AndrewG

UK spec cars have the diversity tuner with the rear screen and telescopic aerials.

My understanding of one of the key benefits of EBC over MBC was described in the Sport Compact Car Project 300ZX part 2 published in 1998: "The EVC works by monitoring manifold pressure and uses a cycling solenoid to limit the amount of pressure that the wastegate sees - much like the old bleed valve method. One of the advantages the EVC has over the old-school bleed valves is that the sophisticated microprocessor will not allow pressure from the intake manifold to reach the wastegate until the set pressure has been reached. Once the set pressure is reached the EVC commands the soleniod to open, allowing manifold pressure to reach the wastegate. This keeps the wastegate shut until the last possible moment. If a bleed valve has been used to fool the wastegate, pressure would build up, causing the wastegate to slowly open. This gradual opening of the wastegate valve causes soggy boost response and reduced acceleration." The article refers to bleed valves rather than MBCs, but the principle point remains the same?

My experience - the HKS EVC4 is a reliable "fit and forget" setup.

I'll second that, even if mine is the "heavier" MK1 version with the RPS flywheel.

Faisal, please post a picture of the caliper so we can help you identify it.

Nearly four minutes into added time and with odds of 1,000-1 Japan won 34-32 against South Africa! Congratulations!

Have you tried to repair the seized caliper? New pistons and seals are available for Brembo calipers. You need to check that the caliper's bores are not damaged and are in good condition.

Indeed it is, mine is the red one available here: https://www.z1motorsports.com/steering-wheel-and-airbag/gza/gza-steering-wheel-emblem-p-7339.html Very OEM+ if I may say so.

No thanks! I doubt it was 26.2mpg in the Gorges de L'Ardeche.

Just totalled up the fuel consumption for the trip - 1600 miles used 61 gallons giving 26.2 mpg.

Bonjour Sébastien! It was a pleasure to meet you too.

Couldn't agree more!

Day 5 - North to Calais and the Eurotunnel and home.

Day 3 - South to the mediterranean coast at Montpellier and then north to the Gorges de L'Ardeche followed by our third night's stop at Valence. Day 4 - North to our fourth night's stop at Appoigny.

Assorted pictures from the recent run in France over 5 days and 1600 miles. Thanks to Simon and Joel for an unforgettable experience. Day 1 - Home to Eurotunnel then Le Mans to meet up with Simon and then on to our first night's stop at Berry-Bouy. Day 2 - South to the Millau Viaduct and then our second night's stop at Saint Jean de Cuculles.

Under the passenger footwell (wooden) cover plate and then under the main ECU.

This has pictures which may help you (scroll down a bit): http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171779-How-To-Install-Keyless-Entry This is closer to how my Nissan dealer installed actuator is located: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=129218

You can get AshSpec 2.5" kits from SpecialtyZ and CZP in the US. I am not aware of a UK reseller for any of the 2.5" kits available in the US.

In that case take a small flat bladed screwdriver (instrument type will do) and insert between the chip and socket. Then gently lever the chip upwards in small steps from the socket alternating from each end in a "see saw" fashion.

Assuming you don't want to keep the eprom then I would suggest cutting each leg of the chip as close to the body as possible with a pair of miniature wire cutters (Maplin do them). Remove the eprom body and then deal with each soldered pin in turn with a small tipped soldering iron, miniature needle nose pliers and solder wick and/or sucker. This way you are much less likely to damage the pcb traces during the removal process.

This article was published in SCC a while back on their project 300ZX and used the Aquamist system. "The Aquamist atomizer nozzle installs into the intake tract before the throttle body. The silver cylinder is a one bar check valve to maintain pressure in the system to reduce water lag." http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/project-car/0102scc-project-nissan-300zx-part-vii (scroll down to "water injection")

Much better!

Interesting read, thanks.

If it was me I would just paint a smooth concrete floor with good quality floor paint. I would be concerned that trolley jacks, axel stands together with dropped heavy items and tools would likely damage the tiles and fluids stain the grout.

This should help you decode the function of the wires. It is in Japanese but google translate will work. Scroll down to "Door inside the wiring example (infrared keyless equipped car example)" http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=6&rev=&no=0 in english: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.zcar-owners.net%2Fcgi-bin%2Fdiy_bbs%2Fcbbs.cgi%3Fmode%3Dal2%26namber%3D6%26rev%3D%26no%3D0&edit-text=