lymon

check the CAS plug/connector

see if you can replicate the problem with the rear wheels of the ground (eg. on a 2 post lift) Have someone in the car "drive" a steady 55 mph and see if you can see/hear what could cause the vibration (eg a wheel/tire/driveshaft). ..be careful you don't come near moving parts/wheels though !! Then do the same with the rear wheels removed and see if the vibration has changed in any way. If the vibration is still there without the wheels, you could go a step further and disconnect the halfshafts to see if that changes anything. I have discovered that in some case the rear brakediscs can also cause a vibration, but this is usually only at high speeds (>180 kmh)

you can leave the stock restrictors in place. remove any additional restrictors/boostjets though (if present).

> I thought you couldnt fit a na sensor in a tt box? maybe you are confused with an auto box ? NA/TT Manual transmissions are identical apart from small differences in bellhousing > I am looking for accuracy up to a ton. you may be able to get it somewhat accurate from 0-70 mph using the potentiometers, but the faster you go the higher the deviation from actual speed. (speedo will read more then actual speed)

if you need some information on how to (electronically) modify the speedo : http://tech.aus300zx.com/idial_install/recalibration.pdf this is pdf shows how to modify the speedo for a wider range (eg. max 300kmh), modifying it for a NA diff is the opposite, but similar (lower range, max 260 kmh), so you only need to figure out the correct resistor value

for a NA diff you won't be able to adjust enough with the potentiometer method if the cluster is still standard (you will need to modify the cluster by replacing a couple of resistors with different values) The potentiometer can only be used for fairly small adjustments if you still want it to show precise speeds over the whole range. So, unless you have the electronic equipment to modify and re-calibrate the speedometer, the easiest way is to fit a NA speedsensor (actually you only need to swap the speedsensor-gears) If you don't have the NA gear, you can order one here: https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-speed-sensor-gear-pinion-manual-non-turbo-32743-30p20_p_2536.php NB: if you have two potentiometers on the cluster, then one is for offset-adjustment and the other for range-adjustment

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1099253/On-Coilpacks-Part-Two.html

standard coilpacks are fine.. but make sure you have/use TT coilpacks and not the NA ones. Correct (and correctly gapped) sparkplugs are more important. For high horsepower (600+) you may want to look into the HKS twin ignition amp (http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/hkstpia/hkstpia.html)

Have you checked if the oil cooler is warm ? it shouldn't, as there shouldn't really be any flow through the cooler below 70-80 C (most thermostatic sandwich plates open at 80+) and maybe the thermostat is faulty ?

60 for oil is a bit low, but probably because of the improved cooling (and also because the engine doesn't have to work very hard yet) Are you using a sandwich adapter or the original oilfilter tree connections for the cooler ? (or: is the oil flowing through the cooler always or just under pressure) Maybe blank the oil cooler with a piece of cardboard/plastic for the time being and see if that helps to get the oiltemp around 80 while running in the engine..

is your car a 2+2 or 2-seater ? as the exhausts for these models are different. if 2+2, you can use a UK/EURO cat back system (cat-pipes are different on the NA) if 2-seater, a UK/EURO exhaust system won't fit and you'll need to find a 2-seater exhaust from an import (JAPAN or US)

those holes are there to assist in removing the discs..you can screw long bolts in there and those will push the disc of the hub. Most cars have these threaded holes in the brake discs in some form or another

Oh, in case you need the Nissan partno: 43222-70T00

I think you need to look harder (eg. call a Nissan dealer) as the front wheel studs M12x1.25 are shared with lots of other Nissan models, including Z33, Z34, S13,S14, R32 up to R35, etc, etc) NB: I have also heard these same studs are also used on Subaru's (eg. Impreza models), but I have yet to confirm this myself.

this is what the endlinks look like. they sit between the front swaybar and shocks on either side

if only one turbo is working you won't be able to get the gauge to move past 0 and the lack in power would be very noticeable Maybe first check if you have any ECU error codes which may cause safety boost (eg. code 34 or code 13) or if there are no errors (code 55), you can check for boost/vacuum leaks.

Does your boost gauge move past 0 ? if so, both turbos are working. If you have a feeling the car feels slower then normal, chances are it's in safety boost.

have you checked the (swaybar) endlinks ? if not tightened all the way they can cause clicks/creaks ..especially audible at slow speeds

Oh, sorry, I misread.. is your car a track car ? if not, standard (inner/outer) tie rods are fine, but expensive. I think Moog has (cheaper) tie rods for the Zed

standard rods are fine also see: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?185200-Tension-rod-bushes-advice

there should be a circlip on the halve shaft/axle keeping it inside the diff. if it was missing on yours, it may have fallen inside the diff. I'd remove the back cover of the diff and see if you can find it (if it has fallen inside the diff, it could do some serious damage there)

SMIC's are usually plug&play, where most FMIC's need a lot of grinding, cutting (sometimes welding.) and some thing may need to be moved out of the way to improve cooling. the only FMIC that's ok (imo) is the HKS type , as it sits under an angle and it keeps the correct crossflow. There are a lot of cheap clones of this HKS FMIC intercooler nowadays (on ebay and the likes), not sure about quality and fitment of those I have the original HKS one on my own car and I don't experience any real cooling issues, only when in busy traffic the temps shoot up, but I have fitted an upgraded aircon fan, which assists the main fan under these situations and then it's ok. It won't fit very well under a standard bumper ...it's ok with a 99 spec bumper, but you'll still need to cut a lot of material from the bumper. Other aftermarket bumpers may be ok.

depending on (known) maintenance history: -engine oil -transmission oil -differential oil -brake fluid -fuelfilter -sparkplugs -airfilter -brakepads/discs -check/replace coolant (needed anyway when doing timing belt) http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=ma&slide=8

the water channel inside the engine (aka the VG30DE limestone caves) that connects to the RH heater pipe will restrict the coolant flow more then enough :wink:

standard bushings are not available separately... you will need to purchase a complete tension rod if you want standard bushings. Closest to standard bushings are the Nismo bushings, which are available separately. https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspension/nismo/nismo-tension-rod-bushings-pair-p-1252.html