nickz32

Well I've just pinged an email to Greg Dupree to find out his opinion. It goes without saying that it is specific to my engine spec (currently 575 at the fly for those who don't know) but I think the answer will be relevant to those of us running the smaller end of the updated turbo spectrum with the vast majority of the breather mods fitted (piping, intercoolers etc)

Nice, where did you find them?!? (Aren't they out of a J30?)

Bar the guides which are also past their best and the cause of my oil usage, everything has been checked and perfectly within tolerance. 5 angle is old tech now, I'm having a full profile cnc valve seat and throat job on my heads. As above, valve guides are already being replaced. No, not using a z specialist, rebuilding myself. Stephen, as mine is a '95 series 4, it has 48p heads. Try finding a set of those second hand!! I have started to look on 3zc but the problem over there is the big power guys are aiming for top rpm power to suit the strip rather than a balanced spread that I'm looking for - - - Updated - - - Sorry Stephen, bloody curser jumped, so the second hand heads thing isn't directed at you lol

Bump

So I've just had news today that I need to replace all the valves in my heads due to excessive wear, so I'm now looking at the aftermarket options that are available. While I'm sure others exist, the two most popular options are SuperTech 0.5mm oversize and Ferrea 1mm oversize. Between the two I'm currently unsure which direction to take. Initial thoughts are to go for the bigger Ferrea's as they will obviously allow more air into each compression cycle. However, some basic research has revealed that going bigger also moves the power band further up the Rev range (which is something I'm not particularly keen in doing). Is my research correct (not specifically 300zx research) or are Z heads "under valved" and could really do with bigger valves anyway? Which brings me to the SuperTechs. Sounds to me like the ideal option in that they're big enough to allow more air into the combustion cycle, slightly cheaper, and should have less immediate draw backs, but maybe not as future proof if I decide to add cams in the future? Further to that, another concern I have is around use of the stock retainers. Can the stock retainers be used with either of these valves? Or am I now looking at having to upgrade my springs and retainers to match the valves? (I cannot see any desire or need of me to have the ability of running higher rpms in the future) I also intend to stay on stock cams for the foreseeable (I have other higher priority mods I want to sort first) So who has experience with these valves and what feedback can you give in relation to how they perform and any figment issues that you came across. Cheers in advance P.s machining costs do not come into the equation, choice of these valves won't effect any of the other machining work I'm having completed

Couldn't have put it better myself

I'm still a maybe, but happy to be on the list.

Top bombing

how much fuel did it have in it?

Whole lotta love for those front wings!!

Excellent stuff! Cheers dude Wasn't sure about using a sander due to amount of heat it would generate

Evening all A quick one for those who have smoothed the stone guard on the rear bumpers themselves. Can you enlighten me on what grit sand paper/wet and dry you started with and progressed to. I've not had a go yet but knowing how much plastic can clog up sand paper, I'm interested to know what everyone found whilst doing their own Cheers Nick

It's a difficult one. I thought hids looked quite as right when paired with halogen side lights

Before flare After

A very interesting post buddy. Whilst I agree that to the letter using another device to read mph is acceptable, I think you'd have to argue it with some of the less educated mot testers

Nope, none at all. The rears are 10.5J et30 on 295/30R18 but the rear arches needed quite a bit of a flare. I've got a pic of pre flare somewhere, I'll see if I can find it

Cheers buddy. Hopefully it'll be back on the road again in the near future

Tell I lie, just checked, they're ET+22 not 20's

It's not the best pic in the world to give you an idea of a +20 offset on 9.5J's up front, but you get the idea

Just because your getting some form of signal from the speed sensor doesn't mean that it's performing within the parameters the ecu can understand. Most logical explanation for the fault is the speed sensor (it is a common fault that gives the symptoms your experiencing) and you can't possibly eliminate it unless you either analyse it's pulses with an oscilloscope or replace it with a know good/new sensor

on the front I run a 9.5J with et+20 on a 255/35R18 and only needed to slightly massage the mounting points for the arch liner. I have zero scrubbing issues either

As mentioned it'll be brake pad material and therefore sintered iron based rather than carbon. Something like this should make easy work of those buddy http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-and-exterior/carpro-iron-x-500ml/prod_726.html

I won't know until a couple of weeks before if my car will be ready, so I'll confirm closer to the time

If my z is back up and running I will try and come along, work depending