AndrewG

You've taken Z32 TB's out to 56mm? Have you reseated the bearings?

Just for you Nick!

True, but I would have also thought that any engine mapper worth their salt would check the timing as part of a pre dyno inspection.

You can also damage the bearings through detonation and/or pre-ignition. I found this a useful read: http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html

Two more examples up for auction - will be interesting to see what they go for: https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/fl19/fort-lauderdale/lots/r0063-1991-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo/733381 https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/fl19/fort-lauderdale/lots/r0064-1990-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo/733385

With a MAP sensor yes. Added - Although the AEM Series 1 is "plug and play" the ConZult s/w I referred to probably won't work with it.

What he says ^^^ You can spend your money better elsewhere.

As above re compression and leak down testing next to do. A ConZult test to see if the ECU has any error codes and that everything is setup correctly and sensors working properly would be good practice. At some point it would also be a good idea to change the HKS BOVs back to stock recircs: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2421113/I-do-not-recommend-blow-off-valves-on-the-Z.html

Welcome to the Club Matt and thank you for your support!

It does look odd Marc. I would expect it to be closer to the chassis. This is your Blue convertible? If so, IanL has the same car and could compare the routing with his. You could PM him to ask. However, provided the line is not leaking then it wouldn't make a difference to your excessive pedal travel. Has the level of brake fluid in the reservoir fallen in normal use? When you checked for leaks did you look to see that there is no fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder (look up inside the footwell)? This would point to a failing master cylinder. Have you looked for brake fluid dripping onto the ground underneath the car - a damaged brake line or joint? Check that the rubber lines which run from the hardlines to each caliper are not ballooning when pedal pressure is applied. You will need two people to do this check. Check that the pistons in the calipers are free and not seized up. Pads in good condition and again free to move. The bleed nipples for the calipers are at the top? It is not unknown for the calipers to be swapped over L to R which makes it impossible for the calipers to be bleed free of air.

He's well beyong that stage!

Welcome to the Club Kevin and thank you for your support! I've always wanted to do a "Grand Tour" in the 300ZX in Switzerland - it is such a beautiful country. Look forward to seeing pictures of your car.

All Z32's were produced in Japan at the Nissan Shatai factory. The exact numbers produced is unclear as their are discrepancies in Nissan's FAST parts database which should hold the details of every Z32 made. For example, I have come across incomplete FAST records (VIN allocated and date built but no other spec details) and Z32s with a complete VIN plate on the car but the corresponding record in the FAST database incomplete. However, these discrepancies seem to be few and far between (as might be expected from Japanese fastidiousness). When the full FAST Z32 database records are extracted for the Japanese domestic market (work in progress by Mark at the GTR-Registry.com) we will probably have the best picture of the numbers of cars produced for sale across all the markets Z32s was sold into. http://gtr-registry.com/en-nissan-300zx-z32.php

From your experience Seb, how much higher?

Looking good Russ! At least you still have the centre cap that was removed from the wheel.

Excellent! Looking forward to the pictures Mark.

Very Army! I see that BDE are comming out with their own crank trigger setup: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2632565/VG-Crank-Trigger---coming-soon-from-BDE.html Will be interesting to see how it compares with the Ross setup you have.

Take a look at the brake master cylinder - cars without ABS have three hydraulic lines and ABS cars have two hydraulic hardlines connected to it. You can also check by looking behind the body trim behind drivers side seat - there will be an ABS actuator if the car has ABS. There will be an "Anti-Lock" light on the dash (which comes on briefly when the car is started) and normally an ABS sticker on the brake booster for cars with fitted with ABS. Post a picture of the pipe.

If your car is an NA and not fitted with ABS then you won't have that block as it is part of the ABS pipework. For a car without ABS you will only have one pipe coming through to the wing from the master cylinder. The diagram below shows the lines and blocks: http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/er_z32/1993_3/type_1/brake/brake_piping_and_control/illustration_1/ (parts diagram for TT with ABS item 22) Have you fully bleed the brakes to remove any air in the system?

Absolutely Chris - it will be a pleasure!

Much better! How's the rear spoiler paint match?

Well done Simon! I'll buy a copy for the collection tomorrrow.

I think what you think.

Best wishes on your Birthday Richard!