nickz32

Been looking through my old threads, so many Z memories it's kinda difficult to pick one stand out one! Just as easy to forget how longneck I've been a Z owner for - - - Updated - - - Bloody auto correct, must learn to proof read before posted when I'm using my phone!

I used a still wire wheel on an angle grinder to get off the old underseal. I took probably 50% back to bare metal where I found surface rust had crept under the old underseal and caused a bit of surface rust. Everything I took back to bare metal I treated with an acid etch primer, everything else where I took it back to the original factory etch primer, then sprayed on a couple of coats of Zinc 182 paint for a bit more protection. For underseal I used U-Pol Gravitex, purely on recommendation from friends and people who I know that work in classic restorations. You can also paint ontop of it if you so desire to give it a REALLY clean look. - - - Updated - - - **stiff wire wheel**

Must have been my eyes, they looked like flared metal arches when I first looked lol. Looks like I've got a tiny bit coming through where my arches were flared, that section needs repainting anyway, I'll inspect it when I sand back the metal. Luckily I did my inner and outer sills a year ago and re zinc primed and undersealed the whole of the underside while I was at it. Gutty job but worth it

That's not a Z repair panel is it??

Your waaaaaaay undersized on the tyre for that power level. Look at it like this, would a manufacturer release a RWD car with 6-700hp on 245 width rear tyres? Never in a month of Sundays! Never mind the fact we don't have the pleasure of TC or ESP!!! To give you an idea, on my old engine build (570hp/480lbs ft) with 295/30/18's on FL453's i could get full power down in third on a dry road with the tyres up to temp, in the wet I'd get wheel spin in 4th regardless of the speed IF I booted it. With regard to suspension setup (and if your on coil overs) I'd reduce your spring preload a couple of turns to help with softening the weight transfer to the rear. Stephen also makes a very valid point around the bushings on the rear end - - - Updated - - - (FK453's not FL's)

While everyone fears the next financial market meltdown, classic and rare cars will continue to rise in stock as they're seen as a safer investment than stocks and shares, and to a degree, property aswell. It's far more likely that the Chinese stock market will crash again than the bubble bursting on valuable cars. Until that changes, prices will keep rising

Personally, I'd sell them on and try and find a set with better offsets rather than spending a fair few quid of spacers to get them where you thought they would have been in the first place Just my 2p's worth

Cheers chaps

Slightly off topic, but PE1420's are OLD tech now in turbo land. A Garrett GTX28 will out perform a PE1420 in every possible measurable manner.

That's precisely what I've done to my Z1 intercoolers (modified to 2.5 inch ports)

Are you already on uprated intercoolers?

Suspension setup will have a big impact on traction off the line aswell. Weight transfer is key. A slammed rear end with high Spring preload and stiff dampeners will shock load the tyres and lose traction. Better control the weight transfer, the more chance you will give your tyres to maintain grip. Changes to your suspension settings will give you more of that "squat" feel you had in some of your other cars

Alright alright, I was tired and not paying attention. Consider ones wrist slapped for stupidity

Assuming this would be next year?

Engine out is DEFFO the quicker and easier option.

Yeah sure

Rears - - - Updated - - - No well et 12s will protude a further 18mm more than mine, so I would suggest no they won't

I run a 18x9.5 et22 front, lovely fitment on a 255 tyre and no scrubbing. Run 18x10.5 et 30 on a 295 tyre. Had to flare the rear arches quite a bit as they poked out by about an inch

Good to hear she's running again. Does she not heat soak like a pig with those filters there? Could you not run a air feed from the front of the air box down the holes either side of the rad where the stock boost pipes run?

With enough space and either a raised rev limit or adjusted final drive a Z will break 200mph. I hit 181 through the trap in 1.6 miles at pretty much 7000 rpm. While it was still pulling and with enough space I think it would probably have only just breached a genuine 190 before hitting the 7200 limiter. While the shape of the Z is aerodynamic, there are other aero problems to take into consideration, such as air flow through and out of the back of the intercoolers being a biggy at those speeds. As is thermal management for all aspects of the engine (intake temps, fuel temps, air temp around the engine itself) which is what ultimately cause my engine failure when pushing the car so hard. It's not as simple of just having more power and enough room in a car that wasn't designed to perform at those speeds

I think he had a faulty thermostat that wasn't opening. I may be horribly wrong, but im sure Jaffa will correct me when he sees this

Seem to remember Jaffa having an issue with a Z1 oil cooler thermostat aaaaaaages ago.... Maybe wrong though

Seem to remember 82c is "operating temp" for the coolant. Are you running a larger oil cooler, would expect oil temps to be mid 80's with these ambient temps even at low load

Drop me a message on FB if you like (Nick Johnson)

Those turbos have the potential for WAY more than 600hp. What's the purpose of the car going to be, road? Track? Drag? That should define how you should spec your build. Have a look at EP Racing on Facebook or drop Mitch a message. He helped me a lot during my rebuild. Cleanliness and machining is key to everything