nickz32

^^^^^this

Anything that's down as a VG30DET is for a Z31 300zx not a Z32 (which is VG30DETT). Personally I'd go for an RPS Street Max over everything else clutch wise. There's another thread active at the moment about lightweight fly wheels, have a look at that before deciding as unless you want to upgrade there is no reason why you couldn't have your stock wheel skimmed if it needs it. Other thing I would 100% do is go for the full length braided clutch line and delete the hydraulic dampener (the bleed nipple on the near the hicas servo). Makes clutch bleeding a significantly easier and less time consuming. - - - Updated - - - *and to clarify, if your car is an NA, it's VG30DE

Someone's telling porkie pies..... lack of MOT due to emissions, I think not However, it does appear to be at least a series 4 car, whether it's a 97/98 car remains to be seen. - - - Updated - - - Previous MOT was in 2009, so it was off the road for a long old while

What was it up for originally?

This demonstrates as well as anything the effect of a light weight fly wheel when free revving

Really should proof read when using my phone! Should read *the other negative is a reduction

If you have any ideas of retaining any form of around town/slow traffic/hill start road manners then don't even think of having a twin plate carbon clutch, I've seen starved lions with less bite! Whilst they maybe significantly lighter to a tradition clutch they're very focused for track/drag applications. An RPS Street Max clutch will do everything 99% of Road going Z owners will need. Stock feel and pedal weight and will hold just shy of 800 ft/lbs of torque. As for ligh widget fly wheels, simply put, there's less rotational mass loaded into the rotating assembly of the engine and less parasitic draw. You're unlikely to notice it's effect whilst in gear and pulling. However you will notice is whilst decelerating whilst in gear (more engine braking) as well as any 'blip' you may give between gear changes (free-er quicker rev). If you go for a very light flywheel, you'll find that you'll need more revs and more clutch slip to move off a stand still. The northern negative is a reduction in torque. On the TT however, it minimal once on boost (1.6 lbs/ft loss in torque, 8hp gain at the fly on before and after dyno sessions on same rolling road)

Nice. Both box and diff fluids are on my list of things to do, but have more pressing issues at hand such as getting her road worthy again

I've been working on mine for the last 17 months, and the things to do list doesn't really seem to be shrinking If you're doing trans fluid, you may aswell do the Diff fluid while you're at it

Plenty to keep you busy!

Courtesy Nissan has it down as EVAP pressure sensor. If it is a MAP sensor, I can't find the pressure specs on it

I stand semi corrected, it's both a MAP and Boost sensor

My '95 S4 has it, but it's not a MAP sensor (on 96+ are obd2). I came to the conclusion it's a boost sensor for the later ecu.

Et38 on 9J will probably be ok on the rears but doubt you'll have to roll your arches Both those options for front off set will sit like stock wheels, if not further in the arches (can't remember what the offset is of the stock wheels) On those width wheels I can't really advise what offset would give the desired stance that most look for. I can only tell you that a 18x9.5j et22 is bang on for the fronts. Can't really comment on the rears, as I'm on a 10.5J et30 and had to flare the arches a fair bit for them to fit, but have zero clearance issues on the inside of the wheels Funkysi of JoelyP are two examples of spot on off set selection (I'm sure there's others but user names aren't coming to mind)

For the first year in a fair few, nothing. Feels odd

As previously said, FB is generally an easier way of sharing pics of "I've just cleaned the car" "lovely drive today" type posts, which used to be a common thread many years ago that bolstered the "new thread" numbers. It's been a long time since I have done any work with vbulletin, so I don't know if there is any new features that allow FB style photo sharing rather than having to attach from your computer or use an IMG code from Photobucket etc. For me, the leadership to the club now is more in tune to how I thought the club should be run compared to previous incarnations (hence my defection and subsequent more active behaviour). My point being, personalities make the club as much as the content

Been looking through my old threads, so many Z memories it's kinda difficult to pick one stand out one! Just as easy to forget how longneck I've been a Z owner for - - - Updated - - - Bloody auto correct, must learn to proof read before posted when I'm using my phone!

I used a still wire wheel on an angle grinder to get off the old underseal. I took probably 50% back to bare metal where I found surface rust had crept under the old underseal and caused a bit of surface rust. Everything I took back to bare metal I treated with an acid etch primer, everything else where I took it back to the original factory etch primer, then sprayed on a couple of coats of Zinc 182 paint for a bit more protection. For underseal I used U-Pol Gravitex, purely on recommendation from friends and people who I know that work in classic restorations. You can also paint ontop of it if you so desire to give it a REALLY clean look. - - - Updated - - - **stiff wire wheel**

Must have been my eyes, they looked like flared metal arches when I first looked lol. Looks like I've got a tiny bit coming through where my arches were flared, that section needs repainting anyway, I'll inspect it when I sand back the metal. Luckily I did my inner and outer sills a year ago and re zinc primed and undersealed the whole of the underside while I was at it. Gutty job but worth it

That's not a Z repair panel is it??

Your waaaaaaay undersized on the tyre for that power level. Look at it like this, would a manufacturer release a RWD car with 6-700hp on 245 width rear tyres? Never in a month of Sundays! Never mind the fact we don't have the pleasure of TC or ESP!!! To give you an idea, on my old engine build (570hp/480lbs ft) with 295/30/18's on FL453's i could get full power down in third on a dry road with the tyres up to temp, in the wet I'd get wheel spin in 4th regardless of the speed IF I booted it. With regard to suspension setup (and if your on coil overs) I'd reduce your spring preload a couple of turns to help with softening the weight transfer to the rear. Stephen also makes a very valid point around the bushings on the rear end - - - Updated - - - (FK453's not FL's)

While everyone fears the next financial market meltdown, classic and rare cars will continue to rise in stock as they're seen as a safer investment than stocks and shares, and to a degree, property aswell. It's far more likely that the Chinese stock market will crash again than the bubble bursting on valuable cars. Until that changes, prices will keep rising

Personally, I'd sell them on and try and find a set with better offsets rather than spending a fair few quid of spacers to get them where you thought they would have been in the first place Just my 2p's worth

Cheers chaps

Slightly off topic, but PE1420's are OLD tech now in turbo land. A Garrett GTX28 will out perform a PE1420 in every possible measurable manner.