricant is still present and can make the tyres slippery until it is worn away from normal driving over a number of miles.

Thanks for the picture Gary. Build date July '93 and number 1487 of 1548 UK specs.

That was very generous of you! Yes he did complete the conversion. The last I heard was that he blew the engine drag racing a Lamborghini in the King's road (as you do).

Nice to see that Mark Hanley's (Topless) blue convertible is still around: http://r.ebay.com/9uoZdV The photo below was taken in 2003 when Mark owned it and the white one. He sold on the blue and kept the white for his TT conversion.

There is a small pipe which drains condensed water from the a/c evaporator (inside the cabin) to underneath the car near the gearbox n/s. It normally only drips water when the a/c is actually working. Is that the pipe you are referring to? Coolant can be lost from the many rubber pipes (some small and difficult to see) that carry coolant water. What is the rate of water loss? Have you checked around the engine and radiator for signs of water loss and/or coolant staining? Is the radiator cap secure and the overflow pipe near the cap connected? There are two rubber pipes that run from the back of the engine via the firewall into the cabin for the heater. Are they good? Are the carpets wet in the footwell(s)? When the engine is running are you getting white smoke from the exhaust?

It was with a 30Kgs max load.

Do you feel using 20W60 you might be compromising longevity of the other lubricated surfaces which are in stock spec such as small end bearings, piston, valves, camshafts, turbos etc? Now that you have had your car beautifully resprayed will you still be hammering your car as much on the track?

The other one is the Overdrive OFF light (for automatics).

Series II car first registered in April 1994 so one of the last of the UK specs. Would love to know the VIN if any one has a look at the car. HICAS warning light is on.

Here is another view of the same car which shows off the full set of AP Racing BBKs.