lymon

Is the fuse ok (kickpanel, bottom row, 3rd from the left, 15A -> EPS/HICAS) are the motors working ? (just connect 12v to them and window should be going up or down)

sounds like a failed VTC cam gear or failed t-belt tensioner causing slack/play in the t-belt (if you have removed the covers, you should be able to see the tensioner) > VTC part of the timing gear or can it be replaced separate? if the gear has failed, then you will need to replace it completely. but check/replace the small VTC springs first (behind the plates on the VTC timing gear) and see if that makes a difference in sound. Did it sound like this all of a sudden or is there a story behind it ?

Looks much better now ! nice ! :thumbup:

gearbox being weaker is all "internet hear say"...it's actually quite a good box and I doubt it's weaker then a 300ZX box. The 350Z rally team we have here in Holland only breaks axles and diffs..we haven't had a gearbox fail yet Howver, it needs a fair bit of parts and modding to get it into a 300X. http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=910539 gear ratio comparison: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/910730/6-speed-transmission-gear-ratio-study.html

for most wideband sensors it is recommended to put the sensor approx. 1 meter from the turbo (to prevent overheating and false readings under boost). Though it needs to be placed before the catalyst (if present)

standard auto radiator has a heat-exchanger built in, but you can use a manual (or aftermarket) radiator and use an external cooler for the transmission. replacing viscous fan with one or more electric fans is a big no-no on these cars. A broken coupler can not be fixed or rebuilt (afaik), so you'll have to purchase a new viscous coupler. It will be cheaper and far more effective then an electric fan set up.

> As promised, here is a picture of my dilema. I don't see the problem ... As long as each tension rod bracket (with the tens. rod disconnected from the lower arm) line up to all 4 holes (2 in the lower support and 2 in the frame rails) there is no problem. The reason why it doesn't line up correctly now is because of the tension rods (and tension rods are called just that for a reason)

first suspect is a disconnected/ripped hose somewhere...check the larger hoses to and from the intercoolers/throttlebodies first. Do you have blowoff valves on your car? if so, check those as well...maybe one is stuck open

> Not everyone constructs crap from old garden chairs in their potting sheds you know. I know, but I've seen a couple of real awful constructions people made themselves to "fix" a damaged structural part on their car. Just trying to make a point it's not as simple as it seems and wanted to discourage people that held a welder once or twice and read this thread thinking...hey I can just run off to my nearest DIY store, get some tubes, weld those into place and all be fine, because "I've read it on the internet"

> Thanks Lymon, I hadn't thought of using those bolt holes for initial fixing if I was honest. bolt the support into place using those 3 bolts on either side, then bolt up the tens.rods + brackets and the upstanding bar to the upper radiator support. Then weld the support to the frame and it'll positioned/aligned the way it should be.

Probably the ignition relay has failed. It's located at the back of the fusebox behind the kick panel.

> you could say the same for welding in the stock unit the (new) standard unit needs to be bolted into place using fixed points in the chassis and is then welded, so fitment/alignment is pretty much foolproof for the standard unit . you can see these points in the pictures that redwine posted

Not sure if creating the lower support yourself is a very good idea... Don't forget it has 2 very important pieces connected to it, that also need to be perfectly aligned/positioned: the tension rod brackets I don't think you'd want to be driving a car that has these brackets connected in a "bob the builder" way to a homemade support, with the risk of the brackets breaking/falling off. :wheelchair:

> I would just like to understand if there is any load being held under compression from the suspension as I am getting close to removing the fixing bolts. the only thing that's slightly under compression is the swaybar, but nothing serious > I would remove the tension rods from the brackets and lower suspension arms first and get them out of the way and then undo the brackets. I find it's actually easier to remove the tensionrods complete with brackets as there's no need to remove the rods from the brackets, unless you need/want to replace them.

with the rad and condensor out you have access to the last few bits and bobs (mainly piping) Start with the rad (keep towels ready ! :) ) Once the rad is out remove the condensor. In some cases the main/large condensor connector can be oxidized solid Sometimes it helps to soak the condensor connector in penetrating oil as much as possible and leave it like that overnight. If that doesnt help, you will need to cut the aluminum pipe running to the condensor (the yellow lines in the picture) and find yourself another/new condensor

large one is engine oil cooler...oil flow is pressure regulated the black oil is normal, even if you have fresh oil in the engine. small one is the cooler for the hydraulic steering/hicas oil

I'd advise to put the car on ramps/stands at the front...makes access to some parts easier. (you will have to drain/remove the radiator, so you will have to get the car up in the air anyway) if it's the first time you are doing this, it may be worthwhile to make pictures during the removal of parts, to help remember the location of parts/cables/wires/hoses/pipes and how it was attached. Also it's good practice to put as much bolts/nuts (that a part was fixed with) back into it's original location. ..that way you won't loose any nuts/bolts and you won't be left with a pile of bolts at the end that you have no idea where these came from :)

> does anyone know if the US cars are even any different underneath Not really, however the TT US/EURO (and some UK) models have precats and the real TT decat pipes are different/shorter compared to these and you'll usually get a set of downpipes with these decat kits, although they bolt on to the precats. The pipes you have were originally designed for (US) NA models and this may be the cause these pipes won't fit very well on JSPEC TT models

actually it's one piece (see picture I posted), but for some reason it lists the 2 brackets on the side as separate parts

http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1990_1/type_1/body_front_roof_and_floor/member/illustration_1/ number 38 (33/35)

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/60775-new-to-forum-here-are-some-pics-of-my-track-300zx-project/ http://forums.nicoclub.com/horrible-day-for-my-z-t585384.html

just like many other (now 25+ year old) electronics in most Z32's, the MAF can also suffer from dried solder joints, which can cause issues similar to the ones you are describing: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1124702/Dont-throw-away-that-nonworking-MAF.html might be worth a try before shopping for a "new" MAF

conzult will show you which cylinder is not functioning (through the power-balance test or it shows up as a misfire error), but you already know which cylinder it is. The conzult can't "see" if a particular injector has failed. While you are at it, I'd check the resistance on all injectors...they usually start failing one by one. Also it is recommended to disable the permanent live feed on the injectors, as this live feed (which is always on, even with ignition off) plus the ethanol in modern fuels is what causes the injectors on the early 300ZX models to fail. http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1109134/Switch-injector-voltage-mod-in-1-2-3.html

> are these strong enough for use with a setup running higher than standard boost? these clamps are for fuel lines.. amount of boost is not relevant for fuel lines