lymon

> Fuel hose clips - any suggestions as the ones I have are complete crap and easily split. Do you use a normal style clip or jubilee clip? get these fuel hose clamps: https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-fuel-hose-spring-clamp-z32-16439-16e0a_p_5657.php These were used on the later model Zeds and are lots better then the older screw type clamps

> starting to worry that the sensor blocked the oil way and that's why. the non starting has nothing to do with the broken off oil sensor. Even if it would block something.. Start at the basics, do you have fuel and spark ? check/wiggle CAS and PTU connectors...or maybe the immobilizer is acting up ? (if you have one in your car)

No, I am fairly certain that's not part of a 300ZX...I have stripped many Zeds to a bare shell, but never seen that bit

> Is it enough to have the piston at tdc or do I need to pressurise the cylinder too? you can use compressed air or with a piece of rope that fits through the sparkplug hole...fill the cylinder with as much rope as possible and slowly turn the engine to (com)press the rope against the valves Once done, simply pull out the rope and on to the next cylinder Apart from the tool that AndrewG posted, I also recommend a set of valve seat pliers to pull out the old seal (and put in the new one)

I am not sure if you'd want to use a wideband AFR signal for this purpose.. If you are looking for some sort of extra fail safe other then a knock monitor, I think monitoring EGT levels and an EGT sensor/alarm/monitoring device with an output signal of some sort would be better (imo). (The effects of) high EGT's can be far more destructive then running lean for a few seconds...although running lean can lead to high EGT's, high EGT's can also occur if AFR's are well within range (but something else is wrong.) >0-5v output but fails to say what it's purpose is. >Can anyone expand on this please? Gauges/alarms with an additional 0-5v signal can be used by many aftermarket ECU's as an extra (sensor) input, so the ECU can act when a certain threshold/voltage is reached. (eg. limit boost, lower ignition timing, cut fuel, etc) But in theory the 0-5v signal could also be used more simple eg. to drive a transistor to switch a relay ...or you could use it as an input signal for a small and simple MCU (like an Arduino or similar), which can give you similar options as to what an aftermarket ECU can do with this 0-5v signal.

> I guess I can at least install the mufflers and the X-tubes? Maybe they meant a 2-seater exhaust/catback won't fit a 2+2... the mufflers and h/x-pipe (aka catback), are different in length for a coupe/2-seater (2+0) and a 2+2...so make sure you the correct one for you car.

avoid ebay for parts..especially for parts that can not be accessed easily (in case they go wrong) or that are very important (timing belt, headgaskets, oil/waterpumps. etc) There are also a lot of counterfeit parts on ebay...so it may say "genuine Nissan" or similar, when its clearly not. (examples are airflow meters, injectors, gasket-kits, etc.) I have heard and seen quite a few horror stories of people thinking they could save a few euros by buying cheap ebay (chinese) gasket-kits/timing-belts/pumps/clutch-parts/turbos/etc.

Here's one ...it has no wiring loom though: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-90-96-300ZX-HKS-AUTOMATIC-LINE-CONTROLLER-RARE-JAPAN-ALC-Z32-/271971701855?hash=item3f52c6d45f:g:AusAAOSwDNdV4vq~&vxp=mtr

There used to be 2 separate versions of the conzult: - The old conzult software, with software versions v2.x, is what we (DTA Motorsport) used to sell many years ago and only works with the cable that was sold in combination with the software. It won't work with any of the 3rd party cables. - The (current) Conzult software with software version 1.x was made to only work with 3rd party cables. We stopped selling the first one about 6-7 years ago and nowadays the only version available is the one that (only) works with 3rd party cables. Hope this helps

Was good to see you Dave and I'm glad I could help you get the car running correctly. Now quickly get that bodywork/interior/painting sorted (before spring), so you can experience the Zed experience ! -Eric

Correction..."the front one is a 8.5J rear wheel" needs to be "the left one is a 8.5J rear wheel"

Not very clear to see in the picture, but it looks like the front one is a 8.5J rear wheel (spokes and center run/point slightly inwards) and the right one is a 7.5J front wheel (spokes/center point outwards). So this would mean the tires are put on the wrong way around... From the top of my head the standard (staggered) wheels are also stamped with the correct side...RR (rear right), FL (front left), etc

First check if the heater has been bypassed...very simple: at the back of the engine you (should) see 2 hoses go into the bulkhead: bulkhead side: (rear of) engine side: if you don't see these 2 hoses and the 2 pipes at the back of the engine are looped together with a single piece of hose, then it has been bypassed. (Mocht je advies in het nederlands willen, moet je me even bellen/mailen..zie link in mijn profiel)

Yes, Blazt cables also work fine. But as Blazt/Blazt.com went out of business a couple of years ago, there is no support anymore...so getting drivers/support to have the adapter work under the newer versions of windows may be difficult or impossible.

Yes, I can still provide the software, but I don't make/sell cables anymore. If you need a cable, I recommend PLMS/Nistune cables for best results.

Don't know why they are calling this a consult II, as that is something completely different and as usual for most ebay adds for chinese junk: quite deceiving A real consult II (a device to diagnose later model Nissans) looks like this: I am not sure your are able to use this particular cable on your elgrand, as this cable has a specific connector that is only found on Nissans from the 90's (eg. the 300ZX) For other/newer cars (like your elgrand) you will probably need a real Consult II (VERY expensive and hard to find with the correct ROM-cards)..and if you are lucky it will work with a generic OBD2 code reader. On top of that , these chinese ebay conzult cables are hit/miss and most don't work (well). They usually come with a cd that has a mix of freeware/crippled Nissan diagnostic software (for Windows), which they ripped of the internet...but should be enough to read and clear codes on your Zed. If you want to be able to use your Android tablet/phone as a OBD/DDL-diagnostic device, your best bet will be to purchase a bluetooth or wifi type diagnostic adapter (for the 300Z/Nissan these are quite expensive) and hope for the best. eg. http://www.trackelectronics.com.au/consultbt From what I have seen the Android software for the 300ZX looses it's connection to the cable all the time and is useless for this reason (imo)

Hello Dave, not sure where you are located, but as I am in the Netherlands also... you can contact me (eric-at-300zx-twinturbo.com) if you want. I can connect a computer with the conzult software to your car and see what's the exact problem.

the (full) conzult software that also has HICAS diagnostics and other features needs to be purchased separately. the ones that are sold as "conzult" on ebay are just the cables and some include a cd that has the freeware/limited version of the conzult software (just engine diagnostics)

these should still be available (at least in the US): https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=5257 Nissan partnumber: 12310-30P12

Can't see it very clearly in that video, but it seems you are missing the hoses going from the turbos to the intercoolers ? If so, then that's your problem: a massive vacuum leak

Are the 2 fuel lines (the ones coming from the fuel filter and the return line) connected correctly and not swapped ?

if the engine/crank isn't seized, then the block will probably be fine. Depending on how much it overheated, the piston rings and bores need to be inspected/replaced/re-honed if needed. My experience is that the head(s) can usually be binned after a HG failure. If the head(s) have never been skimmed before and distortion is less the 0.2mm, then in theory it can be re-used, but chances are you will have issues later on (eg. camshaft failure/seizure)

If the downpipe (and indirectly the turbo) took a hit and was damaged in some way, you most like have a distinct exhaust leak at the very least. As suggested already, do a boostleak test to make sure you don't have any pressure leaks in the system, as this sounds as the most likely cause of your problem

oops..forgot the link: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/classified/view/172952/Gauge-gauge-cluster-pods-and-ECU-repair-new-price-options.html