lymon

reply sent.

there is NO visual difference between nismo 555's and stock 370's both are purple when bought new over time, both degrade in color to brown or darkish grey only real way to tell when not certain is by doing a flow test (you can do a rough flow test yourself)

Hi Vijay, you can put 2 (long) bolts in the 2 holes in the heart, near the studs This will push the disk from the hub. -Eric

> Is it possible to change just by jacking the front up or need a ramp ? I personally find it easiest to remove the radiator + fan it will give you good access to the alternator. remove the belt, remove the top bolt of the lower bracket, remove the main top bolt holding the alternator (the nut on the back of the alternator will usually fall on the ground) Remove the alternator and pull it forwards, undo all connectors/wires. the only PITA is putting back the nut securing the main bolt on the back of the alternator. Best is to move the alternator as far to the left as it will go, that way you can reach the back of the bolt holding the alternator and get the nut into position

>> I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the egr/aiv/prvr (carbon can?) delete. it shouldn't. The AIV isn't used with most aftermarket chips anyway, so leaving the hoses and hardware in will only increase the risk for vacuum leaks or hoses that connected the wrong way.. The PRVR is only used in rare occasions and removing it won't harm anything. It's important though that you bypass the PRVR the correct way by looping the input straight to the FPR. I almost always remove all aiv/prvr hardware and in some cases I also remove the egr when I (re)install an engine and never had any problems. In all cases the car ran better without it. For the carbon canister removal, it's important you block off the vacuum hose(s) and leave the fueltank breather hose open.

>> The timing seems to go 'out' for no apparent reason, I set it correctly (not using the loop on the PTU!), check it again at a later date and find it 10 or more degrees out! Could this be a CAS problem? yes, could very well be a faulty CAS or worn out camshaft tab. Although the fuel-hydrolock can definately have caused the belt to slip one or more teeth

sometimes it helps to make a few high speed stops. don't let the car come to a full stop, just brake hard..to the point the ABS wants to kick in. -Eric

yes, is a straight swap

>> FWIW: contact Eric at DTA-Motorsport in The Netherlands. correct, have one used set (in very good condition) and one brandnew set in stock

you mean subframe spacers ? http://specialtyz.com/suspension.htm

see this website: http://www.uniqueautosports.com/motor_sports.htm#PI1ST (click the project pages to see what they did to it...they are also using an accusump sytem) this zed is build for one purpose only: track racing (and apparently it's very good at it, as it has won many races and has set track records in Australia)

were the lifters replaced during the rebuild ? this because a bad/stuck lifter can also cause a valve to stay slightly open. -Eric

look here: http://carfiche.com/

all 300zx twinturbo models have a MAP sensor, it's used for the boostgauge on the dash. the later TT's with 32 bit ECU's have a seperate MAP sensor which is used for the ECU's seperate boostmap. I presume the blitz map analyser has something to do with this boostmap and can be used to interfere with the MAP sensor's signal, similar to what an Apexi AFC does with the MAF sensor's signal.

>> good tip any ideas which one? http://300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/co/co.html

http://specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm

No, it's missing 2 important connectors.

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1018361/FAQ-Transmission-Teardown-amp-Rebuild.html

No, the HI-power won't fit a LWB. For shorties only

I used to recommend the Profec B, but not so much anymore. I have installed quite a few and they seem to have a high failure rate lately...either DOA or they fail within 2 months. problem is it's usually the electronic part inside the main unit that controls the solenoid/valve....so when it fails it makes the boost shoot up until the engine goes bang. Blitz, Apexi or HKS controllers seem to be more reliable...

> So could you use NA pistons work in a TT engine to transform it into a NA with tunning porential I have never tried if NA pistons work/fit with TT heads and if it does I'm not sure with the compression ratio you'll end up with. As far as I know, the NA heads are part of the NA 10.5:1 compression..

try running a new wire straight from the DS headlight relay (the one labeled H/LAMP-RH) from the top of my head you either need to run a wire from pin 3 or 5 from the relay to the hid ballast

oilpump (higher capacity pump in TT), pistons (NA: domed, TT: dish) exhaust valves (inconel, sodium filled valves in TT , versus steel NA valves), heads (thickness and difference in ports, TT-heads have 40P stamped on the side, NA have 30P stamped)

>> Then, had all the geometry set. Drives perfectly, except when you accelerate quickly and the wheel then turns off centre. After a while (about 5 - 10 mins of driving), the HICAS light comes back on and the problem goes away. this usually indicates a problem with the steering wheel sensor. either sensor offset is wrong or sensor has failed. Other possibilities could be air in the HICAS system. (the procedure on how to bleed the system is in the service manual) or a problem with the steering rack bushings: if these have failed it can cause the steering rack to move freely, which can cause the steering wheel to go off center and cause the HICAS to go into failure mode. -Eric

next time the problem happens check the rev-counter on the dash. if it drops to zero or you see the needle bounce up and down violently, the problem is the CAS or it's wiring/connector.