jimmer

Sorry to hear your going Mike.If you should decide to break it,first dibs on those sexy tubs :D.God your gonna hate me for that.

Any ford transit from 2000 onwards has a jump point under the bonnet.Reckon you can find someone breaking one of those easy Dave.If you need any advice on wiring,have a word with Dazzer.Hes an auto sparky.

Stock pistons iirc are around £75 each and the rings are extra.Get the wisecos mate.use them in all my builds and rate them highly.

If the clutch is biting on the floor and dragging then it probaly still has air in the system.Try pumping the pedal several times then engaging the clutch and seeing if it goes in easier.if it does then your system still needs bleeding.The clutch pedal is assisted by a servo like the brakes.it should loosen up if the engines running.

^^^^^^^^^.wot he said.just done my testers course and its a non testable item.like propshaft u/js believe it or not.

According to old posts they can be bought at garden centers as the same bulbs are used in pond lights are something similar.

Yes it should read like the other one at idle.As well as checking for voltage check the shielding on the wire isnt touching the inner core.The outer core is earthed.Using the meter on continuity,connect one probe to the outer core and one to the inner with the sensor unplugged.if it beeps you have a short.I had this on my zed and the ecu didnt receive the reading.Even though the de fault for an 02 sensor signal not being received is for the car to run rich it would still run fine.Mine never suffered running wise it just drank fuel.

your ecu wiring looks as it should do.The looms do have tape around like that as there are splices of common live wires to all the sensors in the engine bay.Most of the sensors will have a red/black live which is shared.Test this at the o2 sensor in question.You should have an earth and a shielded wire which is in the middle iirc.If you connect a multimeter to the signal wire and rev the car to around 2500rpm the voltage should rise and fall rapidly.If you need the ecu pin numbers for the sensor drop me a pm.

I will let him know mate.spot on.

Look in SWZ in our traders section.

I may try and get to this if the weathers fine.Will see how the weekend goes and arrange to meet with you guys sunday.

Your an L dubber then.Im in Brentry so only 5 minutes from you.You wanna make sure you have a good alarm on it living there bud ;).No offence.

The exhaust manifold on a tt is held by 6 14mm nuts that would be a nightmare to do in situ.Youd have to take the turbo off to get the heatshield out the way.Im told it can be done but have never attempted it myself and prefer to take the engine out.If your cars an N/A then your in luck.the nuts are the same size and easy to get on.

You mention "wheel spinning mess". without traction control you may have problems even in fourth gear.That sort of power will command some respect and need careful application otherwise :wack:.its gonna be quick.

Whereabouts in Bristol are you mate?

Are you sure its firing on all 6 cylinders? Rough idle and engine stumble can also point towards a misfire.How severe is the black smoke.?

Most likely cause of wandering on rear of car is hicas joints worn.

Rear pads are consumable items Like back tyres.:tongue:

Line locks for burn outs?? Heel and toe always works for me.and its free :D

Sour grapes cus you got a knock back.My breads not buttered that side James Lol !

Fungey loves the other hole.Tried to pay me for his turbo fitment with offers of the other hole.I declined of course :D.

Yes the donut went down like the proverbial lead balloon.:mac1:

many thanks Mark for a great day.It was really nice to meet everyone.Hope to see you all again soon.

E mailed shawn and waiting for a reply.got a few jobs in the pipeline and who gets the buisness from the parts needed depends on the response.

Que the old "tummy ache" chestnut :D.