nickz32

Cheers Jeff With regard to the clearly pish steering angle potentially triggering the failsafe on the HICAS system, would this not trigger the HICAS dash light?

Little update I have put and new speedo converter in. This one corrects the speedo but sends and uncorrected speed signal to the ECU. However, whilst I no longer have any speedo drop out, I still have heavy steering. Conzult still shows the same readings as per the first post. Looks like I'll be going through the car with a multi meter. I'd usually consider trying another HICAS ECU, however, being a s4 car with electronic Super HICAS, the ECU is completely different to hydraulic hicas ECU I've tried taking the HICAS fuse out to "deactivate" the hicas, but symptoms remain the same.. Anyone else got any bright ideas?

Well the official word from Haltech is that their ecu should have zero influence on the rest of the Conzult systems diagnostic capability and the Platinum Pro plug in is calibrated to read the vehicle speed sender via one of the options within the ecu manager. I think I'll try and plug my original ecu back in and see if it makes any difference to the Conzult and the diagnostic results, otherwise I'm going to have to do as I mentioned above and manually check each component with a multi meter and cross reference with the WSM OH THE JOYS

No, the value doesn't change at all. I am wondering if the Haltech is causing an issue with the readings the Conzult is producing. I would have expected that with them being so far out it would have triggered "fail safe" mode and thrown up the HICAS light, which it has never done. It's things likely saying the parking brake was engaged when it wasn't, nor any change when I engage/disengage the clutch or brake pedal. I'm going to send Haltech an email asking if the Platinum plug in ecu properly "speaks" to the hicas ecu. Do you happen to know if I need the engine running to engage the diagnostics mode with Conzult, or does could I just do it with the ignition on (so I could plug in my original ECU and see if I get any different readings) For the mean time, I'm going to look at doing the same "permanent" modification the Skyline boys do and remove the J4 resistor from the circuit board and bridge some of the other connections to recalibrate the speedo, therefore ensuring an unaltered signal to the ecu - - - Updated - - - From there, I'll just look at working through the troubleshooting pages in the WSM and make sure everything is sending the signals to where it's meant to etc and go from there

Nice on Andrew. Any suggestions of what lbs expansion force is suitable for the Z boot?

Ok, well this is interesting. So it appears that with speedo converters, while they correct the speed signal going to the actual dial, they don't correct the signal going to the HICAS ecu. Where's Groover when you need him!

To clarify, I haven't fitted that converter, I mean that's the one that was fitted to the car when it was imported

Well I removed the speedo this arvo. This is the converter I have fitted I also left the battery unhooked over night with the wheels left straight (apparently it can confuse the hicas ecu of where the steering angle sensor is pointed if you disconnect with wheels pointed off centre), but to no avail. Looks like I'll have to go through the whole WSM trouble shooting and check every system. I hate electrics

95 series 4 JDM buddy. Yeah I'm going to check the PCB on the clocks for dry solders etc. I forgot to take a pic of the converter that's been used, but it didn't look like a cheap nasty one, all properly wired in and shrink wrapped etc..... but it's certainly a possibility. It's the steering side of things that has me confuddled. I'm assuming the steering angle sensor goes straight to the Hicas computer?

Morning all. I've already posted this elsewhere and had a couple of answers, but thought I'd pick your brains as well (I'm not great with electronics!) So since putting my Z in for its MOT its developed the usual heavy steering at low speed/intermittent speedo drop out fault. My first thought was speed sensor as it's a fault I've had on my previous Z. I decided to investigate further by hooking up to ConZult (cheers BigH) and conduct a HICAS diagnostic (can't do an Engine diagnostic via Conzult as I'm on a Haltech). This is a shot of what it was displaying. Diagnostics was done with the vehicle stationary and idling with the front wheels pointing straight ahead. Car is fitted with a HKB steering boss and after market wheel (has been fitted for 5 years with no previous issues) A couple of things are apparent that I'm looking to figure out why I'm getting such readings. 1) vehicle speed showing as 11mph whilst vehicle is stationary 2) engine rpm shows as greater than 1500rpm whist car is idling at 750rpm 3) steering angle showing as 7323 degrees to the right, yet it's detecting the steering angle sensor is in the neutral dead ahead position 4) if I accelerate, the speedo responds as expected and is bang on when compared to GPS, yet Conzult detects no change in speed, nor does it detect any movement if I turn the wheel left to right FunkySi has already suggested that I look for dry solders on the speedo, which I will investigate/resolve. However, the other issues currently have me baffled. Any ideas?

#details

No worries mate. Let me know if Si doesn't manage to grab the bits you need. I'll be doing an OE parts order for when the Z goes on the bodyshop at the end of the month/beginning july

Memory like a sive that boy!

How soon is soon?

Is your EGR still there or has it been removed. Ifs it's gone, you can get to the knock sensor without removing the lower plenum when your upper plenum is off. It's a faff, but doable. If so, replace the sensor and check the continuity from the plug to the ECU, and bobs your uncle you've eliminated one potential cause for your running problems. If you're EGR is still there, how long ago did it last have a 60/120K service. If it's due any time soon, you're only looking at an extra 8 bolts and the middle idler pulley to get to the knock sensor

I certainly wouldn't give up on the mechanical side of things. Doesn't sound like a big issue, just scrub everything you think you think is wrong and start from scratch and work through the faults as logically as you can.

I'm not sure, but if it's consistently pulling timing because the knock sensor is teliing the ecu it's detecting knock (faulty sensor or it is actually knocking) then that would cause it to run lumpy until you disconnected the MAF and it starts dumping fuel into the engine to smooth it out.

Isn't it just (TT.net) While ash is a great innovator, he generally seems to lack in actually producing his products in a timely manner for people to buy.

What did you change your BMC to Stephen?

Hmmm, just me then. I now have Evo X Brembo fronts (not sorted out the conversion brackets for the rear yet) with 370Z sized DBA5000 2 piece discs and Ebc Bluestuff NDX PADS. Bite and power are immense, but it currently feels like the pedal travel between 5% brakes and 100% brakes is between 5-10mm. Heel and toe would result in me head butting the windscreen. I know I have a problem with my rear calipers that I need to investigate (pretty sure I have a couple of sticking pistons), but I was curious about others experience. Knowing that the BMC of the Z 3mm bigger than what's fitted to the Evo X, I was expecting modulation to remain unchanged. More investigation required

Or infact any big brake conversion For those of you that have made the change to Brembos or other big brake conversions, how did you find the following was effected? 1) Pedal modulation (so how much pedal travel from very light braking to 100% brakes) 2) abs engagement under heavy braking (kicks in earlier or later) Any feedback would be appreciated - - - Updated - - - Oh, since I can't edit, how different did you find in it comparison to stock brakes

Click "Thread Tools" and Subscribe to this thread is how I usually do it

2 years, 1 month and 1 day after she left home to go to my workshop, she drove home under her own steam.

Cheers Si

It's been a long day and I'm tired and no doubt being stupid. Just been doing my pre MOT checks and found my rear number plate lights aren't working. Now it has occurred to me that I didn't reconnect them when I put the back bumper back on. However, I can't seem to find the actual connector itself Can someone kindly remind me where it is Ta