General Discussions - 300ZX Related

So once again I’m in need of help/guidance with my Zed. This time it’s because it won’t start!:glare: I’ve searched google and this forum and there seems to be a vast number of reasons why a zed won’t fire up. None of them seem to match up with my situation, so I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction… Over the last few weeks I’ve been noticing that when I start the car (from cold) the engine revs up to about 2,000 rpm and then, over the space of about 5 seconds, drops back down - almost to the point of cutting out. Usually I just rev the engine a little and then it’s fine. It idles as you’d expect, there’s not misfire, hesitation, cutting out or a…

Hi, don't know if this is an appropriate post, but wondering what my Zed is worth before posting it up for sale in the Classified section? Have been shafted on ebay by non-paying bidders twice now, so thought I would try it on here where there are people genuinely interested in these cars. 1991 NISSAN FAIRLADY 300ZX Z32 3.0L N/A AUTO 2+2 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1991-NISSAN-FAIRLADY-300ZX-Z32-3-0L-N-A-AUTO-2-2-/131882364514?hash=item1eb4cd2e62:g:q9wAAOSwtnpXmc3~ Any input would be gratefully received. PS, This isn't an ad, I'm just asking the question!!

Hi ...Sorry to be a pain ...have now sourced the UK Spec rear exhaust sections with chrome tips from Richie K and wondered if the back box itself should be finished in a satin black and the tips are then obviously chrome to match the spec as it left the factory ? ...kind regards Taz

So now I've installed a catback and z1 intercoolers, and I'm currently installing split downpipes. So with those mods is it safe to run 0,9mm welding tips if I run 98octane fuel? I also have a boost gauge so I can check boost level. I do believe my previous Z had boost jets installed without running any ecu mods...

Probably one of the worst car reviews I ever saw , not only 300zx but any car . Is it just me or it sucks ? What do you people think ? Ta

That dreaded time of the year the MOT. Usual carnage...............2 new tyres (that's now 4 new ones), window regulator for E/W and a whole heap of welding.....but also some discontinued parts Does anyone know if there is anywhere in the world that does the suspension cross members (Part 54401-44P20) Nothing at ConceptZ or Courtesypart (which is usually the last resort). Will i have to get these of a breaker? Cheers Andy

eBay link I especially like the part where the seller states that he retrims classic car interiors for a living, so the finish on his own car is "quite well done"...! Y'know, as opposed to being "absolutely first rate!"

Took Car for a spin In storage more or less since 2009. Have only driven it a handful of times since. Power failure after a few miles and Cat over temp sensor came on, got car home but smoke from engine bay and right exhaust Thinking its Coil failure possibly x 2 spilling un-burnt fuel on Cats?? Nervous to drive it to mechanic 94SWBTT Slicktop

Following on from my thread about the rust on the rear arches, I would say apart from the uk spec having no rust proofing at all, it would seem that having no arch liners in the rear is one of the factors of a lot of rust on our rear arches, Does anyone know of a similar size wheel arch liner from another car that could be fitted with a bit of fettling for our zeds? Having a liner would stop the stone chips and dirt collecting in the arches.

Hi guys I just heard that the guy who bought silverstreak off me has just started to break her for parts????? Can't believe he is doing it!! Last thing I heard he was selling her for 5k! What a waste?

Just thinking aloud,my n/a is needing work and thinking along the lines of stuff it do a TT swap,am I just been stupid is this a stupid idea and going to cost way more than it's worth doing? Any idea if costs involved to get a TT swap done? Anyone had it done?

Ok, you may remember I painted my Zed in a gazebo using cellulose about a year ago, despite all the warnings (yeah ok, maybe I should have used 2K...) - http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182675-Base-coat-no-need-for-cutting-compound I screwed up the first time by not mixing the paint properly, but this year I did a refresher coat (after properly mixing the paint) and then several clear coats. Using G3 and a polisher my results were very pleasing (a little orange peel on the bonnet but acceptable) and I was happy, all the hard work, time and money was worth it - Then after a few months when finally summer came this happe…

Has anyone had any luck replacing the rear inner arch on there zed, panels are here http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=614&category_id=148&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7 I don't want to remove the outer wing only the internal. I realise it will have to be cut in places to match the old one, but as mine has so many holes has anyone done this?

Pretty much all my instrument clocks are starting to stick/freeze. Is there an easy fix for this (i.e. Dry solder joint repair etc)? Or do I need to replace? The speedo and rev counter have done it for years; a bit of a bang on the dash and they seem to wake up again. Now they're all doing it. (Boost gauge etc). Also, if I were to buy a second hand replacement set, could somebody tell me what series a 1992 JDM TT 2+2 auto would be? Cheers Steve J

Hi All ..I have a UK spec Metallic grey 300zx twin turbo Auto 2+2 and the central finishing piece to the rear spoiler is missing ...had a nose on google images and not sure if it should be the colour of the car or if it should be a red reflector ? ...Upon the answer I need to buy one so anyone with one for sale or can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated ..best wishes Taz

Hi can anyone tell me if decat pipes are different auto to manual?

Looking for a replacement for a plastic clip/screw in the rear suspension arm plastic cover since people found chinese replacement for the door cards when i asked about them hoping some1 knows replacements for these

I am contemplating getting my Air Conditioning re gassed, my worry is that it has not been gassed up for over 5 years. I have recently changed most of the O rings in the system, and having looked at the system in general, all appears to be in good shape. One of my main concerns is the oil, will there still be oil in the system? Or will I have to ask for oil to be added at the time of the re gas? The last thing I want to do is have it re gassed, only to find that the system will fail due to lack of lubricant. All advice welcome... Thanks in advance...

Anyone know if a TT exhaust will fit on to a na just cat back system James

Does anybody have a link to the dead times for the 300 please for the Nismo 740cc injectors? Cheers

I'm just wondering what pads people usually use as I'm going to change mine at some point

what makes and how low and what spring rates can you get from are cars and who stocks them or is it all from the us had a look online but cant get a straight answer

Does anyone have the same stainless exhaust as me, it was for the strosek kit I believe. It has an olive fitting where you can adjust the angle of the pipework where you want it and can then tighten up my olives were mild steel so have rotted through, I would like to replace these with stainless steel ones but cannot find anyone who has them has anyone here had any luck with these?

Upgraded my dead Zed digital clock with a generic 12v eBay purchase today, seems a cheap fix for anybody interested... About 6 quid off eBay from a UK seller, 3 or 4 quid if you want to wait for a Slow boat from China... Removed it from its housing and stuck it into the (newly emptied) OEM clock housing to then screw back on to the console fascia. It adjusts by means of a push button on a short pair of cables that would not take much work to fit to the OEM reset button on the original housing. Mine is red, which suits me fine, but some sellers do it in blue as well which is probably nearer the factory colour. Probably not for the purists, but it floats my boat and the d…

Hey guys, I just installed a later model ECU into my Z and though everything is working fine so far, I just noticed the potentiometer you turn to check error codes is pointing downwards towards the right. My old ECU had it pointing upwards towards the right. I have looked up some info on which mode this is set to at the moment but I don't really know which way the potentiometer should be pointing to for normal mode. Any ideas what this is set to?