nickz32

i would say its been like that since it was imported, and someone on this forum owned it before me. its odd what you get used to after so long

mmm, good point. Nope no signs of any denting. I thought it might just have pivoted on a mount or something, but like i said i cant see of any means of adjustment

If they have bent it that far, they must have had TINY feet! Looking at it, i reckon the accelerator pedal has been bent aswell Has any one got a similar pic that I can compare it to, so I have an idea mainly on the shape of the pedal arms (for when i decide to bend it back into position) Cheers

Hey guys As im currently pretty crippled following a recent knee surgery ive decided to take the time to sort the out the little things that bug me on the zed. First and foremost is the position of the pedals, especially the brake pedal As you can see the brake pedal is right over towards the accelerator pedal, and with the combination of my size 12 feet, it makes any sort of heel and toe impossible. Ive had the car for 5 years now and im kinda used to it, but the misses really struggles with it. Ive had a look underneath the dash at the top of where the pedal mounts to the servo and I cannot see any obvious adjustment to move it back over. The pedal arm doesnt look like its been bent as there are no obvious signs of stress in the black paint of the pedal arm Has anyone come across this before and is there anyway i can move the pedal to a more central position without having the remove the pedal arm and bend it. Cheers Nick

As mentioned above, you wont get ALL the pitting out with compounds and polishing wheels. You need to start with wet and dry, around the 280 mark and go at it. Start with just water, then soapy water, then up a grade (the lubrication soapy water provides give you like a half way grade between say 400 and 600). I wouldnt contemplate using compounds and wheels until over 1000 grit wet and dry, which is where machine polishing will always provide a better finish than by hand. Its hard gutty work and your fingers will ache for weeks, but it is well worth it!

Id say thats a knackered alternator bearing, had the same on mine. Speak to Andy at Supercarparts for a second hand one

Dont know to be honest. Its just quite perplexing as to how the flow charts say one thing but the map equations suggest another. I'll wait to see what DW come back with, but on a google search I cant seem to find any other examples of what im experiances. Its not like DW injectors are remanufactured units any more, theyre new from factory. I think ive got two options at the moment. Find somewhere independant to flow test them, or wait till i get back on the rollers and see if they actually flow enough fuel like 550cc injectors should with my setup

Well im hoping to have a new cable this week, fitting it is another issue, Car electrics are far from my forte! Then its purely down to when John and I can work a mutually suitable date. It was Rolling Roaded at Bailey Performance just outside Telford. When its all done ill probably take it to Surrey Rolling Road so I can have a proper before and after comparison on the same rolling road

Thought id post a quick result of the mapping session with John Dixon Well, it didnt quite go to plan. Basically, the conzult data port on my zed has some of connection issue that ment that johns software couldnt get a consistant live stream of information, which basically meant it was nigh on impossible to map. We also found the the Deatschwerk 550cc injectors were doing some very odd things. For some reason on the mapping scales they give the scale values of 440cc injectors. All very odd and ive contacted CZP and Deatschwerk to find out whats going on (the injectors came with a flow chart which showed rates of between 545 and 549cc). The combination of these things ment that john could only sort out the fueling and timing values for low boost levels (0.8 bar). The car has shown itself to have a fair bit of potential, and the capability of flowing very high volumes of air in comparison to cars with similar spec that johns mapped before The results were 400.8 flywheel HP and 384.8 lbs/ft of torque (again considering its only boosting at 0.8 bar with no real adjustment of the profecs gain levels, pretty healthy) Ignore the wiggles at the beginining of the graph, that just john going through the gears Plan of action is to hard wire a conzult cable into the loom close to the ECU to eliminate any possible breakages in the loom so john can get a consistant connection to map it properly

Good to see her all running again chap

For the reletavely low amount of boost it's running, yeah pretty pleased. Yeah deffo having it re done soon. Just got to hardware a conzult cable into the loom close the the ecu and then start again

Not mate I'm on holiday for JAE. Bit disappointed that something so silly stopped John from mapping it to its potential

I know..... But I was there when it was mapped!

exchange rate is fairly good at the moment, about 63p to the dollar. Id take a stab at £400 delivered, but for the sake of £100 difference between ebay specials to one of the most efficient sidemounts on the market, id know what id chose OR Id go for BAZZ's HKS sidemounts...... also very nicely made intercoolers

Hey Paul, Father in law is now ready to sell his GTO. Are you still looking? If so, i can forward you his contact number and you can make contact directly Thanks Nick

You could buy Z1 SMIC's for that amount at the current exchange rate

That's a fricking bargin!!

You wont need a front mout until your making over 600 horses running mahoosive turbos. Up to that point, side mounts are a much more efficient design! And to be honest, 2fast2cool stuff is cheap. its cheap for a reason, equally why well designed front mounts from GReddy, HKS etc etc etc cost a pretty penny. Infact i would put a significant amount of money on the fact that a set of decent side mounts would easily out perform an ebay front mount

Theyre exactly the same as 94+ zed calipers

Not all, some special fluids to exist, which i cant remember what their rating name is. But we cannot use them on road cars as they require all the seals to be made of a special material, similar reasons why you should never for DOT 5 in a road car, itll just eat all the seals in the system and pretty much destroy your whole braking setup As you probably know DOT 5.1 is technically the best brake fluid you can put in a road car, it has the highest boiling point lowest viscosity (its about half as viscous as DOT 4) and has the lowest volume change in relation to temperature (basically it doesnt expand or contract as much when hot/cold so it give a more consistant pedal feel and braking effort) My stock zed brakes are as close to mint as they can be, all new pistons seals sliders and pins, DS2500 pads and DBA 4000 discs, but the single biggest improvement in the braking department in terms of how the brakes feel and how much effort and pedal movement was required was the combination of braided lines and a complete system drain and replace with Motul DOT 5.1 - - - Updated - - - sorry, that should read "you should never use DOT 5 in a road car"

Personally, before you go the whole hog on a Big Brake Kit, and once you have ensured the calipers are in tip top order (no stuck pistons etc) put on braided brake lines and flush and replace the whole systems brake fluid (full system flush) and replace with decent quality fluid DOT brake fluid is "hydrophilic". This means the fluid will absorb water from the air. Rumor has it that you can fill a shot glass with DOT fluid and after an hour or so the glass will overflow. The DOT brake fluid absorbing moisture from the surrounding air causes the volume increase. This is why every container of DOT fluid requests that you keep it closed when not in use. As the fluid absorbs water its vaporization temperature (or boiling point) is reduced. DOT 4 becomes no better than DOT 3 and eventually degrades in performance to the level of DOT 2. Amazingly enough, a small amount of moisture will be absorbed right through rubber seals and nylon hydraulic lines (virtually any material except metal or glass). This is why car manufacturers recommend brake fluid replacement every two to three years

5w oil is pretty thin tbh, it could seep past your old seals. Change to a 10w and see what happens. Pre rebuild, mine was similar, started on one side but eventually spread to both. When the engine was stripped down there were no OBVIOUS signs of why it was smoking, but it had been combusting oil (burt residue on the piston crowns) However, the valve stem seals were dry and fairly brittle, so they looked like the most likely culprit Hope you find what ever is causing it

Yeah i know, was pondering what to do with it whilst giving the engine bay a buff up. Got to decide what to do with the various bolts that are on show aswell, and have a bit of a reorganise of the various cables and pipes to make it a bit tidier - - - Updated - - - and the balance bar...... you know what its like, the lists just keep growing!

Just wanted to put a quick thread regarding Jimmer ( aka PowerZed) Jimmer has a fantastic reputation as some of you may know, especially when it comes to his engine rebuilds. As my other thread kind of documented, his approach to his engine build is clinical and of that of a master surgeon. I was very specific with what sort of performance level i wanted the engine to be able to provide and how i wanted it to deliver that performance. Together, we worked through a wish list for parts and went through the pros and cons of those parts. I was a fairly extensive consulation process. He also proved to be very accommodating during, keeping me up to date with general progress, any issues and how he proposed to get around those problems. That in its own right is something pretty rare when it comes to garages and engine builders. I also asked him to do a few other bits and bobs that i had issues with that were not part of the engine build, which were completed to the same high quality. Obviously time and mileage will be overall judgement on the quality of the engine build, but if any of his other builds are to go by (and my build is by far not the most complicated or powerful) then the engine will have a strong life ahead of it. When John Dixon maps the engine in September, i will post up what sort of figures the engine is able to create and I hopefully I will have the most powerful 4 Bolt turbo'd zed in the UK (Jimmers car being the top of the tree when it comes 4 bolt turbo'd engines - that we know of) In summary, Massive thanks to Jimmer for all his hard work and help over the last 8 weeks or so. I know some of you may want to take your car to somewhere more local to where you live, but GOOD zed specialists are few and far between, but Jimmer is the Number 1 in the UK as far as im concerned And yes, i've been shim shammed Nick

yes mate :D