nickz32

If the battery light is staying on, you need to investigate that issue before moving on. Is the belt in good condition, correctly tensioned and not slipping? What voltage do you read at the battery with the engine running? Is the alternator wiring correctly installed and seated fully?

I'm with sky insurance at the moment, £312 a year, 5000 mile limitation, £15K agreed value all mods declared

Happy birthday fella

It almost looks like it's shrunk

Couldn't agree more. I ended up choosing someone who knew the Haltech really well (they're one of the UK distributors) rather than someone who specifically knew Z's.

October 2013.... Whilst on a chipped Ecu, not the Haltech... Yes, it's been off the road THAT long

While yes it's true there are loads of people running a stock setup with no problems, what I'm trying to get at is how many of those people running a stock setup have an engine failure that could have been prevented if a modern Ecu was installed. My stock engine went pop for due det, I wasn't running any increased boost, just exhaust and intake mods, yet it cracked a ring land on cylinder 6. Would my current Ecu setup have prevented that damage, yes it would because it would have detected either a drop in fuel pressure/high air temps/knock etc etc etc and reacted to it. My Haltech with wideband controller, map sensor, intake air temp sensor, boost solenoid, fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor came in at about £1570 to my door and I fitted it myself, easy job, no harder than installing a boost controller. In hindsight, if I'd spent that money as a first modification, I wouldn't have needed either of my forged builds

Think JoelyP has a TwinZ spoiler

If you're that worried about it, you now know it's not a huge deal to remove the oil cooler. Flush it out completely with brake cleaner and an air line and refit it. Make sure you prime the oil system before your next start up and check the oil level before you fire it up (top up as required) Run it for 3.5k miles or whenever you next oil change is. Pull the cooler and inspect the oil. If it's dead clean compared to the oil you drain out of the engine, you've got a check valve issue. If it matches the engine oil, your all good.

Depends on what you define as up to the job. Can a stock Ecu have its fuelling and ignition timing adjusted to suit performance modifications: Yes Can a stock Ecu monitor knock throughout the entire rev range: No it can't. It only detects knock up to circa 5200rpm. While a mapper can adjust the map to avoid knock whilst on a dyno using a set of det cans, the instant you take off the det cans, there ends your high rpm knock detection. The theory would be that once it's mapped it's safe, but that's ENTIRELY dependant on your car running in the way it ran on the dyno. Anything outside of those parameters, the Ecu was VERY limited capability to adjust to compensate. Can a stock Ecu monitor fuel pressure/ oil pressure/ oil temp/ wideband O2 sensors/ egt sensors etc etc etc that enable finer tuning AND safety functions: No it cant Can a stock Ecu adjust the map and engage safety measures to potentially save the engine should any of those sensor read outside whatever parameters you/mapper decide: No it cant. Please don't take this as me being padantic, that's not my aim. But is the stock ECU fit for purpose to run AND keep safe a 300 hp performance engine..... No. It's not.

Haltech platinum pro plug in. There are others that will do similar to the z, but very few if any are direct plug in. I ran 500rwhp for about 8 months on a custom mapped chip, worked fine in terms of being able to be mapped to give that power, but had 25% of the safety features, which is what ultimately caused my engine to go pop. Lesson learned from my experience, don't fork out £7,000 on a lovely forged engine and then try and protect it with a 30 year old computer!

Yep, I'd be interested in a set of those

I'm pretty sure the only weekend im working in August is the 20th/21st, so I'm up for this. Nice one Howard

Wow that's a project and a half! But well well worth it!

Regardless of the flaws in the add, that ad is worth screen grabbing for insurance valuation purposes. The more cars that appear like that at that price range can only help those of us who have/want high value agreed values on our insurance policy. Throw a handful of those adverts under an insurers nose and pics that show your car is in a more cared for condition, they'd be hard pushed not to agree high values

If your worried about the longevity of a second hand part, you can still get this cross member new from the states https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-75210-40p60-lower-radiator-core-support-twin-turbo-tt-nissan-300zx-z32_p_6853.php

I know I'd prefer a real carbon part over a skimmed part! Matching cam belt covers and throttle cover would be nice, as would a fan shroud. Carbon pods either side of the clocks would be cool aswell

Rusty coolant

It's deffinatly something I'm considering. My supply and return lines have extra insulation where they come up the from the underside of the car and past the down pipe and turbo. The routing of the lines has been the biggest challenge with the new setup, aswell as deciding on the location of the FPR. I could relocate the battery to the boot and use that space for the FPR, but frankly I couldn't be arsed with the ball ache!

Yeah I went through all those changes aswell as a part of the diagnostics sessions I had on the dyno. Changed the wiring to the pump to thicker gauge (hence that extra connection on my tank lid in one of the pics) and bypassed the FP controller, changed where we took the vac feed from, different sized vac lines, different pumps, different fprs Trust me when I say I've spent much much much more money trying to diagnose the issue than I have on replacing the fuel lines!

Yeah spoke to Greg and Mitch at EPRacing, both agree that what I'm saying is entirely feasible. There do seem to be some exceptions to which I've found, which I can't explain. However I would say that it's not an issue that's directly linked to power levels, it's more around pressure requirement. Obviously a larger turbo will make more power at a set psi compared to a smaller turbo. It's also worth pointing out that in the vast majority of cases with in tank pumps, as pressure requirement goes up actual fuel flow reduces from the pump.

Because our fuel tanks are designed to pressurise and the pump is submerged it's highly highly unlikely. I suppose you could say that if it was occurring on track with rapid changes of direction that it could be fuel starve from the fuel sloshing around in the tank, but all my testing and data is from dyno time where the car is effectively motionless. I feel it makes more sense with the data that's available that the fuel is vapourising as its drawn into the pump itself, causing the cavitation and loss of delivery

Cheaper, no. Larger hard pipe may be cheaper to buy but requires a more expensive type of fitting. Easier: deffinatly not! Routing the braided lines was a simple task that took very little time. Having helped my motorsport friend fit 12mm hard pipe fuel lines to one of his race cars, it's a ROYAL pita, very time consuming and you make one wrong bend it potentially ruins the whole section of pipe.

Wide open throttle. Now while it could be suggested that I simply don't boot it with less than a third of a tank of fuel, that simply just isnt acceptable to me. if I'm driving down a country road and want to overtake a car, I don't feel that having to glance at the fuel gauge first before making the manoeuvre is something that I even contemplate having to consider in such s situation. It wouldn't be acceptable to a company that releases a 500hp car, so it isn't acceptable to me.

I ordered 3 meters of AN6 and 9 meters of AN8. I've probably got half a meter of AN6 left and maybe 1.5 meters of AN8 left over. It was the fittings that were the most expensive part, about double what the piping costs.