AndrewG

Try Simon he had one fitted but has now gone non airbag OEM steering wheel so may be available.

Indeed I did! You can see how in my post here for my first attempt: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?170960 The whole system is now JL Audio gear.

We need to get you sailing Joel!

I wonder if the problem (with these new tyres) is lack of running in to remove lubricant left from the manufacturing and this has caused the tyres to slip and overheat on the dyno roller and ~360 HP. During the manufacturing process, tyres are treated with a lubricant to prevent them from sticking to their moulds during the curing stage. When brand new tyres are fitted to a car this lubricant is still present and can make the tyres slippery until it is worn away from normal driving over a number of miles.

Thanks for the picture Gary. Build date July '93 and number 1487 of 1548 UK specs.

That was very generous of you! Yes he did complete the conversion. The last I heard was that he blew the engine drag racing a Lamborghini in the King's road (as you do).

Nice to see that Mark Hanley's (Topless) blue convertible is still around: http://r.ebay.com/9uoZdV The photo below was taken in 2003 when Mark owned it and the white one. He sold on the blue and kept the white for his TT conversion.

There is a small pipe which drains condensed water from the a/c evaporator (inside the cabin) to underneath the car near the gearbox n/s. It normally only drips water when the a/c is actually working. Is that the pipe you are referring to? Coolant can be lost from the many rubber pipes (some small and difficult to see) that carry coolant water. What is the rate of water loss? Have you checked around the engine and radiator for signs of water loss and/or coolant staining? Is the radiator cap secure and the overflow pipe near the cap connected? There are two rubber pipes that run from the back of the engine via the firewall into the cabin for the heater. Are they good? Are the carpets wet in the footwell(s)? When the engine is running are you getting white smoke from the exhaust?

It was with a 30Kgs max load.

Do you feel using 20W60 you might be compromising longevity of the other lubricated surfaces which are in stock spec such as small end bearings, piston, valves, camshafts, turbos etc? Now that you have had your car beautifully resprayed will you still be hammering your car as much on the track?

The other one is the Overdrive OFF light (for automatics).

Series II car first registered in April 1994 so one of the last of the UK specs. Would love to know the VIN if any one has a look at the car. HICAS warning light is on.

Here is another view of the same car which shows off the full set of AP Racing BBKs.

Jspec in Japan:

Best wishes on your Birthday Simon!

I see what you did there Pete!

Damm - I've just spilt my coffee!

Aren't they all?

How old is the fuel in the tank? You might also check that the fuel filter is not blocked. This is the FSM diagnostics for engine stalling when hot: EC-87-88.pdf

Best wishes on your Birthday Ali!

Are you thinking of this? http://www.ess-racing.com/ BTW - Fuel economy is not usually considered important when owning a Z32!

Simon recovered the top parts and posted about it starting here: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?186892-4-what-am-I-doing-Little-build-thread!&p=1957961&viewfull=1#post1957961

Yes, it gives you an approximation of what is required. Update - the Equip's current inner barrel will move in by 1.1". The new outer barrel width will be 3.09" plus the Equip's current outer barrel width. Yes, you will need the dimensions of the barrels as the centre of the wheel where wheel offset is measured from is not necessarily the same as the offset of the spokes and barrels joint relative to it (as I have arrowed below). There is another calculator I have found which works for split rims using barrel dimensions. I have not played around with it much but it should help you get closer to what you need: http://stu.taylor-net.co.uk/tools/offset