lymon

>> difference in lag betweem the 2 would be negligable The Z1 600R turbos are actually GT2560R turbos (not GT2860R turbos) and a T28/T25 hybrid...the 2554R is a full T25 and smaller. The 2554R has near stock spoolup and especially with proper headwork/manifolds/downpipes these turbos can make it a very quick and nippy car. My experience is that the 2560's don't spool up near a quick as their little brother and if you lay out the VG30DETT over the 2560 compressor map you can see why. -Eric

>> "Europe version" to be LWB, and "US version" to be SWB.. correct

this the latest pricelist I got from Strosek (prices are in Euros) http://dta-motorsport.com/temp/strosek.gif

>> btw - Very expensive compared to the Various copies out there quality is also 10 times better then any of the copies out there... if you've ever seen the real kit versus a copy you know what I'm talking about.

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=1022867&postcount=2

As Ignition coilpacks do wear out, it's always a good idea to replace them, either by using new stock units or the splitfire units. The splitfires packs are cheaper then stock units (last time I checked), although you can also order just the coil part from Nissan. -Eric

check for loose/ripped hoses around the AIV and EGR solenoid area. It can also be caused by incorrectly connected hoses to/from these solenoids It sometimes helps pinpointing the issue by unplugging one or both solenoids to see if the problem becomes less or disappears

the skyline calipers are plug and play for both front and rear the 350Z are not: front calipers will fit after re-drilling the holes for the bolts (in the hubs) Rear calipers won't fit and need extensive modification/rewelding of the rear hubs

I never had any fitting problems with the 530's Some things like the heatshield and RH actuator-arm may be a tight fit, but I never had to modify anything. Don't have any experience with the GD manifolds though....maybe that is what's causing the fitment problems ? -Eric

Can be caused by a number of things, but it's usually a loose/corroded plug on the AAC valve, which controls idle rpm.

yes, it's different You can use a TT auto box/flexplate/TC/propshaft on a NA, but not the other way around.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/ http://www.mines-wave.com/ http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/ http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/ http://www.tommykaira.com/ http://www.g-doghouse.co.jp/ http://www.primaru.com/ http://www.pfc-z.com/

if the tensioner was replaced it should be still pretty clean...especially the hydraulic part on the top if it's dirty/oily and the pulley has a bit of play it was probably never replaced

>> trust me some of the det noises my z has made were loud, proper crackling. what chip are you using ??

20 minutes is too long...depending on the ambient temps it should take 10 minutes or so, but the standard temp. gauge is pretty useless. best way to see if your car really has "warming up" problems is by monitoring the temp with an accurate gauge or with conzult. operating temp is between 80 and 90 Celcius....anything below that temperature and the ECU still dumps extra fuel in. if it turns out you do have a delay in the warming up of the engine, the usual culprit is a faulty thermostat

> 2 days ago has it been standing for a long time ? was it low on oil ? did you notice it started to make this noise all of a sudden or did it happen while driving ?

yes, it will work without problems, but it will work better if it has a chip for a manual transmission. Problem with Mines ECU's is that the chip has a large blob of glue all over it and can't be swapped/changed on standard boost I doubt it will give you any extra power

yes

>> ok here you go. from today http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?...mov00308qt3.flv that definately doesn't sound like a stuck lifter...it sounds more like a rod bearing, but it could be just bad sound of the video. When did it start to make this noise ?

small trick I always use: cut of the flanges of the old EGR pipes, then put a small coin large enough to cover the holes in the plenum (eg. a 5 eurocent coin), put some sealant on the coin, bolt the old flanges back on, so they're holding the coin into place...done :)

yes, oops...I checked again and noticed the numbers I gave are for the non turbos. the TT cables are 40p00 and 40p10

>> The ecu can restrict the boost ie safety boost but not to 0 i dont think it can, if programmed to do so... but a boost-cut by the ecu is very violent...almost like hitting the brakes >> yeah the engine would run like a 1 legged donkey with a siezed turbo. you would think so, but it won't. I have seen several Zeds with one or 2 seized turbos and they all ran fine, just lack of boost. I also know someone that bought a Zed with a seized turbo and wasn't told about it He drove it around for years like that, thinking it was normal, because the car drove fine..

It sounds like one of the turbos has decided to give up (seized)...and it's probably coincidence it happened just after you replaced the AFM...but it won't hurt to try another AFM if that doesn't cure the problem, remove the downpipes from the turbos and see if both turbos can be spinned freely. -Eric

looks like it's 24110-42p10 for the AT one and 24110-42p00 for the MT one

be careful with those ebay chips. most I have seen just removed some limiters and left all maps standard...which is very risky business: you might as well run 1 bar on a stock ECU and pray for the best. it's better to spend a bit more and buy a well proven chip from one of the traders or people on here that are well known for their chips (eg. John Dixon)