So once again I’m in need of help/guidance with my Zed. This time it’s because it won’t start!:glare:

 

I’ve searched google and this forum and there seems to be a vast number of reasons why a zed won’t fire up. None of them seem to match up with my situation, so I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction…

 

Over the last few weeks I’ve been noticing that when I start the car (from cold) the engine revs up to about 2,000 rpm and then, over the space of about 5 seconds, drops back down - almost to the point of cutting out. Usually I just rev the engine a little and then it’s fine. It idles as you’d expect, there’s not misfire, hesitation, cutting out or any other problems. When I start the engine while it’s warm I’ve found that I don’t get the initial 2,000 rpm ‘surge’, but I still need to tap the throttle just after starting to keep it from cutting out.

 

Yesterday evening I started the zed, which hadn’t been moved for about 5 days. It did the usual 2,000 rpm burst, but this time I forgot to tap the accelerator to keep it alive. It died after 5 seconds (give or take) and I wasn’t able to start it after (haven’t tried yet today). I could hear that the engine cranking over and there were one or two point where it sounds like it almost wanted to start, but it didn’t fire up.

 

I know the usual suspects of starting problems seem to be the CAS or PTU, however I don’t think have any other symptoms that would indicate that either one is failing. I’ve also checked the fault codes with ECUTalk and found code 55 – no malfunction.

 

Has anyone come across this before?

 

Thanks.

Is your battery full of beans, ie does it crank lively for a good 10 seconds ?

Battery is in good health, had it off the car a few weeks ago to charge and was pleasantly surprised by how much life was left in it.

Had something similar some time back, turned out to be the TPS was set incorrectly.

Have you disturbed anything recently?

Disturbing something sounds like the sort of thing I would do…:whistling:

 

I pulled the plenum about a month ago to replace the valve cover gaskets. Since then I’ve been doing various odd jobs.

Mmmm, the plot thickens.

Certainly worth checking then?

Mmmm, the plot thickens.

Certainly worth checking then?

 

Thanks, I've have found a website that shows how to test and set it.

 

I'll check it out.

Before you get too involved just yet you need to try and start the car after first clearing it of fuel as it sounds to be flooded.

 

With ignition off remove the fuel pump fuse ( black fuse box under bonnet by brake master cylinder, then turn the engine over with you foot fully down on the accelerator,hold this for several seconds, stop and pause for 5 seconds and repeat, again with you foot flat down on the accelerator.

 

Switch off ignition and replace fuse, start the engine but with you foot OFF the accelerator until it catches, keep it running for at least several minutes before switching off, even if you have to keep it running using the accelerator, either that or switch the ac on as that should increase tickover speed.

 

Now you have a warm engine, looking for the running issue is easier as the cold run time with increased fuel should have passed.

 

Jeff

Update:

 

Before trying Jeff's method of clearing a flooded engine, I thought I'd try turning it over, as I would normally, and seeing what happens. The engine fired up for about 2 seconds before dying. I tried again and the second it kicked into life it died again.

 

I'm starting to wonder if this could be anything to do with my immobiliser. I had the clocks out to fit a MPH converter, so it's possible I've upset something behind the dash. That said, my immobiliser beeps as normal when I press the 'contact' against it so it's not giving anything away if that is the problem.

Update:

 

Before trying Jeff's method of clearing a flooded engine, I thought I'd try turning it over, as I would normally, and seeing what happens. The engine fired up for about 2 seconds before dying. I tried again and the second it kicked into life it died again.

 

I'm starting to wonder if this could be anything to do with my immobiliser. I had the clocks out to fit a MPH converter, so it's possible I've upset something behind the dash. That said, my immobiliser beeps as normal when I press the 'contact' against it so it's not giving anything away if that is the problem.

 

You checked the temp sensor connection and my advise for clearing the fuel?

 

Jeff

You checked the temp sensor connection and my advise for clearing the fuel?

 

Jeff

 

i just removed the connector from the temp sensor and it looks pretty grubby. Going to clean it and spray it with contact cleaner. Would I need to clear the fuel if the car starts and immediately dies? I would have thought that shows the engine isn't flooded?

i just removed the connector from the temp sensor and it looks pretty grubby. Going to clean it and spray it with contact cleaner. Would I need to clear the fuel if the car starts and immediately dies? I would have thought that shows the engine isn't flooded?

 

As Jeff says, worth doing even if to only eliminate it from the equation.

I have had some similar issues when I had a Vac leak from my recirc valve (Jeff actually replaced it). Sounds very similar!

Mine did this a while back... turned out the fuel pump ecu failed. Because of this you can either ground it so it's a constant feed of fuel when engine is on or you can get another fuel pump ecu... check if fuel is going into the engine first

Update:

 

Since this problem came to light I’ve checked every fuse and they all tested okay with a multimeter. I’ve removed the ECU temp sensor and cleaned the contact. I’ve removed, charged and reconnected the battery. I’ve removed the speedo and the attached speed converter. I’ve also tried bypassing the fuel pump control unit.

 

I’m still having the same problem where the car starts for a second or two and then dies. :sad:

 

 

I currently have the PTU off the car and I’ve just (attempted) to check it with a multimeter, as per the online service manual (EF & EC 179). That said, I don’t know if I’ve done this correctly…

 

I had the PTU with the metal fins against the desk (it’s a S1 PTU) so that the numbers are visible across the back. Whereas the service manual labels the top as “g f e d c b a” reading left to right, on the back of the PTU it reads “1 2 3 4 5 6 E”. I assume they’ve use letters in the service manual to make it clear exactly what pins they are referring to when testing the continuity.

 

When testing the pins, instead of getting an audible beep from my multimeter, it was displaying a number ranging from about 540 to 1610. I’ll put the figures up in the same manner as the table in the service manual. If someone could tell me if my PTU is dead or if I’m just testing it wrong, I’d really appreciate it.

 

 

 

 

Another thing, while I think of it, the fact that I’ve removed the speedo won’t stop it from stating… will it?

Update:

 

I received the fitting instructions for my alarm and immobiliser, so I decided to see if this was the cause of my starting woes. After a few hours of pulling apart the dash I managed to trace where the wires were going and bypass the immobiliser. I turned the key and the engine started up (without subsequently cutting out) :biggrin:.

 

 

I’m a bit puzzled as to why the immobiliser has malfunctioned on just the one circuit – however that’s something I’m not getting into for the time being. For now, I have a car that runs which is a big improvement on where I was this time last week!

 

While I’m at it, here’s a picture of my dials which are now white.

 

 

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to read this thread and post suggestions – may not have been the solution but I appreciate people trying to help me out.:thumbup1:

Good to hear you have found your issue, it's always a good feeling when you solve a problem.