Everything posted by AndrewG
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A lot of work has gone into that car! The pic links seem to be broken. Are there pictures elsewhere?
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Been a long time coming Richard, but worth the wait!
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I have a spare Blue and Brown relays if required.
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This is the Japanese version: https://nissan.epc-data.com/fairlady_z/gcz32/6033-vg30dtt/electric/252/?d1=8908 The ACC and Rear defogger relays look to be the standard (for a Z32) Blue SPST and Brown DPST relays respectively.
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If you decide to replace the crossmember, these are the experiences of one of our members: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?184923-Radiator-cross-member-replacement-day-one These are the pages from the 300ZX body repair manual: 300ZX Body Repair Manual pages 49-50.pdfDo you mean the part arrowed?
And a much more favourable cost of ownership!Here (scroll down to calculator): https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.htmlBooked in! Very much looking forward to the weekend.Well it does say "out of tank" on the box, so not such an odd question! 22A using automotive 12awg (nominal 3mm²) over 4m will give you a voltage drop of 1V. Nominal rated max load for 3.0mm² is ~27.5A.How far will the pump be from the battery?That's great news Russ - watching you nursing your car back to health has been inspiring. Onwards and upwards!Looking forward to the photos of your work Iain - well done!You've taken Z32 TB's out to 56mm? Have you reseated the bearings?Just for you Nick!
True, but I would have also thought that any engine mapper worth their salt would check the timing as part of a pre dyno inspection.You can also damage the bearings through detonation and/or pre-ignition. I found this a useful read: http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.htmlTwo more examples up for auction - will be interesting to see what they go for: https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/fl19/fort-lauderdale/lots/r0063-1991-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo/733381 https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/fl19/fort-lauderdale/lots/r0064-1990-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo/733385With a MAP sensor yes. Added - Although the AEM Series 1 is "plug and play" the ConZult s/w I referred to probably won't work with it.What he says ^^^ You can spend your money better elsewhere.As above re compression and leak down testing next to do. A ConZult test to see if the ECU has any error codes and that everything is setup correctly and sensors working properly would be good practice. At some point it would also be a good idea to change the HKS BOVs back to stock recircs: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2421113/I-do-not-recommend-blow-off-valves-on-the-Z.htmlWelcome to the Club Matt and thank you for your support!It does look odd Marc. I would expect it to be closer to the chassis. This is your Blue convertible? If so, IanL has the same car and could compare the routing with his. You could PM him to ask. However, provided the line is not leaking then it wouldn't make a difference to your excessive pedal travel. Has the level of brake fluid in the reservoir fallen in normal use? When you checked for leaks did you look to see that there is no fluid leaking from the back of the master cylinder (look up inside the footwell)? This would point to a failing master cylinder. Have you looked for brake fluid dripping onto the ground underneath the car - a damaged brake line or joint? Check that the rubber lines which run from the hardlines to each caliper are not ballooning when pedal pressure is applied. You will need two people to do this check. Check that the pistons in the calipers are free and not seized up. Pads in good condition and again free to move. The bleed nipples for the calipers are at the top? It is not unknown for the calipers to be swapped over L to R which makes it impossible for the calipers to be bleed free of air.He's well beyong that stage!
