AndrewG

Thanks for all the time and effort you are putting into these these ongoing activities Lee. Much appreaciated!

A genuine used OEM cambelt with only 45 thousand miles on it. Carefully used whilst in service for the seven years it was on the car and professionally removed to avoid damage. Comes complete with an original Nissan plastic bag for safe storage with the correct part number affixed for peace of mind. The all important unused service stickers are included. No reasonable offer refused!

Best wishes on your Birthday Craig! [ATTACH=CONFIG]111600[/ATTACH]

The reason for differential bore calipers is succinctly described here in the SCC Project 300ZX: http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/project-car/9902scc-project-nissan-300zx-part-3/ "The pistons are all of different sizes, with the small pistons (which exert less force) at the leading edge of the brake pad, and the larger pistons at the trailing edge. This eliminates taper wear, a problem that all multi-piston calipers have. Taper wear happens because of the self-energizing action of the brake pads on a rotating rotor. The leading edge of the pad tends to get wedged by the rotor, thus receiving a higher per-unit load than the trailing edge. The pad starts to wear more at the leading edge, creating a wedge shape that makes the problem worse. By making the leading pistons smaller than the trailing pistons, more force is applied to the rear of the pad than the front. This does two things; it eliminates taper wear and it also improves braking by evenly distributing the braking pressure over the surface of the pads."

Very understanding I would say Andy judging by the quantity of parts on display!

Your post title says the car is a 1988 model 300ZX, that is Z31 model?

That's fine with me Nick.

25070-30p01

Yes - NGK PFR6B-11C.

Time to elimate the PTU from the equation. You can perfom a manual test on the PTU (it's in the FSM) but is rather involved and if there is a problem with it that's vibration and/or heat related you may not see it. See if you borrow a known good S1 PTU from member or from Jimmer.

What have you checked so far on the ignition system which fires that cylinder?

You mean spark plug? Running rich on the cylinder it came out of which points to an ignition problem. The problem would have moved as the plug is now so fouled.

For those that like Z32 memorabilia this is definitely one for the collection. I bought my copy many years ago from a Japanese bookseller in London which was fun as not unreasonably everything was in Kanji!

Did your read the contents of the link?

Are you sure that is correct? https://www.gov.uk/taking-vehicles-out-of-uk "Keep the rest of your V5C registration certificate - you might need this to register your vehicle abroad."

If the car is permanently exported the owner fills in the V5C/4 and returns that to the DVLA. The rest of the V5C is passed onto the new owner. The reverse of the V5C/4 states: "Keep sections 1 to 8 of this certificate (the registration authorities of the country the vehicle is being exported to will need them).

Why don't you contact the DVLA here in the UK and explain what your problem is and see if they can help you? The car is shown as exported on their system. You know the name of the last owner in the UK which will match their records. Give the DVLA that name. You can supply them with a copy of the V5C/2 slip the details of which will match their records. You could also give them the VIN which uniquely identifies the car in your possession plus any documentaton which shows the car being imported legitimately into Denmark. Contact details of V5C related matters here: https://www.gov.uk/contact-the-dvla/y/vehicle-registration-and-v5c-certificates-log-books Top level: https://www.gov.uk/contact-the-dvla

I assume your car is Jspec? If you PM me the VIN I will lookup the details for it in Nissans' FAST database.

As far as the UK's DVLA are concerned the car has been exported and has an export marker on it's record. https://vehicleenquiry.service.gov.uk/

UK spec cars have dual MPH/KPH dials. A s/h gauge would do the job.

BTW - what is the paint you have used for the moustache?

Check the power window amplifier module (located behind door trim panel) for cracked solder joints: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1126623/Fixing-the-Power-Window-Amplifier--Relay.html

Given the cost of shipping and installing a new clutch I would have thought going straight for the Max in the first instance would be a better choice. Especially now that the MK2 version of the Max is now lighter in pedal pressure that my MK1 type and more stock like in feel. SZ's own description of the Street "This should be viewed as a OE replacement in most cases and will not hold much power" would put me off using it.

Welcomes to the Club Ryan! You can look up the factory build date etc of your UK spec with your VIN from the online resource : http://gtr-registry.com/en-300zx-z32-uk-europe.php

Exasperation over! Car looks lovely in the photo at Rabbid Tuning Nick.