lymon

Can of worms, but I have yet to see an electric fan that can keep a Zed's engine cool(ish), especially on hot days or during "spirited" driving if you have completely removed the aircon system (and the condensor in front of the radiator) you can give the electric fan system a try, but otherwise it's best is to stick with the viscous fan (imo) If you have a japanese imort then the loose belt is probably caused by the retraction stopper in the mechanism and it actually is supposed to do that. the retraction stopper is activated as soon as you clip in the belt and is deactivated again when unclipping the belt. To see if that's causing your loose belt issue , unclip the belt while holding it in place and see if it retracts and pulls tight again. the tailgate knocking problem: do you still have the 2 rubber stoppers on the tailgate ? if they are missing, then that's the cause of your knocking problem..if they are still there, you can try to put some extra material on the stoppers, so it holds the tailgate in place/position better.

yeah, that happens when you put plain water in the system. the brown stuff is rust-particles and you need to flush the system asap.

may not be the cause of the problem, but in the youtube video it looks your tps-sensor is not set correctly (in the video it looks like it's at 0.60 V @ idle) needs to be approx. 0.44V. After setting the TPS to the correct voltage you will need to reset the TPS value in the ECU by unplugging the grey plug on the TPS with the engine running. The engine will idle slightly higher once you unplug and then settle back to normal, this means the TPS setting has been cleared and you can plug it back in. Next thing to check is the IACV value. in the video it looks like it sits at around 30-40% while it needs to be at near 15% at idle. The higher value can be caused by several things, but first try to adjust idle by turning the idle-screw on the IACV outwards. While turning the screw outwards, idle should increase and IACV percentage should slowly decrease. If you can't get it near 15% at idle or the idle doesn't seem to do anything while turning the screw, something else is wrong. Then in most cases it's a split or loose hose somewhere around the balance bar area.

first connector to check is the one from the temp-sensor

plugging that hose is not advised ! especially not with the hotter weather for the next few days. the pressure in the coolant system may get too high and split another hose and cause more serious problems. as a temp solution you can remove the original overflow tank and use an empty plastic coke bottle or something similar, taped/tie-wrapped in the spot where the original overflow tank sits and use that bottle as a spare tank for the next few days. (do not put a cap on the bottle) Also make sure the hose sits at the bottom of the bottle.

go ahead and have your car identified with the "fairlady" image ! :laugh:

you can get vpower (100RON) and 102 RON in Germany (near the ring also, last time I was there)

you can get vpower (100RON) and 102 RON in Germany (near the ring also, last time I was there)

left is a EURO (LHD) tree (with sender removed), right one is a JDM (RHD) Tree ...the JDM/RHD tree seems more robust/sturdier and filter sits at a slightly different angle.

left is a EURO (LHD) tree (with sender removed), right one is a JDM (RHD) Tree ...the JDM/RHD tree seems more robust/sturdier and filter sits at a slightly different angle.

I have never seen a tree like that before. Certainly not a EURO-spec tree.

I have never seen a tree like that before. Certainly not a EURO-spec tree.

not sure what you mean by "short", but if you have a couple of days, I will take a picture of a JDM filter-tree vs a EURO-spec one. I'm currently rebuilding 2 engines, a JDM-spec and a EURO-spec. I can't remember the tree being any different, other then the oil-pressure sender on the JDM engine is installed on the LH turbo oil feed, where in LHD engines it is installed on the tree itself. (but on both type engines it can be swapped to either location as there's a blanking plug/screw that can be removed, so the sender can be installed there)

not sure what you mean by "short", but if you have a couple of days, I will take a picture of a JDM filter-tree vs a EURO-spec one. I'm currently rebuilding 2 engines, a JDM-spec and a EURO-spec. I can't remember the tree being any different, other then the oil-pressure sender on the JDM engine is installed on the LH turbo oil feed, where in LHD engines it is installed on the tree itself. (but on both type engines it can be swapped to either location as there's a blanking plug/screw that can be removed, so the sender can be installed there)

Oh, and to answer your question regarding the EURO tree: it is exactly the same as the US Twinturbo oiltree (there are no EURO-spec NA's)

I have checked the JDM Nissan parts database for you and there are only 2 different oil trees used for JDM engines from 1989 up to 1998. 15238-30P10, which is the NA variant without oilcooler connections and the 15238-40P11, which is the TT variant with oilcooler connector maybe you have a modified NA tree and the previous owner had an external oil-filter/cooler re-locator kit. I have seen this on a few modified JDM engines/cars

the coolant pipes getting very hard can just be trapped air, which is common after a large coolant refill. Try leaving both radiator cap and bleed screw off, start the engine and let it gradually get up to operating temperature while slowly filling the radiator with coolant Once the radiator won't take anymore coolant, put back bleed screw and rad.cap I presume the warping of the head(s) occured after overheating the engine ? If the heads were distorted that much, the engine must have been extremely hot and it may have glazed some of the bores. (But this could/should have been inspected before putting the skimmed heads back on.)

max. limit for resurfacing the heads (and block) is 0.1mm. If I understand correctly you skimmed the heads 0.4mm ? ..which is far outside the limit and if the head needed to be resurfaced that much, it was very distorted and it would have been better you replaced it. the smoking can be caused by many things.. Does it burn oil or coolant ? Does it smoke from cold or does it take a while ? also what do you mean by " the pipes are very hard ( air in pipes)" ?...or do you mean the coolant hoses ?

TT injectors in a NA work and the engine will run, but it runs VERY rich (overfueling of near 40%) Though you can have the NA ECU modified to make it run correctly on TT injectors.

bypassing the FPCU means the pump will always run at full blow/speed (and as a side effect the pump will be a little bit noisy) It shouldn't have any effect on the fuel-pressure, unless your pressure regulator is shot. for most aftermarket pumps it is recommend to bypass the FPCU, but a 20+ year old standard pump is not going to appreciate it suddenly has to work at 100% all the time and it'll wear out faster. (and a second hand FPCU is probably cheaper then a new pump)

a defective CAS can be diagnosed quite easily: start the car, do you see the tach moving while turning over, YES: CAS is ok, NO: CAS (may be) defective if the CAS is ok, then it could be a defective PTU (Igntion Power transistor) or as you mention, the FPCU (fuel pump controller) has gone. Try a good clean of the pins of the PTU first, sometimes it's just corrosion and a good clean with a dremel or sandpaper makes it work again The FPCU can be (temporarily) bypassed to get the car going again (search on here or google) The pump can only be heard priming after the engine has been off for at least a couple of hours. It's rare for the pump itself to stop working completely all of a sudden...you should have had other signs before, like lack of power, very hard to start and other similar symptoms

Those are TT injectors judging by the color. they fade from purple to grey to brown over time NA injectors are red and can not be mistaken by TT injectors (unless you are color blind)

>> - 12 Month Warranty- PROFESSIONALLY re-manufactured that's what should set of alarm bells If you already bought these, have them flow/spray tested before install. In many cases they are NOT flow tested (although stated) and have a flow pattern that's worse then a broken shower head.

That's normal. Seen it many times where the wheels are (slightly) wider then the body... (it's also the only way see the slight miss-alignment of the frame.)

As shown in the picture I posted, the top port of the greddy external wastegates needs to be connected to the boostcontroller solenoid (COM side), the secondary/lower port connects directly to the pressure side of the turbo (as close to the turbo as possible, before intercooler)