lymon

NA and TT bottom ends are exactly identical, except for the following parts: oilpump, oil squirters and pistons (and less important, the exhaust manifold stud pattern is slightly different)

you can run with the maf disconnected, but it'll only work with standard injectors. it's not recommended though: the engine will run very rich (even more with larger injectors) and you risk bore-wash when driving around like that for too long. -Eric

more detailed pictures of one of the IMSA/GTO Zeds:

>> So the signal must go from the speed sensor to the ecu, then clocks then back again? no, the speedsensor provides the signal for the clocks, the clocks convert the signal (to a pulse signal) and send it to the ecu...so the ecu is last in line. So if you have a persistant code 14, my first suspect would be the clocks. even if the informeter or whatever diagnostic tool reads the speed correct, there still can be an abnormal/stagnating signal from the clocks to the ECU. -Eric

stock 370cc are purple when new, in time the will fade to brownish/green Nismo 555cc are purple when new, in time the will fade to brownish/green so in short you will not be able to visually tell what kind of injectors you have...you can only tell if they are old or new injectors by the colour. Most reliable way (imo) is by looking at the data in the ECU, the socalled K-value tells you what injectors the ECU is programmed for. The conzult software will show this K-value. -Eric

Just saw this at tt.net and I'm not sure if it is legit, but it sounds like it... http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2221974/Assistance-Requested-in-London-UK.html he may have more luck finding someone overhere. -Eric

>> 1996 onwards are OBDII 96 US zeds are obd2 compatible and have 2 diag plugs (both the grey DDL that all Zeds have and a white OBD2 plug). It was made obd2 compliant in the US only because of strict US regulations. all other zeds (europe/japan/australia) were OBD1 up to the last model ('99)

HID's + bigger brakes

>> the missing part of the plan is an alternative site for the sidelights? What I did: drilled an extra hole in the 99-spec indicator pod (or corner light, or whatever they're called) and put in an ultra bright LED, that I now use as side lights. It's basically similar as to the motorcycle headlight in a few posts up. Lately I have also been tjinking about getting a pair of those new LED type daytime running lights (see picture below) and mount/hide those in the upper corners of the intercooler ducts.

>> Not scrimping on anything nor am I disputing the benefits of a chip go run flat out for 15-20 seconds, running 14+ psi of boost on a stock ECU, 15+ year old car/engine/fuel-system and see what happens....

it's one of those things on the Zed nobody really knows what it's for.....except Nissan (I think) all Z32's came with it originally and if you still find the restrictor in the filter, there's a good chance the filter has never been replaced since the car came out of the factory. The restrictor probably has something to do with the flow through the filter itself: because of the restrictor, fuel will flow slower through the filter, so it filters slightly better...but that's only a theory it won't make any difference if you leave it in or not...most throw it away when replacing the filter. -Eric

NA camshafts (MT/AT) are the same as the MT twinturbo camshafts

did you connect the fuel hoses correctly ? (eg. swapped feed/return)

Wilwood are good brakes, but one thing that I really don't like about them is the fact that the Wilwood calipers don't have the dust covers protecting the pistons in the calipers. This may/will lead to stuck pistons over time and even more so in countries were salt is used to de-ice roads during wintertime. -Eric

>> if it helps i will put up word for word what the guide says but without the pics! please remove the above material/section. The conzult manual is copyright protected !! -Eric (writer of the conzult software and manual)

>> Does anyone know the difference between a Auto loom and a Manual The AT loom has an extra connectors. >> If the loom i bought is for a Auto can i still use it for my manual?? Yes, you can use an AT loom in a MT car, but not the other way around. (Just like you can't use a MT ECU in an AT car) -Eric

-remove radiator -remove fan + clutch -get the pulley of the pas pump in the right position, so you can loosen the top bolt (size 14) holding the pump. -release PS belt tensioner -remove belt -remove tensioner bracket -remove top bolt -remove pump from bracket -remove PS hose banjo bolts from pump putting it back is the other way around. after all is back together top up radiator and PS reservoir (with ATF3 oil) and start engine. To get the air out of the PS-system fully turn steeringwheel left to right several times Best is to do this with the front of the cars lifted (wheels from the ground)...as this also the best way to get any trapped air from the radiator/cooling system.

A heavier flywheel helps in getting more low end torque and a more stable idle and in some cases better fuel economy (especially for city driving) A heavier flywheel is a not an uncommon modification for smaller displacement engines. As the VG30DETT is already an engine with quite a bit of (low end) torque, it won't really matter. (I think) Although I must admit I have never tried a heavier (then stock) flywheel on a Zed. One thing that is noticeable with a lighter flywheel, is the engine comes more alive and revs (much) easier and I have certainly no regrets of the fidanza flywheel I have on my Zed.

>> Any idea why I was told to remove the 2 together my experience is that it's easier when you remove both together. if you leave the TC on, you have very little room to remove the box, as you first have to move the gearbox quite a bit backwards to clear the TC

>> T piece im assuming these are the hoses that go to the aiv tanks, Can i disconnect these? Just want to be certain yes, as you have disconnected the AIV solenoid these hoses have become obsolete as well. can't really hear what the problem is in the video, as the soundquality is very poor, but do both throttlebodies open the same amount and at the same moment ? (or in other words: are they synchronized ?) >> but when you reconnect the connector it shoots back up to 800-850 or so? this is normal..the ECU will try to get the idle close to 850 rpm when the engine has warmed up. You can try is to disconnect the secondary TPS connector (the one on a seperate wire) for 10 seconds while the engine is running. This will reset the throttle switch setting in the ECU.

fuelpumps usually don't fail all of a sudden...in most case it's the FPCU. bypass it iss a 30min job and no special tools and parts needed: LWB: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.369 or SWB: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.370 if that doesn't work find another pump. -Eric

it's for the stock EGT (exhaust gas temperature) sensor, which is only on Z's from California. -Eric

>> What would happen if I were to push it, just out of curiosity? nothing. just less power then you would have with good upgraded intercoolers

> is the import different to uk? My experience is that Euro-spec AT's seem to fail far less then the import boxes and when they do fail they have run at least twice the mileage... This may be due to the fact that the Euro/UK spec cars have a better heat exchanger, so better cooling for the box. Anyway, physically all TT autoboxes (EURO/UK/US/JAP) are the same and are interchangable. the non turbo automatic gearbox (+ driveshaft) is different. it can be made to fit a TT, but it won't last very long.