Ok, you may remember I painted my Zed in a gazebo using cellulose about a year ago, despite all the warnings (yeah ok, maybe I should have used 2K...) -

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?182675-Base-coat-no-need-for-cutting-compound

 

I screwed up the first time by not mixing the paint properly, but this year I did a refresher coat (after properly mixing the paint) and then several clear coats. Using G3 and a polisher my results were very pleasing (a little orange peel on the bonnet but acceptable) and I was happy, all the hard work, time and money was worth it -

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then after a few months when finally summer came this happened -

 

 

 

 

 

After some research my theory was that I'd applied the clear coats to quickly, and perhaps too thickly when it was too cold for the solvent to evaporate fully. So, it got warmer, sun hits the paint and the remaining solvent wants out, then the clear coat cracks... However, it's almost like the clear coat is shrinking and causing itself to split and crack. The second time I painted I made sure I gave amble drying time and applied thinner coats, but sadly no difference.

 

I've been battling the reaction for months now at weekends, rubbing down the clear coat back to base, repainting...however today I noticed my re-painted tailgate of about 3 weeks ago has started reacting again. It's truly sole destroying, and the finish I'm getting isn't as good as I had first time around.

 

The reaction only seems to happen to the clear coat, and then this affects the base a little, but rubbing off the clear coat (which takes some doing!) gets rid of the worse part of the reaction. Catching it early seems to be the key, before it has time to affect the base.

 

My Zed currently looks like this (bumper fitted today, and will likely react once the sun hits it) -

 

 

The front wings are not clear coated - and so far have not had any reaction. The doors and bonnet are covered in several thick coats of high build primer ready for rubbing down....

 

The problem is, it's been 4 years rebuilding my Zed, and this is destroying my motivation.

 

The big problem is my Zed isn't on my drive, and I need to move her in a couple months time, so time is running out. I have nowhere else to paint, so once I lose the drive that's it.

 

My options -

 

1 - Strip back to bare metal. (Not really realistic given the timescales, plus I don't think I have it in me anymore. :( )

 

2 - Don't use clear coat, even though it protects the paint and looks nice and glossy.

 

3 - Apply bar coat. I'm really considering this, seems like the logical option, but haven't spent enough time researching it, but it seems expensive - £30 for 1 ltr.

 

4 - Stick my Zed on ebay as a failed project. Not something I want to do, given that it's been 4 years of my life. I spent a lot on parts etc and I'm not a quitter, but sometimes maybe you just have to cut your losses. :(

 

Thing is, bar coat is to stop the reaction from previous paint...so theoretically it shouldn't make any difference as I don't think that's the problem. I've been buying all the paint supplies from the same place, so surely it should all be compatible. Stripping back to bare metal also won't solve the problem, if it's something to do with the clear coat. I think I may contact the supplier I've been using, just to check it is compatible.

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I'm at a bit of a loss. Time (and my motivation) is running out.

Edited August 13, 20168 yr by MasterCookieman

For my two cents, I would leave it without the clear coat for now, so you have a car all one colour and have a satin look. Then long term I would go back and use 2k acrylic instead. Cellulose has proven to not last the temperature so stop coating it with failing stuff.

 

You must be crazy putting option 4 in there...

For my two cents, I would leave it without the clear coat for now, so you have a car all one colour and have a satin look. Then long term I would go back and use 2k acrylic instead. Cellulose has proven to not last the temperature so stop coating it with failing stuff.

 

You must be crazy putting option 4 in there...

 

Thanks. That makes sense. Just without the clear coat it doesn't take much to mark the paint, but my options are limited.

 

Option 4 is that of a desperate man on the edge. I can finish other things elsewhere, paint a bumper in my garden etc, but the main painting must happen now. Like I said, it's sole destroying seeing all those hours of prep and painting go out the window, worse of it is I still don't understand why - so I can't fix the problem.

 

Apparently you can spray 2k clear over celly without issues...so that is also an option. Just don't want to poison the street (or me!), who I think are already tired of 4 year project.

I think just spend a full weekend, get the paint done. Then get the engine running right, scan codes, check sparkplugs etc.

 

Imo you just need to get the car back driving, so you can enjoy it.

The other option is send the car in for a respray? I got a full respray for a friend done for £1700 in lambo orange Pearl. Proper job as well, all door shuts etc, glass out. It was a top job for that money. Also included fitting and fettling a full body kit..

If you can't go there due to finances, I'd recommend acrylic clear coat as well. I've never wrote had issues with acrylic and I've got it in my engine bay on some real hot places and it's not having any issues coping.

Are you absolutely positive that foreign contaminates on the paint are not causing your issues, especially as you're painting outside of a sealed booth?

 

Have you panel wiped prior to clear coat?

Are you absolutely positive that foreign contaminates on the paint are not causing your issues, especially as you're painting outside of a sealed booth?

 

Have you panel wiped prior to clear coat?

I wipe down with pre paint and use a tack cloth. The first time I did it in a gazebo. I'm using a water filter, and I make sure I drain the ck press or after each session. So I don't think it's contamination.

 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Compressor that was meant to say. Lol

 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Found this...... If you want to take a look.....

http://www.paintforcars.com/blog/common-car-paint-problems-their-causes-and-how-to-repair-and-prevent-them-from-happening-part-2/

 

It says:-

Cracking

Also termed as alligatoring, checking, crow’s feet, spitting or crazing, this problem usually appears as lines or cracks in your car’s topcoat. Appearing like the cracks on dried mud, these marks usually come in different widths and lengths.

 

Cause:

There are a number of things that could result in the cracking of your car paint. These include excessive thickness of your undercoat or topcoat’s film, force-drying of undercoats with the air coming your spray gun or inadequate flash time after every coat.

 

The non-thorough agitation or stirring of the paint ingredients or the improper mixture or excessive usage of hardener are also two other possible reasons. Then, there is also the use of standardized hardeners or reducers or the breaking down of your car’s finish due to the continued exposure of your vehicle to direct sunlight, extreme changes of temperature or moisture.

 

Repair:

There is nothing else you can do to fix this kind of blemish, but to get rid of all the cracked paint film and then refinish.

 

Prevention:

Even during the painting process, you can already prevent cracking from happening and it can be started by the proper application of all paint materials according to all the directions on their labels. Before starting with the refinishing procedure, remove all the cracked or crazed finishes completely.

 

Only use the recommended paint additives and mix these thoroughly with all the other ingredients. Each component must be added according to the recommended sequence and proper ratio for mixing. All materials should be agitated or stirred meticulously as well before using to make sure that all the ingredients are mixed into the solution.

 

Never use air from your spray gun to force dry undercoating. Be sure to use only the recommender reducer or thinner and hardener and measure them accurately before application. If you want maximum durability and gloss for your car, you should always use a two-component undercoat and topcoat system for it.

 

Please read the full article as it is only what I have found searching google for 'Crazing car paint' and don't want to give wrong information...... Just pointing you to what I found.....

 

Russ

Edited August 14, 20168 yr by veilside01702

Found this...... If you want to take a look.....

http://www.paintforcars.com/blog/common-car-paint-problems-their-causes-and-how-to-repair-and-prevent-them-from-happening-part-2/

 

It says:-

 

Please read the full article as it is only what I have found searching google for 'Crazing car paint' and don't want to give wrong information...... Just pointing you to what I found.....

 

Russ

 

 

I've been to this site, but can't remember reading that, but I've read a lot. It's very interesting, thanks! I'm mixing the clear coat enough, so this might suggest that despite months, it may not be fully dry....maybe, and direct sunlight is causing it to dry rapidly. The areas that go first are absolutely those that are in the direct sunlight, the rear part of the roof was the first to go originally, then the left wing, which again, was in full view of the sun all day.

 

I've rubbed down the doors and bonnet today. the bonnet was a nightmare, sprayed a guide coat and it was all over the place. I also rubbed the clear off the tailgate. As I'm very confident its the clear that's the problem, I'm going to paint the whole car without, as suggested. I'll then take it from there. At least I feel like I have a plan now...rather than just despair!

 

 

Edited August 14, 20168 yr by MasterCookieman