lymon

could be a classic example to mask mechanical/engine problems I have seen it several times where they fried/disabled the ECU or cut some important wiring on purpose, so you can't hear it running and leave you thinking you have a bargain as it's "just" some electronic problem

TT transplant in a NA is a LOT more work then a TT transplant into another TT, where you basically just have to move the engine (and maybe gearbox)

You shouldn't be able to move the wastegate flapper (or WG arm) unless you use force. You can test the actuator with an aircompressor and preferably a regulator valve set to approx 1 bar. put some pressured air on the WG actuator's port and the arm/wategate flapper should move/open. IMPORTANT: don't put too much pressure (more then 2 bar) on the actuator or you may damage the actuator's internal membrane

valve sizes are the same between NA and TT. TT has sodium filled exhaust valves for better heat dissipation

you'll have to take the oilpan off to see if it has forged pistons and/or rods (Also most aftermarket pistons have their brandname stamped on the bottom side of the piston)

> Nice to hear its my eyes or the photo's that are wrong not the car no problem. You're more then welcome to come see the car in real life and see if it's your eyes or my camera ! :)

> well I aitn got a clue what your talking about. me neither. My company is the current owner of that car and I can tell you it is not or hasn't been damaged in ANY way... Not sure how you can tell that by looking at a few pictures... -Eric

proof for when the ebay pictures/auction is gone. :D

it's for sale... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300ZX-Twin-Turbo-Peter-North-1993-Stillen-Twin-Turbo-Nissan-300ZX-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf075aaceQQitemZ330451757774QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

>> If you want an off-the-shelf system, go for BillyBoat (B&B) exhausts. A lot of the big power guys in the US run these and they look the business too. They sound very good and are exceptionally well made. I have a B&B on my own Zed and have ordered/installed about 5 other sets on Zeds and I have to say they are certainly not exceptionally well made.... Fitment is not good, acceptible to the eye at the very best and some of the welds look like they have been done by a 4 year old. It doesn't even come close to exhausts from eg. HKS, Greddy, Labree or even Mongoose. They do sound lovely though ! :D

it should be nice and smooth.. eg. a stock map looks like this: Jeff, I just noticed you mentioned it's from a mid ninetys non turbo. It could be a 16 bit ROM/ECU. Sometimes if the conzult software doesn't detect it's a 16-bit ECU correctly you may get maps looking like that... What's the ECU part number ?

the feed hose of the original oilcooler connections on a TT should be on the oilfilter-tree (the part where the oilfilter connects to), behind the RH engine mount. The return hose is connected to the oilpan near the oilreturn hose of the turbo Maybe they have fitted a non turbo oilfilter-tree, as those don't have an engine oil cooler and also no connections on the oilfilter tree for the cooler.

may have been a read error from the conzult software. Does it come up with that map every time ? (after restarting the software) if so, it's probably a corrupted ROM

Twinturbo model (both MT and AT) have a R230V diff with a ratio of 3.692 Nonturbo models (both MT and AT) have a R200V diff with a ratio of 4.083

Another cause of failing heater cores and coolant pipes is electrolysis I've been testing for electrolysis on most Zeds I get in our workshop for the last year or so and it seems to become a common problem... Probably due to the age of the wiring, bad grounds and/or old/dirty coolant with lots of metal/rust particles . Also the fact that for the series 1+2 models the injectors have a constant live power feed, even when the car has been shut off, helps the electrolysis eat away even more. The test is very simple. Using a digital volt meter, connect the black or ground lead to the battery ground and lower the red or positive lead into the coolant in the radiator. Do not touch the filler neck sides or the tank (if you have a full alluminium aftermarket radiator). Any reading over .3 voltage is indicative of excess current entering the cooling system. Always perform the test twice, once with the engine off and all accessories off and once with the engine running and common accessories (radio, heater or A/C, lights ect.) on. Grounding kits or engine ground straps and fresh coolant (to the specifications that Mark/Topless mentioned...never use plain water !) seem to work very well to tackle this problem. If grounding the engine and fresh coolant doesn't help, it's best to remove all heavy duty fuses in the main fuse panel (under the bonnet, near the brake cylinder for RHD Zeds) and reinstall the fuses one at a time, while measering for voltage spikes or peaks in the coolant. Once you detect a voltage spike, it's best to look into the service manual electric wiring schemes to see what accessories are behind that particular fuse, to pinpoint the cause of the votage spike.

>> Is this like a thin shimmy type plate that goes all the way round between the gearbox and the engine? there should be 2 plates: the one that goes all the way round is the main plate and a second one, basically a halfmoon shaped one, that sits over the lower part. It often gets lost and/or forgotten after the gearbox is removed/refitted for whatever reason.

Another important and overlooked item and cause of messed up (spigot) bearings and clutches is a missing lower/2nd metal plate between the bellhousing and the engine. (found on Zeds with manual transmissions only.) The 2nd plate is there for a reason and NEEDS to be used...

apparently they do that as the coins are some sort of lucky charm

NA auto gearbox is a RE4R01A, TT has the RE4R03A. in short the NA version is a lesser spec. However, you can fit a NA box to a TT...although I'm not sure why you'd want to do this (IMO). You'll need the NA flexplate/ringgear, NA torque converter, NA auto transmission, NA driveshaft (front piece) and preferably the NA ATCU (tranmssion ECU)

142-143 flat out in a NA auto on the german autobahn...

you get what you pay for, I guess... I have test fitted a set of the knock offs (darkgrey/white) and fitment is not so good. the knockoffs are too curved and needed some modification to make them fit at all. Once modified and fitted, they look ok..

sounds like faulty MAF (or wet filter...)

In my opinion, this is the best PCV solution if you track your car often: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1019112/The-ultimate-PCV-reroute-write-up.html

> any good? the stock pump also flows 250 lph, so not much of an upgrade....a replacement at most. If you want an upgraded pump, get a Bosch pump type 040 or 044

> is happy at around 140 degrees that's not really a temperature you want the ATF oil to reach, as you box will start to fry. ATF oil breaks down very quickly, but also depends on quality of the oil. Best is to keep ATF Tranmission oil temps between 80C and 90C..basically the same as the coolant temperature in our engines.