Stephen

On your back with hobby tools, it is. In a proper garage with a lift and all the toys it’s gotta be far, far easier.

Completely agree Naz.

Trouble is with the nut splitter, if it’s the nut im thinking it is, it’s flanged so the flanged portion would remain. I’d say throw some heat at it but the bush and strut could suffer.

They’re quite expensive for a good one, one suitable for automotive works. You can hire one from HSS for about £30 for the day, you’d get the whole back end sorted like that. The nuts that hold the drive shafts on the hub are a pain without one and getting them out the way makes life much easier. I assume you will be removing/fitting the rear subframe assembly in parts? The diff alone is far heavier than you’d guess, I recon it’s heavier than the gear box.

I have a memory/feeling that the stock coil packs are actually superior. I certainly seem to recall that the stock coil packs are more than suitable well into the power chasing game with the VG30. In short, I’m not sure why you’d bother changing this item.

Borrow an impact driver. Be off in about 5 seconds flat.

350z front Brembos Callipers and discs. Virtually bolt on, cost effective and more than enough for road or light track use without being so large to negatively effect the front and rear bias. Readily available. That would be the good options. Skyline R33 Brembo. Very similar to above, there are some slight differences and they are more costly, scarcer and older. There’s various others, including Evo Brembos, K Sport, AP etc etc. All have various pros, cons and levels of expense.

If I could get my hands on a suitable Slicktop shell I’d probably re-shell my 2+2. Waste of a good 2+2 though.

Unless used in the intended way... of corse.

I’m going to go with the fuse box.

I replaced the hoses when I had the plenum off, some years ago. New clamps. No problems. Do it once, do it right, it’s fuel. Before this is used to leak in the cold, I’d tighten and it would be ok, then I’d need to retighten a while later.

The intercooler is a stock unit, still in the stock position. The fog light is hanging by the cable and touching the ground. The silver stuff bottom left is a grill that was covering the intercooler duct. If you look at the MAF, next to the air filter is a BOV. HKS SSQV by the looks of it.

Eye test failed. There’s BOVs too.

What did you have before 16 row or similar?

Mocal are quite well supported, Demontweeks, Merlin and I think even Zcentre sell them. Merlin Motorsports have been helpful when I’ve purchased bits from them in the past. The stock oil cooler system isn’t the best tbh, as it (as I’m sure you’re aware) works off oil pressure rather than temperature. That said, I’m sure the stock arrangement will be more than adequate for you.

The climate control on our cars is rather over complicated with multiple sensors and mixers. I’d start with changing the sensor behind the front fascia, that’s the ambient one that’s giving you the -86. Put it this way, mine does the same due to a faulty sensor somewhere. (Blows hot) I can’t be bothered to sort it as I’ve deleted the AC anyway. Need to hook it up to Consult and check the sensors. The on board diagnostics just aren’t useable.

In short it’s fan fiction and Mitsubishi have no plans to make it.

When you reinstall use a hex socket, 8mm iirc, rather than a screwdriver. Less likely to drop it again.

There’s a sticky bit on the inside behind this screw. It usually gets caught here and a magnet on a stick fishes it out in a few seconds. Made that mistake myself, twice ?

Personally I think the Rotas looked great. Should sell well those.

Have you been down in the fuse box? I can’t remember wether the car would start but when I had a faulty accessory relay it caused all kinds of issues. This is located in the firing line of a leaky targa drain to. Personally I think your “dead” left pod is an indicator of a larger fault. Be worth checking your actually getting power to things like the PTU. It’s been a while but that fuse box does lots of stuff.

I’ve had mine for 11 years and it’s red. Regular polishing and waxing and it’s never faded. Poor Boys Nattys Wax, it’s a red one, makes a fantastic top coat after polishing with the Diamond white.

Congratulations Richard. It’s our fifth today as well.

Can I blame Corona?

I’d have to pay up my subs for that...