Everything posted by AndrewG
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Given that the rest of the car is done... Anyway, great news that things are now (literally) moving along. -
Well done Nick, great to see the old girl back on the road again! Would love to see the car in the metal soon.
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Currently up for auction in the US with bidding now at $25,000 with 6 days to run a very clean low mileage example. How high will bidding go? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1990-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-54/ Oh, and if that was my car and I saw how it had been lifted off the ground I would hit the roof!
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Is this for a Racelogic TC?
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This guide shows you how to trace a parasitic drain problem: https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain The boot light switch can be problematic (boot light and interior light staying on). Alarm not arming properly (fault in one of the sensor/triggers).
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My Z profile pictures shows the extra sidewall depth you get with 18" wheels and tyres. The Michelin PS4 tyres have quite flexible sidewalls compared to some other brands I have used.
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I'm running the KYB AGX Eibach combo. The Eibach springs have a 0.8" drop over OEM which removes the "4x4" look with larger than stock wheels. The picture below shows my car on OEM springs with 18" wheels before fitting KYB/Eibachs. The spring rates for OEM (US market) and Eibach springs. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1080906/300zx-OEM-Spring-Rates-Vs-Eibach-Aftermarket-Spring-Rates.html UK spec is TT Front: 146 lbs/in and TT Rear 146 lbs/in (from FSM)
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Welcome back Richard. Glad to see that you are OK. Here is a blast from the past for you (Japanese Tuner '06)!
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The odometer runs off the same signal path as the speedometer. Check the speed sensor wiring by the gearbox, the harness, connector (inc corrosion) and wires going into the sensor itself can get damaged and go o/c. Make sure the connectors on the back of the gauge cluster are properly seated and good. The speedo gauge itself has a signal processing function from the speed sensor (analogue) to the electronics for the ECU/HICAS/Power Steering/Cruise Control etc and the odometer and they do fail. Repair is difficult and replacement with another s/h working gauge is the only option. The FSM check for the speed sensor itself: el-44.pdf It is a bit of a haul but a trip to Jim@PowerZed near Bristol is the best bet to keep your car in fine fettle - it will be well worth the effort.
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The KYB catalog lists the 554104 for the Z31 300ZX (page 205) https://issuu.com/kybeurope/docs/2018_catalogue_-_shock_absorber The OEM Z32 rear shock will look like this: https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-shock-absorber-rear-twin-turbo-tt-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32-56210-30p25_p_3945.php and the KYB versions: https://conceptzperformance.com/kyb-excel-g-shock-rear-shock-nissan-300zx-z32-341151_p_10962.php https://conceptzperformance.com/kyb-741028-agx-adjustable-shock-rear-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32_p_1810.php UK spec Z32's have adustable rear shocks (two settings controlled by an acutator on top of the shock) which isn't actually used but is fitted by the factory. JDM specs don't have these. Otherwise the shocks are the same fittment. The UK spec actuators are redundant when fitting aftermarket rear shocks.
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Although Italy won the competition, this match result at Wembey left a certain Schadenfreude!
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Here: https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/topic/139080-what-did-you-do-to-your-zed-today/?do=findComment&comment=1613936
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You've checked the injector resistance (good is between 10 and 14Ω), the connector and wiring for No 2? The W/R (white/green) wire from ECU pin 110 has continuity to No 2 signal pin? +12v is present on the other pin? Check that the ECU connector is seated correctly. Assuming that +12v is getting to the connector, you can see if the ECU itself is sending a signal to No 2 by putting a 12V LED across the unplugged injector connector and starting the engine. See if the LED flashes. This will help confirm a no signal situation to the injector (if you don't see the LED flash, try swapping the LED around in case the LED's +12v and GND needs to be reversed).
Congratulations on your purchase David and the start of your Z32 journey! Where abouts are you located? Your profile is missing it.
Nissan parts diagram for 492 - power steering gear. Which parts? https://nissan.epc-data.com/fairlady_z/hz32/6037-vg30d/trans/492/
Many thanks for sharing your 53 seconds of Z happiness. Pretty damn good if I may say so!
The pads will cover up that when installed.
Chris, assuming that you are still interested in getting a Z32 after reading all of the above - this Club has been around since since 1999 and has helped many many people get the best out of their Z32 ownership journey and avoid some very expensive mistakes. The experienced members and trusted professionals are on hand to freely offer help, support and advice. Club Flyer.pdf
From the album: Project 1547 - Out of the Blue
From the album: Project 1547 - Out of the Blue
If it is more of a screeching sound then it could be the alternator belt slipping on the aftermarket crankshaft pulley. Made of aluminium they have a habit of polishing up where the belt runs and causing slippage. Usually when the car is started from cold and the alternator is under load from the start.
Sorry Tom, I can't make this one.
Looking good Tom, just need to swap over the rear wheels...
