nickz32

Don't know fella, I haven't bought see parts from the UK in about 6 years. Both Z1 and Concept Z performance sell them

You can't go wrong with an RPS street max clutch. It's a full face clutch for smooth engagement, a little heavier than stock but perfectly fine for daily driving and is rated to over 500 lbs ft of torque so gives you plenty of head room

As for top speed, I hit 183mph through a calibrated laser speed trap at bruntingthorpe at vmax (mine was putting out 580 at the fly). It was still pulling but I ran out of runway. Seem to remember is being VERY close to the red line at that speed, I'd be suprised if it breached 195mph with enough road with stock TT gearing with my wheel and tyre sizes

Mines currently at and agreed of 7.5k, but after the up coming round of body restoration, engine and chassis tweeks ive got planned for the next few months, I'll be pushing for a 5 figure valuation

I think the other issue is defining "top of market value". The z32 market is pretty unique in the jap performance world in that other cars like I have previously mentioned have a fairly well defined upper and lower limit of their respective markets. While the zed deffo has a lower limit, upper limit is a bit of an unknown to me

Cheers Gary. I won't ask what you will try and get it valued at when you renew. I am curious to know in what basis your going to try and gain an increase? Improvement of condition from restoration type work? Value of new modifications? Changes in general market value if z32's? Interested to know your thoughts

Edit Should read without some sort of provenance

To be honest I don't think it'll be long before 10k plus Zeds become an acceptable price tag. To my annoyance, I still don't think they will command the price tags that R32/33 GTR/supra/rx7 are commanding, but I think the gap will close up from what I think was a ridiculous price difference. And like Joely, FungalBumpkin and few others, I have no plans of ever selling the zed, but insurance value is proving a bit of an issue for me. I know the absolute minimum I would value my zed at, but with some sort of provenance in the marketplace for that value, it's getting harder to get insurers to agree higher see values. Si, Joel, Gary... Have you all got agreed values?

All CAT Bs have to have their bodies crushed. Salvageable parts are allowed to be removed but that's it.

Just to note, I'm running AMS manifolds and Alloy Toyz 3inch expansion down pipes, and I had no problems with quality or fitment of the parts. They certainly perform with no issues. Admittedly I may have got lucky as AMS rightly have a poor rep, but I bought these parts prior to the various issues with AMS parts became apparent. I am no way a supporter of the AMS brand. And to be honest, I have had more issues with UK supplied aftermarket parts than stuff I've imported from the states

Crikey, top 5.... didnt realise that! Will be interesting to see how close the next round of mods will get me to Bobs Non Nitro numbers.

Fair enough on both fronts. Plenty of pics with the rears when finished buddy

Ah, and linky no worky, not subbed dude

FFS, poxy auto correct. Meant to read deffinate point rather than deffo native

Completely agree about unsightly subs. However ive found with jodes BMW (we're on a 5 at the moment) that their is a deffo native point where the speakers can't cope with the range of sound they're being asked to deal with so you get this weird sound where it flicks between bass and mid. While the same car running the harmann Cardon system with a small sub seems is significantly better when the volume increases because it sounds like the components are left to deal with the mid level stuff and the sub to deal with bass, just gives so much more clarity. I'm by no means an audio geek, so the best way I describe it in my head is comparing FWD to RWD in that FWD the fronts have to everything while rwd the jobs are evenly shared

Or evo 5-9 brembos will easily fit. Plenty of threads about the conversion

So what are you doing for bass? As my spare wheel is going to be completely useless to me when my brake upgrade is completed, I was thinking of fitting a small sub into the wheel well. A little 6 or 8 inch sub or something. This way I can retain the full boot space but indulge in some bass heavy music from time to time without over loading the components

Precisely what I'd want. The only thing that plays on my mind is the position of the rear speakers and whether it could be improved. I'd guess a reasonable portion of sound was lost into the boot space rather than into the passanger compartment of the car

Very tidy job Si. Interested to see what route you go down on the rears

mine......mwahahahahahaha

That's interesting to hear rich. However, to keep on topic, it's more about pedal engagement and how the abs behaves when it kicks in rather than over all performance

That I don't know. Seem to recall that the z32 MC is a bigger capacity unit than the 200 one

With tyres and abs, wondering of the extra mechanical grip of being wider at the front almost overwhelms the abs?

Tis always a possibility, but I'm confident it's not at the caliper end. Would like to bottom it out before big brake conversion Tyre wise I'm running Fk453's all round (255/35/18 front 295/30/18 rear) Once of the reasons I brought it up was around the chat i had with JD. He brought it up as something he was looking at resolving on his v8 car. However, knowing alot of the 200 guys change to Z32 master cylinders, may be its down the vac assist side of things?

Guys and Gals Just wanted to see what the general consensus was around brake pedal feel and progression in their zeds To start, im still running stock calipers rebuilt with new pistons, seals, sliders etc, HEL lines, DBA 4000 discs and DS2500 pads all round. Im 99.9% sure my system is air free and im running DOT 5.1 fluid thats less than 12 months old. I do have big brake kit almost ready to go, but im sure this "issue" isnt caliper related. Ok, so as much as im happy with the performance of the stock brakes (although ill freely admit they dont have the out right power that i now feel i need due to my substantial increase in power) in that they VERY rarely fade (even on track), however there are a couple of things that i think could be improved upon compared to new cars (not even sport car specific) Firstly, pedal travel and initial bite of the brake. I have found when changing from the zed to either my work car or the misses company 5 series, newer car have that initial brake bite right at the top of the pedal movement (especially in the 5 series). No when i get on the brakes, the modulation is fine on the zed and comparible to new cars, but personally for me that higher up bite gives me a bit more confidence for late braking/emergency braking situations. I have found however, with almost a slight tap of the pedal (certainly not a "pump") it brings the biting point right up to where I feel it should be. I have discussed this with John Dixon before, and his opinion is that it something to do with the design of the brake master cylinder. While i dont doubt him, im wondering if there are any other contributing factors..... maybe something with the vac assist that could be upgraded etc etc etc....... interested to know your thoughts on this one! Secondly, ABS cut in. I dont know if any of those who have tracked your car have found, but when leaning hard on the brakes (but very progressively) that you can feel the abs pulsate through the pedal, but the ABS isnt actually engaging/disengaging the brakes and you momentarily loose braking force? This is something ive experienced a few times on track, and it can be a bit eye opening to say the least! The only way i seem to be able to get around this is to very quickly (cadence style) disengage and re engage the brakes, and all is well again. As I mentioned in a thread a long long time ago, when taking part in an accident reconstruction with the police (look up 300zx vs merc vito for the thread) that the actuation of the ABS is significantly slower than that of a modern car. Do you think that this odd manner is something to do with either the ridiculously long routing the brake lines make too and from the ABS unit, how the ABS is designed to work, etc etc etc. Oh and something else, have any of you found that when the ABS cut in, it kills the stereo? Id like to know: how many of you experience some of the things ive described above Any further ideas around initial engagement of the brakes in relation to pedal movement, ideas on how to improve it? Any other quirks you have found with your zeds braking system and if you managed to get around them Have any of these quirks been resolved by changing to a Big Brake conversion? etc etc etc Cheers Nick