AndrewG

Take the rear speaker cover off (they pull up and off). If you have a black plastic speaker enclosure then they are Bose. Bose speakers were always fitted front and rear from the factory.

Stay with stock - they work fine.

It's part of the cap:

Yes, the system is pressurised and if working (no other leaks) behaves as in the video above.

This little video explains the recovery system: [video=youtube_share;tTEmfMaKsB4]

As a rule of thumb the length of thread engagement in a steel nut should be equal to or greater than one full diameter of the bolt and be of comparable strength. In this case the studs are 12mm in diameter, the thread engagement needs to be a minimum of 12mm.

I never have to top up my Koyo aftermarket radiator.

Great to see the correct technique using Torque plates for the cylinder bores.

In his defense My Lord - it was late, his wife had gone to bed and he had a couple of drinks. [ATTACH=CONFIG]115839[/ATTACH]

Exact diameter please! The spigot ring will not support the wheel with a flat 5mm spacer.

What is the diameter of the new wheels centre bore?

You can reprofile a cam by removing material from the existing lobs but it can increase the stress levels and make it more difficult for the followers to keep in contact with the profile especially at high revs. Starting with a blank or building up the lobs can give a new profile with lower stress and easier to follow at high revs.

With the mods you are undertaking "madificstion" seems entirely appropriate!

Yes, I've seen pretty much the same process applied to crankshaft big ends to increase the stroke.

I wonder if they are welding material onto the lobs which are then ground to the new profiles?

Come on Nick keep up! http://epracing.net/products-page/valve-train-components/vg30dett/

Why do EPR want your core camshafts?

What cams were you hoping to use?

Best wishes on your Birthday Howard and Gary!

With all due respect NOT having a working oil pressure gauge was a big mistake, particularly with a newly rebuilt engine. Any low pressure oil readings would have been picked up at the onset and could have saved the engine from serious damage. Why was the engine rebuilt in the first place? What components were damaged and/or replaced? Have you inspected the other bearings for any onset of damage or unusual wear? This could help narrow down the problem. It may be that one bearing let go first with the others on their way. As to the failure of an individual bearing this could be down to a single factor or combination thereof. This link provides a pretty comprehensive list: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/769063/Online-infogtgtgtgt.html

Assuming your radiator cap is working properly, any excess water will be allowed to escape into the overflow reservoir and be drawn back in when the car cools down. You can fill the radiator up to the filler cap. In the first instance, check that the overflow pipe is connected to the radiator (by the filler cap) and the other end is connected to the overflow tank. You can see if the overflow tank has water in by checking the dipstick (by the n/s front wing).

Much better Chris - so much more courteous!

Looks like you've had Gromit in there too Tom!

The diagrams in the link below show the 90-94 and 95 on harness changes: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1045147/-Rehosted-images-.html You can see which fusable links need to be in place for the spark and ignition circuits to get their power. The Pin 58 to Pin 45 change was only for the injectors.

Full brake flush today from ATE Super Blue (no longer available) to ATE TYP200 brake fluid (same DOT4 spec but not blue). The colour change from blue to amber made things a lot easier in knowing when the old brake fluid was completely flushed out. 10 bleed nipples and 1.5 liters later the job was done. The blue tube has a one way valve on the end and the reservoir is clamped to the brake disc with a magnet.