Stephen

So it’s like a loop. The boost solenoid acts like a Y piece. The normal path, is from the induction pipes to the wastegate actuator with a restrictor, this nets you 9psi in stock form, or more if boost jets are fitted. When the ECU sees a signal from the DET sensor it opens a short circuit to then remove that restriction. Ending with actuator seeing true pressure and delivering wastegate pressure 7psi. So if it’s got a dead end you can check the routing. You need to plumb it correctly or the boost controller won’t work. In essence you need a feed from the piping to the boost controller and the out to a Y that goes the the actuator feed. Hopefully it’s already like this. Once deplumbed you can unplug, unbolt and chuck them. Mine are long gone.

The boost solenoids control safety boost not the boost pressure under normal circumstances. If you’ve still got your det sensor, leave them be.

Could be a multitude of things. From one simple issue to multiple issues. Has it ever run properly during your ownership? Id really look at giving it a really good look over, depending on your experience this may be better left to a professional. Where about in the country are you?

Yes, that’s is what I’m asking. Is their maths right... does seem a tad steep. Other the further expansion of it, (I’m aware of your position) yes it will be like buying from the rest of world, like America, which is normally fast and easy tbh. In fact depending on the deal done between us and the US it could become easier and cheaper. Who knows. NM ey.

Is that even the correct amount?

The guys a rather interesting chap.

Silicone doesn’t always seal as well as rubber. Seriously just buy good quality stuff off the reel.

I replaced all my small diameter water hoses with good quality (Goodyear) pipe off the shelf from a local hydraulics specialists.

Go for a newer v8. The 350 is a good engine but you will far more fun for not much more money.

I wouldn’t have any if the Honda’s personally. I do like the NSX, it’s just in a price bracket that other far more desirable cars sit. The final shape RX7 is a pretty little thing but your mum would tell everyone you’ve got an MX5. I don’t really like any of their other options. The R32 can be cool but they’re seriously overpriced. The S13 is like a Z32 light, but more expensive to buy. Subaru, sorry but round here at least they are seriously Chavtastic. Toyota. The Supra is a looker, with bags of potential but like the R32, over priced. The Celica doesn’t tick many boxes, the GT Fours are alright. The MR2 is a nice little car, bit feminine though. Mitsi. I like the look of the GTO, but I wouldn’t own one. The Evo is a weapon and offers the scooby pros without the lethal dose of Burberry. So I think it’s safe to say I dislike more 90s jap cars than I like. I would own, a Z32, an R32 or a Supra mk4.

Compare this with postage between the UK and France (a game I play a lot) and it’s a snail race. I’ve had it take a month for a small package.

Everything I’ve ordered stateside has arrived very quickly. My last Z1 order, I still don’t quite understand how it got here so quick, it it was virtually next day.

That’s ok, rain washes the wankers away...

And that Jim, tells you all you need to know.

On your back with hobby tools, it is. In a proper garage with a lift and all the toys it’s gotta be far, far easier.

Completely agree Naz.

Trouble is with the nut splitter, if it’s the nut im thinking it is, it’s flanged so the flanged portion would remain. I’d say throw some heat at it but the bush and strut could suffer.

They’re quite expensive for a good one, one suitable for automotive works. You can hire one from HSS for about £30 for the day, you’d get the whole back end sorted like that. The nuts that hold the drive shafts on the hub are a pain without one and getting them out the way makes life much easier. I assume you will be removing/fitting the rear subframe assembly in parts? The diff alone is far heavier than you’d guess, I recon it’s heavier than the gear box.

I have a memory/feeling that the stock coil packs are actually superior. I certainly seem to recall that the stock coil packs are more than suitable well into the power chasing game with the VG30. In short, I’m not sure why you’d bother changing this item.

Borrow an impact driver. Be off in about 5 seconds flat.

350z front Brembos Callipers and discs. Virtually bolt on, cost effective and more than enough for road or light track use without being so large to negatively effect the front and rear bias. Readily available. That would be the good options. Skyline R33 Brembo. Very similar to above, there are some slight differences and they are more costly, scarcer and older. There’s various others, including Evo Brembos, K Sport, AP etc etc. All have various pros, cons and levels of expense.

If I could get my hands on a suitable Slicktop shell I’d probably re-shell my 2+2. Waste of a good 2+2 though.

Unless used in the intended way... of corse.

I’m going to go with the fuse box.

I replaced the hoses when I had the plenum off, some years ago. New clamps. No problems. Do it once, do it right, it’s fuel. Before this is used to leak in the cold, I’d tighten and it would be ok, then I’d need to retighten a while later.