nickz32

Morning all. I've already posted this elsewhere and had a couple of answers, but thought I'd pick your brains as well (I'm not great with electronics!) So since putting my Z in for its MOT its developed the usual heavy steering at low speed/intermittent speedo drop out fault. My first thought was speed sensor as it's a fault I've had on my previous Z. I decided to investigate further by hooking up to ConZult (cheers BigH) and conduct a HICAS diagnostic (can't do an Engine diagnostic via Conzult as I'm on a Haltech). This is a shot of what it was displaying. Diagnostics was done with the vehicle stationary and idling with the front wheels pointing straight ahead. Car is fitted with a HKB steering boss and after market wheel (has been fitted for 5 years with no previous issues) A couple of things are apparent that I'm looking to figure out why I'm getting such readings. 1) vehicle speed showing as 11mph whilst vehicle is stationary 2) engine rpm shows as greater than 1500rpm whist car is idling at 750rpm 3) steering angle showing as 7323 degrees to the right, yet it's detecting the steering angle sensor is in the neutral dead ahead position 4) if I accelerate, the speedo responds as expected and is bang on when compared to GPS, yet Conzult detects no change in speed, nor does it detect any movement if I turn the wheel left to right FunkySi has already suggested that I look for dry solders on the speedo, which I will investigate/resolve. However, the other issues currently have me baffled. Any ideas?

#details

No worries mate. Let me know if Si doesn't manage to grab the bits you need. I'll be doing an OE parts order for when the Z goes on the bodyshop at the end of the month/beginning july

Memory like a sive that boy!

How soon is soon?

Is your EGR still there or has it been removed. Ifs it's gone, you can get to the knock sensor without removing the lower plenum when your upper plenum is off. It's a faff, but doable. If so, replace the sensor and check the continuity from the plug to the ECU, and bobs your uncle you've eliminated one potential cause for your running problems. If you're EGR is still there, how long ago did it last have a 60/120K service. If it's due any time soon, you're only looking at an extra 8 bolts and the middle idler pulley to get to the knock sensor

I certainly wouldn't give up on the mechanical side of things. Doesn't sound like a big issue, just scrub everything you think you think is wrong and start from scratch and work through the faults as logically as you can.

I'm not sure, but if it's consistently pulling timing because the knock sensor is teliing the ecu it's detecting knock (faulty sensor or it is actually knocking) then that would cause it to run lumpy until you disconnected the MAF and it starts dumping fuel into the engine to smooth it out.

Isn't it just (TT.net) While ash is a great innovator, he generally seems to lack in actually producing his products in a timely manner for people to buy.

What did you change your BMC to Stephen?

Hmmm, just me then. I now have Evo X Brembo fronts (not sorted out the conversion brackets for the rear yet) with 370Z sized DBA5000 2 piece discs and Ebc Bluestuff NDX PADS. Bite and power are immense, but it currently feels like the pedal travel between 5% brakes and 100% brakes is between 5-10mm. Heel and toe would result in me head butting the windscreen. I know I have a problem with my rear calipers that I need to investigate (pretty sure I have a couple of sticking pistons), but I was curious about others experience. Knowing that the BMC of the Z 3mm bigger than what's fitted to the Evo X, I was expecting modulation to remain unchanged. More investigation required

Or infact any big brake conversion For those of you that have made the change to Brembos or other big brake conversions, how did you find the following was effected? 1) Pedal modulation (so how much pedal travel from very light braking to 100% brakes) 2) abs engagement under heavy braking (kicks in earlier or later) Any feedback would be appreciated - - - Updated - - - Oh, since I can't edit, how different did you find in it comparison to stock brakes

Click "Thread Tools" and Subscribe to this thread is how I usually do it

2 years, 1 month and 1 day after she left home to go to my workshop, she drove home under her own steam.

Cheers Si

It's been a long day and I'm tired and no doubt being stupid. Just been doing my pre MOT checks and found my rear number plate lights aren't working. Now it has occurred to me that I didn't reconnect them when I put the back bumper back on. However, I can't seem to find the actual connector itself Can someone kindly remind me where it is Ta

Ordered a new set of number plates.... hoping to put in for its first MOT since October 2013 on Monday, then on to the paint shop. The recommisioning is nearly complete!

+1 for Gummi Pledge. Certainly helped bring the suppleness back to my targa seals and solved the very minor leak I had

Could be the speed sensor getting wet and shorting out? Steering weight is lightened/loaded up dependant on speed

Why didn't this even remotely occur to me?!?

Old thread revival I know! I need a new rear plate, however my current "import" size plate is technically too tall as it's too big to use the hooks on the plate hanger. Can anyone confirm that the sizing above is the correct size that the plate correctly sits on the plate hanger Cheers

I personally used ACL in my build, but I know Mitch at EPR swears by King Racing bearings for his builds. Unless your planning on changing the pistons themselves for forged items, is just go for OE rings.

That's because you're a social whore :P

Stephen, can I ping you a message about your rear brake setup? You on FB?

I can't say I've ever seen that kinda screw on the Z before