lymon

> Also, I would like to know how to lock the ignition on 16 bit ecu via the ConZult.....interested. Timing should be locked as soon as you change the timing in the "MAIN SIGNALS" window Best is change timing by a couple of degrees and try to make the engine run smooth if possible, to avoid stalling

what year car ? For cars with 16 bit ECU's this is normal and you need to lock the timing with conzult, before you can accurately measure it.

> This is why I was asking if anyone knew the correct hole distance for our cars. front caliper mount/bolt spacing for many Nissan models (eg. z32/z33/r32/r33/r34/s14/s15) is 100 mm looks like on your calipers it shows to be around 81 mm, so I don't think that is a R33 caliper

it'll be fine to replace with a silicone hose. You could also bypass those hoses running back and forth to the throttlebody and EGR/AIV solenoids and get rid of that whole spaghetti of hoses (and chances for small leaks) around that side of the engine.

you can use a 350z brembo rebuild kit for r33/r34 gtr calipers. Nissan partnumber for the 350z kit is 41120-12U25 contains all seals, dustboots, etc. this picture shows all the separate parts (and partnumbers) in the kit: partnumber for the R33 GTR is AY600-NS057, but may be harder to get. (and probably a lot more expensive)

>So heres a couple of power balance results, i asume one cylender is too high and one too low? Does this help me? if unsure, do the test several times...but let the engine settle between tests. Best is not to blip the throttle between tests as it may cause unreliable results or the engine may stall. if the same cylinder comes up lower then the others during multiple tests, then that cylinder probably has some sort of issue. Either low(er) compression or a faulty injector/sparkplug/coil > And a graph showing an acelerator blip followed by it trying to stall, is this normal? Yes, this is normal , but see previous answer about accelerator blipping during balance test or when adjusting base idle Stalling may occur since the IACV (idle control valve) is disabled during these tests. > Finaly , i seem to remember o2 sensor readings should alternate up and down , mine are static at idle and start to move around 1500 revs, is this right? Most of the older 300's up to 1993 or so, don't run in closed loop at idle. Meaning the O2-sensor readings are not used to adjust the air-fuel ratio at up to 2000 rpm or so. Regarding troubleshooting your misfire problem, there are few things to look for. Check the IACV percentage at idle and fully warmed up engine, ideally it should be at or near 15%..I've seen some cars never get below 17%, not sure why, but this is fine also. If it is (much) higher, First check for air/vacuum leaks, clean throttle bodies, clean injector connectors and check mechanical ignition timing (should be 15 BTDC at idle) These are the most common suspects for misfires or a lumpy idle. After doing these checks, see what the iacv percentage is and if it's still too high, you will need to adjust base idle.

forgot the link: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/786419/TECH-Detonation-Sensor-Relocation.html

You should not be "playing" with the TPS to adjust the idle...the TPS is called a "throttle position sensor" for a reason and needs to be at a certain position (so it outputs around 0.45 Volt) There is a idle adjustment screw at the back of the engine and this should be used to adjust the idle. replacing the knock sensor with the engine in the car is quite a bit of work and not a beginners job. Not sure how one can replace the knock sensor without removing the lower intake (and EGR-valve), as there is no way you can reach it without removing these. Easier option would be a relocation, although not the ideal option, but better then no or a bypassed sensor

here's a slightly better video showing this particular method:

The "plastic bag" method actually also works well (as long as you have standard valve springs) Only video I could find at the moment: (fast forward to 1:20) It needs some practice and best is to use a piece of EPDM or rubber instead of the plastic bag, but after you've mastered this method, installing those 48 keepers is a 15 minute job

monitoring sensor values and reading errorcodes work with just the ignition on. For actual diagnostics, it is preferred to have the engine running.

not sure what that steering angle is about...I have never seen it that high. Almost looks like the angle sensor has failed or something..or maybe a faulty HICAS ECU (because of the vhcl speed issue) Does the value change when you turn the wheel ? ...or maybe try a different HICAS ECU Also the HICAS ecu expects a rpm signal from the (original) engine ECU, but as you have a haltech that is not going to work anymore, unless it has programmable output that can be used to generate a similar RPM signal for the HICAS to recognize and use. (PS: There's a slight change the missing RPM signal is the cause of all these faulty readings.)

before welding that nut/pipe in place make sure you have taken all precautions to avoid the car from burning down to the ground !! ...keep in mind that particular manifold is very close to the (main) fuel lines and usually there's a lot of (flammable) oil residue in that area also.

According to the picture/screenshot, your base idle is probably set too low. AAC value needs to be a steady 15% @ idle. try setting base idle to 850 rpm..this is usually ok for most 300's

Just bolt the exhaust and intake valve covers together with a piece of wood/triplex sandwiched in between the 2 covers (hope this makes sense, as I don't have a picture) and have it powder coated that way. Works fine and I've had numerous covers powder-coated that way. ....unless you want each cover in a different color ? :wacko:

Better to follow the instructions in the service manual then trusting some youtube videos. It's quite easy to do more harm then good, as some parts need special procedures for removal (eg. heads/oilpan/camshafts/crankshaft/pistons/etc.) Same goes for re-assembly. If a good clean is basically your most important goal, then you won't need to strip the whole (core) engine. I'd just degrease the outside as much as possible, remove the oilpan and give it a good clean on the in/outside, check/clean the oilpickup for sludge/debris, reseal the exhaust camshaft covers (and oilpan), put in new cam & crankshaft seals, replace/reroute/bypass all smaller coolant hoses around the engine, if necessary replace the knock-sensor(cable) and maybe do some other things like EGR removal and a (lower) plenum cleanup. If the engine has noisy/sticky lifters, you could choose to replace those as well. My experience is that cleaning old lifters may not always work and you may end up with an engine that still has noisy/ticking lifters...sometimes even worse then before.

-- EDIT Sorry Jeff you know the rules, He's not Subscribed so technically this is trading.

I have a few LHD radio surrounds and other LHD interior parts. What parts do you need exactly ?

Has the car been mapped from scratch with the Nistune board or did they copy the maps and settings from John's chip/maps ? You can try starting it with disconnected temp sensor and see if it makes a difference. Aux. fan will turn on, but ignore that.

The rev counter gets it's signal from the main engine ECU. Do you have any electronics in the car that also show RPM ? (eg. piggybacks or Apexi gear, AVCR/AFC) These devices are usually connected to that same RPM signal wire and may interfere with the signal to the cluster. Also, this same signal wire is also connected to the consult port and some cheaper consult cables short this pin/wire, which can cause all sorts of weird issues similar to this.

see dealers on http://conzult.com/ conceptz and Z1 both sell Conzult and Datascan packages, which is a good quality (Nistune) cable + either conzult or datascan software. you can also buy the cable from ebay/Aliexpress/etc and purchase just the software, which works out cheaper. Although these cheap/chinese cables can be hit or miss and might not work correctly, but you can try these cables with the free conzult version (see conzult website for download). If the free version works with the cable, the full version will work also.

Free version of Conzult only does the left sensor on a Z32. Full version does both

H-tune claim to be "UK's cheapest Energy Suspension dealer, distributor and reseller." https://h-tune.co.uk/ So you could call/email them to see if they can get the tension/radius rod bushes for you, but it will probably be similar or more in price as getting it from the US yourself. you can also go for whiteline performance bushings...these are a well known brand also and should have better availability in the UK if you don't want to buy from US eg. did a quick search : http://id-workz.co.uk/nissan/300zx/chassis-suspension/whiteline-radius-strut-rod-to-chassis-bushing-cc-300zx-z32 full UK dealer list: http://www.whiteline.com.au/dealer_REGION.php?locale=UK&description=United%20Kingdom&type=country

The Nistune FLEX fuel option is for E85 fuel. (bio-ethanol) One of the best fuels for turbo-charged cars (car needs to be tuned/prepared for it though) ...I don't know if E85 is (still) available in the UK. it used to be available at some stations in Holland, but they stopped selling it