lymon

Also looked in converting a '99/RHD 300zx to LHD (I owned a '99 version-R a couple of years ago). You will need a LHD shell to start with and the interchangeable parts from the RHD car are mostly mechanical items such as engine, front/rear subframes and bodyparts. Most of the electronics (wiring) and interior won't fit (front seats, dashboard, door panels, center console, etc, etc) and the interior is one of the things that makes a '99 spec so special. You will be surprised how many parts are (slightly) different and won't fit a LHD car. So best is to leave it RHD or just get a LHD car in really good shape.

seeing those plugs covered with oil, a compression test will not give very accurate results (as the bores will also be full with oil, giving false positive results) I hope I'm wrong, but it has the symptoms of cracked ringlands. have you tried removing the oil cap while the engine is running ? do you get smoke from the oil cap and/or lots of blowby ?

Conzult software works fine on windows 7 (x64/x32), usually the problem is caused by the (driver for) cable. Older type laptops with a genuine RS232 port work best, although if you need a USB type cable/converter, best is to choose one that has a FTDI chipset. The cheaper (ebay/chinese) cables/converters mostly use other chipsets and can have all sorts of weird problems or don't work at all. > now DTA from holland sell them but ive sent them 5 emails about a purchase and not had 1 reply @ znut: what email did you send your requests to ? I just checked and there are no emails from you in the mailbox. Please use info -at- dta-motorsport.com or email me directly : eric -at- 300zx-twinturbo.com

Connect a conzult to the car and check the steeringwheel angle when the steeringwheel/wheels are straight. If it show over plus or minus 5 degrees, this is most likely the issue.

>> Is the Apexi still the recommended gauze filter? A problem has been discovered with the Apexi ones as well... They collapse under high boost...although rumors are this only happens with chinese copies which are sold as legit Apexi's and afaik can not be identified as copies. example of what can happen: On a near standard Zed this will probably not happen very easily, but for the bigger powered engines I'd go with K&N or JWT filters

oh, and this: http://specialtyz.com/blog/?p=705 and about 5 months later: http://specialtyz.com/blog/?p=892

It's not adviced to use this kind of turbos with stock injectors and ecu. these turbos usually have wastegate actuators with stiffer springs and run higher boost.

it's basically a chinese copy of the Jim wolf JWT600 turbochargers...which is more or less a t28 stuffed into the stock 300zx turbo housing, which is already a bad idea (imo) and on top of that, chinese turbochargers don't have a very good reputation.

actually... the coils are different and have a different partnumber. they look identical though.

I have both and if I would need to compare my 350z to my 300ZX, I get the following list: cons: -build quality is far below the 300ZX...especially interior and some of the 350Z's I've seen and looked at were already starting to rust quite alarming -powerwise they are a bit tame...and there's no easy/cheap way to increase power noticeably (and keep the same reliability). -they don't seem to draw as much attention as the 300ZX -the 350Z seems to be more noisy inside at motorway speeds (tire noises inside the car) -350Z is only available as a 2 seater, which may be a problem for some people...but in that case you could look at a G35 or skyline V35, which is basically a 350Z 2+2 pros: -350Z has a very good and reliable engine (VQ35), as long as kept untouched..when super/turbocharged things may go wrong and reliability can become an issue. -350's are a lot less thirsty...uses about 40-50% less fuel then a 300ZX. -has very good handling and sticks to the road like glue. Also has a good traction control system and the body is far more rigid then the 300ZX. -better brakes (standard vs. standard) -has a very nice exhaust sound (imo) -350Z is very comfortable and I prefer the 350Z over the 300ZX to drive long distances. -350Z has more safety features (lots of airbags and electronic aids like traction control/ESP)

did you check timing with a strobe light or are you looking at what consult is showing ?

> Isn't that a bit low for the injectors to be maxed out at 1 bar and 422 rwhp? sounds about right. 615 cc injectors should be capable of around 400 whp on E85 at a 85% dutycycle 420 whp is pushing it already and the injectors will be maxxed out. > had a run today. at full boost the afr is 12.7 - 11 make sure the sensor (scale) has been calibrated for E85, as AFR scales are (very) different. stoich of E85 is around 9.7:1, while for regular petrol it is 14.7:1 ! max power for E85 for turbo engines is at around 6.5:1 So if your current sensor has been calibrated for E85 and you are running ~12 AFR's, you will be running too lean ! (although E85 is more forgiving and it has a high detonation limit) > but at what % do you ideally want to run the injectors? safe max is at around 85%..

Hello Dave, contact me at info [at] dta-motorsport.com I'll see what I can do for you. -Eric

forgot to mention that the timing should always be verified with a timing light. Also the later Zeds don't follow the 15 BTDC at idle rule. They work quite different and use a variable ignition timing system to get better emmission ratios. Because of this the timing hovers between 5-10BTDC at idle.

some additions to your values: > Closed Throttle Position > TPS 0.44-0.46 These values are only valid at idle and and the values are linked. if the Closed Throttle Position switch is on, the TPS should show between 0.4-0.5volt. You can reset the closed throttle switch by unplugging the TPS plug for 10 seconds (the oval plug that is on the seperate small cable) > Timing set at 15 Deg > IACV-AAC/V 15% > Mas Air Flow 1.30v + P/N position switch: ON these values are valid at idle and the engine should be fully warmed up. Timing may show 25 BTDC if the P/N position switch is OFF (may be the case for a malfunctioning neutral switch or an auto to manual conversion.) The airflow is an approximate value, may vary slightly between cars. > Injector Pulse 2.2 msec > Injector Duty 1.61% Again, average values for STANDARD injectors (at idle) may vary slightly between cars > A/F Alpha 109% again this is an average value and only works if you have fully functional O2-sensors and ideally you want this value to be close to 100%. any value over or under 100% means the ECU has to compensate with less or extra fuel to get the mixture right. Extreme compensations (> +/- 15%) usually mean something is wrong with either air (airleaks) or fuel (injectors/fuel pressure) > Water Temp 80 Deg C-84 Deg C > Fuel Temp 25 Deg C-35 Deg C these values are valid for a warmed up engine. NB: the fuel temp values are ignored by the ECU for the most part, so not really important in respect to getting the car running better . another important one is battery voltage: should be between 13.7 and 14.3 Volt (at any rpm) If the value is off, it may indicate (future) problems with the alternator -Eric

Isn't the Largo on the same chassis as the Serena ? If so, maybe you can use (part of) the Z32 gearbox and linkage/pedals/etc of a Serena with manual transmission ?

you'll first have to install the drivers for the USB adapter and get windows to be able to access the vcp (virtual comport) that is created by the USB adapter's driver. You will have to leave the USB adapter connected before starting the conzult software (only the case with laptops that only have USB ports and don't have a onboard serial port) Once the driver for the USB adapter is installed correctly and the VCP is active (USB adapter connected to laptop) the conzult should work fine.

sounds like you have a dead ECU

it sounds like you have an airleak and it's venting air somewhere...maybe one of the hoses to/from the intercoolers best is to do a boostleak test

the US sparewheel needs to be inflated with a small air canister which sits under the wheel. Unfortunately this canister is often missing and the spare wheel is useless without it, unless you have an airpump available to inflate the tire.. Also the US belts have electronic lockups, which is only activated when a certain g-force is exceeded (either positive or negative). This is very annoying as the belt also locks up when you are accelerating hard and it's always a struggle to get these type of belts through MOT (at least in Holland)

> what does straight cut box mean Transmissions with straight cut or spur gears are mostly used for race/rally applications. they can stand more power and have less transmission/power loss, but they will produce a lot more noise then transmissions with helical gears (like a standard gearbox). example of how a gearbox with straight cut gears sounds like:

it's not always neccessary to grind...actually I have found most NA transmissions will fit without any grinding. You won't know until you will test-fit it. You do need to shim the starter though. If you insist on grinding, the area that's most likely to hit the ring-gear is the area on the inside of the bellhousing where the starter sits.

> Avoid the dual pop at all costs, they are nothing but problems. Since the Selin dual maf translator has been on the market, most of the common dual pop/intake problems are a thing of the past...it requires 2 AFM's though. http://www.selindesign.net/electronics.html with 1 AFM and 1 dummy it's still a disaster ;)

http://specialtyz.com/blog/?p=705

That (polish) rear bumper is quite popular in Holland/Germany and fits pretty well.