nickz32

I know..... But I was there when it was mapped!

exchange rate is fairly good at the moment, about 63p to the dollar. Id take a stab at £400 delivered, but for the sake of £100 difference between ebay specials to one of the most efficient sidemounts on the market, id know what id chose OR Id go for BAZZ's HKS sidemounts...... also very nicely made intercoolers

Hey Paul, Father in law is now ready to sell his GTO. Are you still looking? If so, i can forward you his contact number and you can make contact directly Thanks Nick

You could buy Z1 SMIC's for that amount at the current exchange rate

That's a fricking bargin!!

You wont need a front mout until your making over 600 horses running mahoosive turbos. Up to that point, side mounts are a much more efficient design! And to be honest, 2fast2cool stuff is cheap. its cheap for a reason, equally why well designed front mounts from GReddy, HKS etc etc etc cost a pretty penny. Infact i would put a significant amount of money on the fact that a set of decent side mounts would easily out perform an ebay front mount

Theyre exactly the same as 94+ zed calipers

Not all, some special fluids to exist, which i cant remember what their rating name is. But we cannot use them on road cars as they require all the seals to be made of a special material, similar reasons why you should never for DOT 5 in a road car, itll just eat all the seals in the system and pretty much destroy your whole braking setup As you probably know DOT 5.1 is technically the best brake fluid you can put in a road car, it has the highest boiling point lowest viscosity (its about half as viscous as DOT 4) and has the lowest volume change in relation to temperature (basically it doesnt expand or contract as much when hot/cold so it give a more consistant pedal feel and braking effort) My stock zed brakes are as close to mint as they can be, all new pistons seals sliders and pins, DS2500 pads and DBA 4000 discs, but the single biggest improvement in the braking department in terms of how the brakes feel and how much effort and pedal movement was required was the combination of braided lines and a complete system drain and replace with Motul DOT 5.1 - - - Updated - - - sorry, that should read "you should never use DOT 5 in a road car"

Personally, before you go the whole hog on a Big Brake Kit, and once you have ensured the calipers are in tip top order (no stuck pistons etc) put on braided brake lines and flush and replace the whole systems brake fluid (full system flush) and replace with decent quality fluid DOT brake fluid is "hydrophilic". This means the fluid will absorb water from the air. Rumor has it that you can fill a shot glass with DOT fluid and after an hour or so the glass will overflow. The DOT brake fluid absorbing moisture from the surrounding air causes the volume increase. This is why every container of DOT fluid requests that you keep it closed when not in use. As the fluid absorbs water its vaporization temperature (or boiling point) is reduced. DOT 4 becomes no better than DOT 3 and eventually degrades in performance to the level of DOT 2. Amazingly enough, a small amount of moisture will be absorbed right through rubber seals and nylon hydraulic lines (virtually any material except metal or glass). This is why car manufacturers recommend brake fluid replacement every two to three years

5w oil is pretty thin tbh, it could seep past your old seals. Change to a 10w and see what happens. Pre rebuild, mine was similar, started on one side but eventually spread to both. When the engine was stripped down there were no OBVIOUS signs of why it was smoking, but it had been combusting oil (burt residue on the piston crowns) However, the valve stem seals were dry and fairly brittle, so they looked like the most likely culprit Hope you find what ever is causing it

Yeah i know, was pondering what to do with it whilst giving the engine bay a buff up. Got to decide what to do with the various bolts that are on show aswell, and have a bit of a reorganise of the various cables and pipes to make it a bit tidier - - - Updated - - - and the balance bar...... you know what its like, the lists just keep growing!

Just wanted to put a quick thread regarding Jimmer ( aka PowerZed) Jimmer has a fantastic reputation as some of you may know, especially when it comes to his engine rebuilds. As my other thread kind of documented, his approach to his engine build is clinical and of that of a master surgeon. I was very specific with what sort of performance level i wanted the engine to be able to provide and how i wanted it to deliver that performance. Together, we worked through a wish list for parts and went through the pros and cons of those parts. I was a fairly extensive consulation process. He also proved to be very accommodating during, keeping me up to date with general progress, any issues and how he proposed to get around those problems. That in its own right is something pretty rare when it comes to garages and engine builders. I also asked him to do a few other bits and bobs that i had issues with that were not part of the engine build, which were completed to the same high quality. Obviously time and mileage will be overall judgement on the quality of the engine build, but if any of his other builds are to go by (and my build is by far not the most complicated or powerful) then the engine will have a strong life ahead of it. When John Dixon maps the engine in September, i will post up what sort of figures the engine is able to create and I hopefully I will have the most powerful 4 Bolt turbo'd zed in the UK (Jimmers car being the top of the tree when it comes 4 bolt turbo'd engines - that we know of) In summary, Massive thanks to Jimmer for all his hard work and help over the last 8 weeks or so. I know some of you may want to take your car to somewhere more local to where you live, but GOOD zed specialists are few and far between, but Jimmer is the Number 1 in the UK as far as im concerned And yes, i've been shim shammed Nick

yes mate :D

SSR Indy 500's Front 18x9 et38 w 20mm hubcentrics 255/35/18 Rear 18x10 et 38 w 10mm spacers 295/30/18

Looks nicely put together, but it's not for me..... Looks like something out of a 70's sci fi program with a "futuristic" car

Where did you source the seats buddy?

I would suggest wheels like bbs and rays would probably hit TUV standards as they make wheels for the manufacturers

I personally like the electronic HICAS, so id say keep it. Depend entirely on your driving style, personally ive never had a problem of being able to catch the back when its stepped out with HICAS cars

Profec B spec 2 for me aswell. The biggest thing that lets the gizmo down for me is the looks, regardless of its features it just looks cheap to me

Agreed, lovely wheels, I like the arches, but you don't need that much stretch

Will do chap, Ill prob see him this weekend and ill see what his plans are

Thats the stock A/R for stock turbos, or GT525's (as they use machined out stock turbine housings)

My father in law has a 95 GTO MR, which is basically the lightweight TT. Its a lovely car, very sure footed and has great road presence, but i just prefer the zed. He is looking at selling it soon aswell as he has just bought an XKR, will probably end up on PistonHeads classifieds

I did mate yes, but I wont put my name down just yet, im spending alot of time working at the Olympics so I wont know what days off I going to have until about 3 days before. If i'm about, ill come along! Yes. Without a shadow of a doubt (state of tune depending, obv i dont have to say a 600hp scoob may destroy a stock zed0. Its all about the Torque!

Also weight isnt on the zed's side. Like everyones said, the zeds forte is rolling speed acceleration. Im running 295's on the back of my zed, and even with stock tubs running 339 at the fly on stock boost, i could light up the back end in first easy peasey If you want something that will launch you from 0-60 the quickest, a 4wd performance car will ALWAYS be quicker that a RWD, launch control or otherwise. R32 GTR?