lymon

you may have a problem with the climate control unit or one of it's sensors. there's a small valve on the heater matrix, which is controlled by the CCU, that regulates the amount of hot coolant flowing through the matrix. Sounds like it's keeping the valve shut for some reason.. have the climate control checked with a conzult, it may help diagnose what's causing the issue

>> Was wondering if someone could tell me if the NA only has 4 bolts onto its diff? yes, NA has 4 bolts, TT one has 6 (hex) bolts >>And is the propshaft 3s71a in the online manual for an NA? yes, NA= 3S71A, TT= 3S80A-VL107 >> And how many bolts for the prop on the back of the gearbox, ?? the propshaft just slides into the gearbox..there are no bolts to hold it in the gearbox. Maybe you have just a half shaft and the front part of the propshaft is missing ?

apart from the map sensor for the boost gauge, serie 3 twinturbos have another map sensor, under the nose panel.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

> that was the first thing I went for There is no smell of burnt oil and the level is ok. doesn't sound good... you could clean/replace the filter as a last resort (you'll have to drop the oilpan of the transmission to be able to access the filter)...or start looking for a new transmission

> how did you fix the rails to the plenum eric? currently with zip ties :D but I'll have some fittings welded to the plenum so I can secure the rails better and it will look nicer :)

I used an universal fuel rail like this one http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ACC%2D74734%2D2&N=700+4294849383+115&autoview=sku and some universal rail adapters fitting:

>> but I thought it affected early ('89) heads on our cars too. correct...not a very common problem though if the timingbelt has slipped one or more tooth it can be noticed in lack of performance and detonation/pinging for no reason if the car drives fine and the engine runs very nice, it is a faulty cas in most cases

those compression figures are very good. does it actually overheat ? have your changed coolant to see if the oil re-appears ?

top 2 pictures: Power steering/HICAS control unit middle 2 pictures: ATCU (automatic transmission control unit) bottom 2 pictures: CCU (cruise control unit)

yes, I have done it using skyline topfeed injectors and it works fine. it's a cheap solution, but won't win a beauty contest though :D it's similar to the injector setup on the Z31, which uses topfeed injectors also. The fuelrail is on top of the plenum, with small hoses running to the injectors. I don't have any pictures of my setup, but it looks very similar to this: hoses running from the injectors: and with plenum installed , with the 2 fuelrails on top:

>> I reckon it is more likely to be the actuators rather than the wastegates as these are so simple it is unlikely that they are obstructed. I have seen cheapo chinese divorced downpipes where the piece that seperates the turbine from the flapper area had come loose preventing the flapper to fully open.

replacing the actuators in situation is a very hard job and from the top of my head, the RH actuator is near impossible to replace with the turbo still attached to the engine... I'd recommend to remove the downpipes first and check if the wastegate flappers can move freely, by putting some compressed air (approx. 8 psi) on the hoses to the actuators. Maybe something is obstructing one or both of the flappers

>> Ah well that clears it up then looks like conzult (the expensive one!) is less compatible depends on what version you have the conzult-SX works on most Nissans. the conzult-Z32 version only works on the Z32. if you have bought the full conzult package, it has both versions on the CD.

>> once there disonnected from rad do u have to block the rad holes no. oil will drip out for a while, but it's just the oil that's left in the heat exchanger

>> I think the problem lies with the actuators/wastegates I don't think so, otherwise it wouldn't be able to boost to a stable 7 psi either Have you checked the small vacuum line to the controller isn't kinked somewhere ? This isn't uncommon and can cause weird behaviour of the boost controller.. This can cause the controller

there are two 12mm hoses under the alternator going to the radiator. These are the original lines to the ATF heat exchanger in the radiator. Easiest is to route these 2 hoses straight to an external oil cooler. Other and better way is to route one of these hoses to the external cooler and route the other line from the external cooler back into the heat exchanger of the radiator (to the point the old hose connected to)

the lines are really expensive, if you buy them new from Nissan. And it's hard to find used ones that are good and undamaged. the work to replace the lines takes a day or so: -rear subframe/exhaust/driveshaft have to be removed to give good access to the lines in full length -the interior in the trunk has to be removed (to give good access to the ABS pump) -all panels in the front wings have to be removed

(light) brown is usually a sign of rust (caused by filling the rad with plain water instead of coolant). In stock configuration, the only place where the ATF can come into the coolant is in the rad itself, and only if the heat exchanger in te rad is leaking. if the car has an external ATF cooler then it's probably not ATF you see in the coolant

I have had conzult working on Linux using "wine" (windows emulator for linux) Datascan probably also works that way. conzult executable is approx. 550 kb in size -Eric

> i got lost with that after 20 seconds. :D a zemulator might not be a good option for you then either For any realtime tuning application you need to have knowledge of how the ECU works and what each parameter/map does or stands for. > Just how advanced are the capabilities of the stock ECU Our stock ECU is good enough for most applications when in the right hands ;) I even use our ECU's to run tuned R33's on nowadays and prefer it over a PowerFC

A> looks like the engine doesn't reach operating temperature, so first suspect is either the temperature sensor or thermostat B>looks like both O2-sensors are dead, but it's hard to see from static pictures. C> the ECU is struggling to keep the idle up, so I presume the base idle is set too low (can be set with the conzult as well)

yes, it's basically the AFC2 with a fancy full color display

Get a Nistune type 2 board...it does the same thing but better: no external cables and boxes sticking out of your ECU and the realtime programming/monitoring is through the consult port It also comes with better software http://home.aanet.com.au/nistune/

> Im looking for more acceleration & big power in the mid range rather than top end to be honest. "big power" as in "more power" or as in totally uncontrollable car ? for more power and more acceleration look at increasing compression (9:1-9.5:1) + GT2554R's + NA diff. It also helps to put your Zed on a diet... -Eric