nickz32

That's precisely what I've done to my Z1 intercoolers (modified to 2.5 inch ports)

Are you already on uprated intercoolers?

Suspension setup will have a big impact on traction off the line aswell. Weight transfer is key. A slammed rear end with high Spring preload and stiff dampeners will shock load the tyres and lose traction. Better control the weight transfer, the more chance you will give your tyres to maintain grip. Changes to your suspension settings will give you more of that "squat" feel you had in some of your other cars

Alright alright, I was tired and not paying attention. Consider ones wrist slapped for stupidity

Assuming this would be next year?

Engine out is DEFFO the quicker and easier option.

Yeah sure

Rears - - - Updated - - - No well et 12s will protude a further 18mm more than mine, so I would suggest no they won't

I run a 18x9.5 et22 front, lovely fitment on a 255 tyre and no scrubbing. Run 18x10.5 et 30 on a 295 tyre. Had to flare the rear arches quite a bit as they poked out by about an inch

Good to hear she's running again. Does she not heat soak like a pig with those filters there? Could you not run a air feed from the front of the air box down the holes either side of the rad where the stock boost pipes run?

With enough space and either a raised rev limit or adjusted final drive a Z will break 200mph. I hit 181 through the trap in 1.6 miles at pretty much 7000 rpm. While it was still pulling and with enough space I think it would probably have only just breached a genuine 190 before hitting the 7200 limiter. While the shape of the Z is aerodynamic, there are other aero problems to take into consideration, such as air flow through and out of the back of the intercoolers being a biggy at those speeds. As is thermal management for all aspects of the engine (intake temps, fuel temps, air temp around the engine itself) which is what ultimately cause my engine failure when pushing the car so hard. It's not as simple of just having more power and enough room in a car that wasn't designed to perform at those speeds

I think he had a faulty thermostat that wasn't opening. I may be horribly wrong, but im sure Jaffa will correct me when he sees this

Seem to remember Jaffa having an issue with a Z1 oil cooler thermostat aaaaaaages ago.... Maybe wrong though

Seem to remember 82c is "operating temp" for the coolant. Are you running a larger oil cooler, would expect oil temps to be mid 80's with these ambient temps even at low load

Drop me a message on FB if you like (Nick Johnson)

Those turbos have the potential for WAY more than 600hp. What's the purpose of the car going to be, road? Track? Drag? That should define how you should spec your build. Have a look at EP Racing on Facebook or drop Mitch a message. He helped me a lot during my rebuild. Cleanliness and machining is key to everything

Pretty common I'm afraid. Unless your garage is hermetically sealed, you will always get moisture on the car (condensation forms on the metal as the metal cools quicker than the air at night) Surface rust on recently repaired panels is due to insufficient sealing of that metal. Use a proper etching zinc primer prior to using underseal otherwise it will just creep back through.

Are you absolutely positive that foreign contaminates on the paint are not causing your issues, especially as you're painting outside of a sealed booth? Have you panel wiped prior to clear coat?

I've just ordered some EBC BlueStuff NDX for my Evo X brembos. I don't normally rate EBC brake parts for car applications, but these have had really good reviews across the board so decided to give them a go. Fairly sure BigH runs them on his car. Found OE brembo pads to really lack on initial bite and fade on track. Other options id looked at were Performance Friction PF11's and Carbotech XP8's

I found those dead times to be slightly off when we used them in my map. When I get home I'll screen grab my dead times for you

Nearly went with them last year, but they were pipped by PD. Will give them another crack this year

Wasn't aware that SARD made 1000cc side feed injectors either, biggest SARD side feeds I've ever seen are 850cc red tops

Get it on a conzult and check everything is behaving. Assuming it has been tested correctly, fully up to operating temperature, it could be a number of things. TPS, air leak, base timing (all as previously mentioned) as well as a potentially failing O2 sensor, incorrect fuel pressure, lazy injector or anything else that can make it run rich

GT525's .54AR, 1.55bar (22 and a bit psi), which is pretty much in the limit of the compressor map

Depending on the A/R ratio really, but I'm knocking on 550RWHP with similar supporting mods