AndrewG

A bit beyond a fashion statment - take at their corporate website: http://www.k-sportracing.com/aboutus.htm and their videos for their R&D, manufacturing and QC: http://www.k-sportracing.com/video.htm Their BBKs are used extensively in competitive events all over the world with success. When it comes to replacing parts when worn - discs and pads can be replaced with AP Racing, Ferodo, Mintex, Pagid etc. Sure they are a cheaper option than say AP Racing and Brembo GT BBK's but they do the job nonetheless.

Akebono brakes are very heavy (if that bothers you). Why not consider the Ksport? They are available in the UK, cheaper and lighter. https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/649906/nissan/k-sport-front-big-brake-kit/ni12-356x32.html

Testing was done on both, with a Cd of 0.31 for NA's and 0.32 for spoilered TT's. I don't have a picture of a TT being tested (nor for that matter 2+2s).

For reference this picture shows a SWB during wind tunnel development - note the smooth airflow.

Very nice - well done! BTW your rear wheels need to be swapped side to side.

Best wishes on your Birthday Chris! P.S. Couldn't find you an Apache so I hope this is OK!

Have you checked the ignition relay (see diagram I posted above)? It supplies power to the Windows, Turn and HiCAS circuits. The ignition relay is located on the fuse/junction block behind the drivers footwell panel - see attachment: FOLDOUT.pdf You should also check for water damage to the fuse/junction block (from a split or disconnected targa drain pipe) which is a common source of electrical problems in that area.

You have got your ignition key in and turned to the accessory position? The diagrams in the attachment show the power supply routing to make things clearer. Some circuits work all the time (hazards for example) others require the key in and turned to work (for example windows and indicators operated by the stalk). el-10-11.pdf

Ooh, now that is interesting...

A potential issue with refitting HID's after a test may be with insurance companies and loss adjusters in the event of an accident. They will always look for ways to minimise their liability (pay out) of a claim. For example, if they consider that non standard lighting was a contributory factor in an accident at night time. It would be good to hear from someone in the car insurance business.

Superdooper!

What did the place who skimmed the discs have to say?

They are supposed to give you that "authentic" HID bluish tint to the light!

For the plenum I've used Frost's Ali Clean - Aluminium Castings Cleaner which is specifically designed for castings that can't be polished as the blackening which results discolours the semi porous surface. Worked on with a brush and then carefully washed off with water. The plenum will come up bright and clean. https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-ali-clean-alloy-aluminium-castings-cleaner.html

Do you mean plenum? It is not wise to use a pressure washer in the engine bay!

Are those the ones with the blue tint to the bulb's glass? Stock fit is clear glass 55W.

Did that come from the MOT tester?

*** Now Sold *** For sale one Kuruma Zeta Rear Spoiler which will require work to make it fit properly. The Kuruma is a fiberglass replica of the OEM '89 spec rear spoiler. https://conceptzperformance.com/kuruma-z-zeta-rear-wing-spoiler-nissan-300zx-z32-e-z32-kzw_p_805.php Purchased from CZP the "wings" sit about 3-5mm at their tips away from the tailgate (see pictures below) with the main body of the spoiler in its correct postition. The problem can be resolved by temporarily fixing the spoiler in place and using plastic filler blended into the spoiler's wings to fill the gaps. Remove the spoiler, sand and refix until the spoiler forms a perfect fit. Sellotape (or similar) fixed to the tailgate following the wings profile will prevent the filler sticking to the tailgate as it goes off and form a release film. Despite the above issue the rest of the spoiler is well made and particularily smooth for a fiberglass replica. The spoiler will need to be collected or I can bring it to a Club meet. £100 o.n.o.

Jspec in Japan:

Welcome to the Club Matt! Look forward to seeing the car at some point.

Unfortunately I would say that is a bit more than light front end damage. The whole of the front chassis structure has been moved backwards towards the engine. That's why the fan cowl has shattered. I've arrowed some of the other telltale signs. Shame as it otherwise looks in good condition and is a manual.

Sold for $46,500.

$31,750 with 8 hours to go.