lymon

Has the ECU been chipped ? once the problem starts and you do a full ignition/engine off, wait 10 seconds and turn ignition/engine back on, does the issue disappear (for a while) ?

yes, NA injectors remain red and don't have the color fading/changing problem

top is a TT injector, bottom is a NA injector http://z32.wikispaces.com/Fuel+Injector

if you mean early style injectors: NA injectors are red TT injectors are purple when new, but fade to a brownish color over time.

Yes, 16 psi as base boost sounds more reasonable.

Oh, what do you mean as I don't fully understand: > Been like that pretty much forever since someone was messing with it years ago. and in your first post you said you have just bought the Greddy Profec on ebay ? How can it have been like that for years when you have just bought the unit ? Or did it have a different boostcontroller before ?

it "seems" your base boost is set at approx 23.5 psi. Not sure how much boost it was mapped for and what kind of turbos you have (greddy TD-series ?), but it seems a tad high. As said before, best is to just bypass the solenoid or verify if the NO (normally open port) is indeed open/ blow through and connect it temporarily back to the NO port and disconnect the electrical connector of the solenoid. This should give you base boost as well. if it's a (lot) lower then 23.5 psi, then most likely your boost controller is shot. (I have seen quite a few problems with the Profec B S2's, as in where the main unit doesn't control the solenoid anymore)

sorry, should read: use the NC (normally closed) port..

with external wastegates you are supposed to connect it to the NC (normally closed) port...

https://arizonazproject.wordpress.com/ http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328389

coolant temp sensor partnumber: 22630-51E00 or 22630-51E02 I would have a good look at the connector for the sensor first (and maybe replace it), most likely that's the one causing the error and not the sensor itself.

correct oil for the manual transmission is 75W90 GL4 (box takes a little under 3 liter)

what kind of gear-oil are you using in the box ? sounds like it's too thick (when cold)

dual port actuator helps the wastegate stay closed longer until desired boost level. Some single port actuators (like the standard actuator) can struggle to get a stable boost or even reach a certain boost at high boost levels, because the exhaust gas pressure forces the wastegate to open.

Did you inspect the tires ? (eg. for sidewall damage/pothole damage/heavy cupping) or maybe one of the wheels is not fully round or out of balance in some way ? A propshaft that is out of balance or has a failed center bearing usually only causes vibration at a certain speed and then fades out at higher/lower speeds. A center bearing that is completely shot makes a knocking sound (usually at low speeds only).

the alternator + loom is not really necessary, unless you also want to charge the battery you are using while the engine is running (just for a couple of minutes I presume) You will need a fuelpump to provide the fuel or, if you just want the engine to idle, a handpump will also work, The ECU needs several 12V lives and grounds...easiest is to use the ground loops and main power connectors from the main EFI wiring harness. if you are not using the original EFI harness it will be very hard to get it running as some parts (eg. the coils) need a separate power source. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=104&design=default&total=190 http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=118&design=default&total=190 Preferably the ECU also needs a start signal from a starter switch or something, otherwise it will be very hard to fire the engine up. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=144&design=default&total=190 -Eric

Does cruise control work ? if not, the problem is most likely your speedo unit...it doesn't output the pulse signal (2P) that is needed/used by several ECU's to determine vehicle-speed

I can have a look at your consult as well if you want.. if so, best contact me offline (see my email-address in an earlier post)

> Any idea's ??? Ok, I had another go at a consult I have here that also has the error 200. if you long-press the on-button it will show error 200 and if you turn it on by pressing the on button very shortly, it will show a bad directory error. If yours also does that, you could try this: by using the same principle, hold the 2 upper corners and shortly press the on button You should get the factory reset screen. after loading the firmware from the card (takes about 10-15 minutes) and I restarted the thing I got a bad NICD battery error...which is basically the same as error 200 I then removed the battery for a while and put it back in and then all of a sudden it worked and the consult got into the main menu....weird ! So, might be worth a try for your consult as well.

> Any idea's ??? No, not really...there aren't any schematics of these things afaik You could try to replace the 2 caps (C1 & C2) that are connected to the minus side of the battery pack. To the plus side there's TR17, which is probably a transistor or voltage regulator of some kind, so this could also be the cause of your error. Though I have no idea what TR17 is exactly, as there's no writing on it. Have you tried what happens if you connect it to the car and then start it up ? Maybe the power it gets from the car is a way to bypass the error...

Are you sure you did the reset procedure correct ?...it sometimes needs a few tries: while holding/touching the upper corners of the screen push the on (I) button To test if it's actually doing something is to power up the consult while touching the middle part of the screen : a small melody will sound. If that works, then maybe the contrast of the display is set too low and the display won't show anything.. the small screw/knob on the front (above the screen) is for setting the contrast. turn it all the way clockwise and try again. This may be a long shot, but I had one case where the on-button itself was broken (didn't make contact for some reason) These buttons are the same type as used in TV remote controls. I opened up the consult and flipped the little rubber on/off keypad and then I could turn it on (but not off) PS : the consult won't power up if the AC adapter is still connected, so always leave it disconnected when you want to use the consult "offline". if all this fails, I can have a look at it... but you will need to send it to me in Holland. I still have a couple of spare parts left of consult 1 units, so I may be able to fix it if it's something more serious. Contact me offline if you want me to have a look at it : eric -at- 300zx-twinturbo.com

oh and you can also charge the battery pack by connecting the consult to the car...but you will need to leave the engine/ignition on for a couple of hours, so might not be the easiest and most convenient solution :wink:

on the original charger there are 2 green leds, one is on permanently as soon as you plug the charger into mains. the other led (CHARGING) is on when you plug it into the consult and turns off when the battery is fully charged. If the CHARGING led never turns off, then this is usually another indication the main battery pack is about to die. I have never tried another (non genuine) charger, but I suppose any 6v (min. 150mah) NiMH-NiCd charger should work...eg. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371145122088

oh, I forgot: it sometimes helps to bring the consult back to life by removing both main and backup battery for 24 hrs and then use the factory reset procedure....this will wipe the memory clean completely.

> which side makes it the cleanest job to get to the old cells easily without making a complete mess of the pack? if you look closely to the side that has the sticker, you'll see it's actually a lid that has been glued in. With a sharp knife and some patience you can remove the lid again and in some cases re-use it after you have replaced the batteries > Where is the backup battery located and what power rating is that one? It's under the card holder. (be careful not to damage the flatcable when removing the card holder!) >Presently with 4 AA batteries it still won't power up at all. if you are sure the repaired battery pack is fully charged and the consult still won't power up, you should try the factory reset procedure as I have posted earlier