AndrewG

You mean spark plug? Running rich on the cylinder it came out of which points to an ignition problem. The problem would have moved as the plug is now so fouled.

For those that like Z32 memorabilia this is definitely one for the collection. I bought my copy many years ago from a Japanese bookseller in London which was fun as not unreasonably everything was in Kanji!

Did your read the contents of the link?

Are you sure that is correct? https://www.gov.uk/taking-vehicles-out-of-uk "Keep the rest of your V5C registration certificate - you might need this to register your vehicle abroad."

If the car is permanently exported the owner fills in the V5C/4 and returns that to the DVLA. The rest of the V5C is passed onto the new owner. The reverse of the V5C/4 states: "Keep sections 1 to 8 of this certificate (the registration authorities of the country the vehicle is being exported to will need them).

Why don't you contact the DVLA here in the UK and explain what your problem is and see if they can help you? The car is shown as exported on their system. You know the name of the last owner in the UK which will match their records. Give the DVLA that name. You can supply them with a copy of the V5C/2 slip the details of which will match their records. You could also give them the VIN which uniquely identifies the car in your possession plus any documentaton which shows the car being imported legitimately into Denmark. Contact details of V5C related matters here: https://www.gov.uk/contact-the-dvla/y/vehicle-registration-and-v5c-certificates-log-books Top level: https://www.gov.uk/contact-the-dvla

I assume your car is Jspec? If you PM me the VIN I will lookup the details for it in Nissans' FAST database.

As far as the UK's DVLA are concerned the car has been exported and has an export marker on it's record. https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/

UK spec cars have dual MPH/KPH dials. A s/h gauge would do the job.

BTW - what is the paint you have used for the moustache?

Check the power window amplifier module (located behind door trim panel) for cracked solder joints: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1126623/Fixing-the-Power-Window-Amplifier--Relay.html

Given the cost of shipping and installing a new clutch I would have thought going straight for the Max in the first instance would be a better choice. Especially now that the MK2 version of the Max is now lighter in pedal pressure that my MK1 type and more stock like in feel. SZ's own description of the Street "This should be viewed as a OE replacement in most cases and will not hold much power" would put me off using it.

Welcomes to the Club Ryan! You can look up the factory build date etc of your UK spec with your VIN from the online resource : http://gtr-registry.com/en-300zx-z32-uk-europe.php

Exasperation over! Car looks lovely in the photo at Rabbid Tuning Nick.

Lovely jubbly!

Can't see the video Gary as I don't have a FB account!

Fuel pressure or fuel flow - no restrictions in the pipework for the new injector setup? Where are you measuring the pressure in the system?

A worthwhile modification, especially if you are running an upgraded clutch. https://specialtyz.com/shop/300zx-heavy-duty-clutch-fork-kit.html

I've been telling him that for ages Andy but he is still wearing these things...

I have the RPS Max Street clutch and RPS segmented flywheel. Both now supplied and manufactured by Speciality-Z in the US. Very progressive (no on/off). The clutch is very tough and I've not seen complaints (TT.net) with performance failing to meet specs published by Speciality-Z. There are several members in the Club who are also happily running this setup . https://specialtyz.com/shop/300zx/sz-sport-street-for-vg30dett-and-vq35s-239.html https://specialtyz.com/shop/300zx/sz-flywheel-vg30de-tt.html Have you checked the driveshaft's UJ's ?

One of life's pleasures Gary - driving with the targa's off on a cold dry day.

Depending on the part# of the clock you have the repair procedure to fix the common resistor problem which stops the clock working is slightly different as the PCB layout changed. The procedure published on TT.net is for 25820-30P00 clocks. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/clock/clock.html If you have a 25820-40P00 clock then the procedure published here is the one to follow: https://aus300zx.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/clock-repair.276856/

I take it that the roads down your way are clear of salt?

Well it's certainly eaten his cash! Great to see it back home Nick in all its splendor.

Who was the supplier in Japan Andy?