Yowser

Thats not your Hicas ECU. Its in the Passenger footwell. The only ECU I can think of in the Drivers footwell is the Climate control ECU.

The PAS and Hicas ECU are shared. You need to keep it connected....and yes you have it labelled correctly. You can disconnect and remove the Autobox ecu though.

Shell_zx , Ceejays partner. Lukes is a kind of candy red SWB

First you need to check its running correctly, before you think about power upgrades, I'd say at least a quater of all those I look at are running in Safety mode without the owner ever realising, and most of those that are not are running with faulty O2 sensors, FPR regulators and boost leaks instead ! Do an ECU error test - http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html or http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html

That Leigh is a very impressive bit of polishing !

Both shiney, but different shine

Chrome can look better, but personally I would stick to Polished. Most Shiney Plenums in the UK are Polished. Chroming is more expensive, as to chrome the plenum first you need to get it polished anyway. Otherwise the finish would be terrible after chroming. Chrome radiates heat more than just polished, so perhaps not so good for engine cooling (no proof of any heating issues though). but biggest problems is that If the chrome finish gets scratched or damaged or even flakes of due to the heat you would have to get the whole thing rechromed again. Whereas with Polishing if its gets scratched..etc it can just be buffed out.

christ, very upsetting. So sorry to hear, our thoughts go to Abi and all of your family Keep strong. Hope for the best. All will be well.

Nope :cry: Car wont be out of the bodyshop in time

GL5 is the requirement for LSD, which most Gearbox oils are anyway.

Its a high speed handling aid. (or a gimick they threw in to compete with the other manufacturers who were adding there own gizmos). I have wired a switch in a couple of times for Zed owners and it does the job. Make sure the inner and outer Hicas arm joints are in good condition.

Personally I believe with those IC's the only way to get adequate cooling to them it to replace the Fogs with Ducts and route the air from them to the upper 1/3 of the Intercooler. THe stock bumper ducts can be modified to provide flow to the other 2/3 of the cooler.

:cry: :cry: Although this one is stupid : Its obviously just having a spoiler removed and smoothed over !

This link should work ? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/search.php The guidelines I follow for oil choice with the z32 are : For a stock or mildly modified example then a good quality semi-synthetic 10w-40. For a rebuilt engine use fully synthetic For a highly modified example (bigger turbos, injectors) use a fully synthetic 10w-50 or 10w-60

Yep, its a standard thermoresitor gauge that connects to the ECU. Its going to be accurate (not counting for old coroded examples). Its the Gauge cluster itself which is unreliable as the gauge is not linear.

Its licensed software now Mark, you wont be able to run it without your own license. Its available from Blazt.biz for around £25 I believe.

Its held on by 4 bolts as well, no need to seal it if you dont have anything available, or even at all.

the AVCR thing said 298kph which is about 180mph. US speedo goes to 160 and it was off the speedo, so that seems about right.

I quite like that, works well :cool: I'd have kept the perspex strip black, but still it looks good.

ahh, you dont have stock spoiler. In which case its just the struts that need replacing as they are tired with age. The weight removeal may help, its only 1kg but may make a difference.

You have 2 problems. 1. The Tailgate struts have weakened with age, 2. The Tailgate is heavier becuase of the moisture absorbed by the old spoiler You can get new stock struts and that will most likely solve the problem, but as said the stock spoiler will start rotting the tailgate in time. You can get a fibreglass stock replacement if you like the style.

ahh yes...it stalking you now instead? - http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=114107

or you can repalce them with Solid Brass bushings for a smoother change, more direct feel and no more having to replace them when they fail.

Where from ? They are around £400 new !

Welcome. Post some pics up