lymon

>> Anyone know any good suppliers of T25/T28 hybrids get the GT2560R (aka GT28R), it's a ballbearing T25/T28 hybrid made by garrett.

can be ordered from nissan. partnr. 14445-75F10

BTW, the M24 code has not much to do with the model of the turbo. It is also on S13 turbos and other Garrett turbos. it's probably a code for T25 Compressor , but I'm not sure about this.

the stock turbos are T25/T22 hybrids, garrett model TB22 the automatic turbos are not really smaller, they have a turbine housing with a smaller AR-rating, which makes them spool faster, but run out of power at higher rpms. The core of the turbos (CHRA) of both manual and auto is exactly the same.

I have seen older 350's that started to develop some serious rust and I've noticed on many 350's that the interior/dashboard wears out very quickly. (it also becomes rattly) the VQ35DE engine is very good and will last, as long as you don't put any turbos or chargers on it.

AMS may have better build quality, but it looks like the actual cooling core of the AMS is inferior to the Koyo. I recently installed an AMS radiator for a customer (his request) and it only cooled slightly better then a 18 year old stock radiator. After doing some high speed runs the car immediately started to overheat (...it sometimes also had this problem with the 18 year old stock radiator, that's why he wanted a "better" radiator) To improve the cooling I installed a new fan clutch and cleaned the condensor , but it didn't help much and it still had the overheating problem. I then ripped out the AMS and tried a koyo radiator and all cooling problems were gone. this may have been a one off case, but it makes you wonder though...

I used to like/have a bayside blue Zed (I think I was one of the first) but somehow you get bored with this color very quickly. I now have 2 new favourites. KR4 Sonic Silver it's the silver used on skylines, but was also available for the '99 spec Zed. it's slightly darker and has more metallic then standard Zed silver it suits the Zed very well and gives it a classy look and QN0 arctic white that was available for the 99-specs. (pictures don't do it justice...you have to see it with your own eyes)

for trackuse the Mintex MDB1416 M1166 are very good. but, these pads have been designed for trackuse only...don't use these pads on the street.

a malfunction injector (or sometimes just a corroded injector connector) can also cause a powerbalance failure.

> should the timing be changed to 15°BTC or left at 35°BTC if you haven't rewired the pn switch, the timing should be 25 BTDC at idle. if you did connect the PN switch from the gearbox to the ecu, it should be set at 15 BTDC usually the bolts that hold the CAS should be not far from the middle in the slotted holes. If you need to set it to the far left or right to get the timing to 15 BTDC, then you either haven't connected the PN switch (if it is a AT-MT conversion) or the timing belt has slipped a tooth. or if you are not sure...use conzult and see what it shows the (ECU) timing is at idle and set the mechanical timing to the same

to make the doors shut more solid, try this: http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1082987/Stop-Door-Rattles-and-Thump-Shut-Like-a-Mercedes.html

I have experience with these.. they are exact copies of Koyo radiators. Well built, but probably use inferior cores, as they cool only a fraction better then a (old) stock radiator. So it's a good and cheap alternative/replacement for a stock radiator, but if you really need a performance radiator with better cooling capacities look elsewhere and choose a Koyo or Howe.

>> I read in a couple of places that you can use an NA rad on a TT, and that an auto rad fits a manual, but maybe not an na auto. it's the other way around...you can use a TT radiator in a NA. TT auto radiator fits both manual TT and NA TT manual rad can be used in auto TT and NA, but you will need an external autobox cooler.

the fact that a 300ZX outran a 350Z in a earlier top gear feature didn't have a (positive) effect on the value of the Zed either, so I doubt this feature will have any effect... It'll probably be a laugh as we all know how well a Zed can be driven in snow/ice :D

sorry if it's a repost, but has anyone seen this yet ? http://www.topgear.com/uk/ "Six days to go until Sunday nights get good again – and here’s another exclusive Mole preview. The premise behind this film is simple – the producers sent Jeremy, Richard and James out to buy a proper sports car for less than £1,500 (1,500.00 GBP = 2,456.95 USD) and packed them off to France for a road trip. Sounds rather agreeable, but there were a couple of catches – the finish line was in the Alps and the final challenge was an Andros Trophy-style ice race. And by ‘proper sports car’ they meant rear-wheel drive – so the boys basically end up racing three knackered old coupes against snorting, snarling, lightweight four-wheel-drive, four-wheel-steer, purpose-built rally machines. One of them, The Mole can reveal, doesn’t quite make it…" "Today (Thursday) saw BBC's Top Gear team, Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James Mayes take to the Ice Driving Circuit in Val Thorens for a spot of filming, in whiteout conditions. After countless delays, waiting for a window in the storm, the men finally took to the track. With one car off the road due to engine trouble, only two of the boys were racing, and we have to say.....it wasn’t that exciting. Earlier on, they had been out in Andros Trophee cars, usually piloted by drivers such as Alain Prost, with professional drivers acting as co drivers to give the chaps some directions. This was followed by several laps with the boys driving on their own and then they took out their own cars, a Porche and Mazda (we think!) Unfortunately, due to the adverse weather conditions, it wasn’t that exciting to watch. It was much more fun seeing the car that didn’t start being towed off by the Gendarmerie into a wall....."

http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_22_33&products_id=64

and TT runs 6 volt in LOW mode

12 volt

just checked the serv.manual. the NA runs in LOW mode at 8 volt where the TT runs in MID mode 7 volt. So voltage/flow should be fine if you are using a TT pump and NA FPCU

Marc, the pump speed does not depend on the fuelmaps. the most important variable for pump speed is engine load. The TT FPCU has a low, mid and high setting. the LOW setting is used for cruising and idle conditions the MID setting is used for 95% of all other conditions the HIGH setting is not used very often and only in extreme conditions. (eg. very cold coolant temperature or very high engine load) the NA FPCU only has a low and high speed. I'm not sure if the LOW setting of the NA FPCU and MID setting of the TT FPCU have a similar voltage/flow on the fuelpump If this is not the case, then the ECU should be adapted so it will switch the NA FPCU to the high setting in all cases were the TT FPCU would have used the MID setting.

if in doubt bypass the FPCU http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.369 ...pump will run at full blow then, but could make it easier to troubleshoot if you are not sure if the feul pump controller works.

>> at the pump isit, no, at the engine...

>> car has ben started, but i dont think fuel is getting there at the mo. you didn't make the classic mistake of swapping the fuel feed and return hose, did you ?

when exactly do you get that error ?

On some laptops that don't have an internal comport the cable (or actually the USB converter) needs to be connected before starting the conzult software. It seems you have such a laptop. But first follow these instructions: plug in the conzult cable + USB converter that came with the conzult. Laptop/ PC will detect and install the driver for the USB converter (if it hasn't done so already) if not, it will ask for the USB driver: insert USB driver disk and install the driver manually. (in most cases, the XP driver installs fine within vista) Once the driver has been installed and the USB converter is recognized by the operating system, start the conzult software. (make sure you leave the cable/usb-converter connected) Go the the settings menu within the software and select the correct comport (this will be the comport that has been assigned to the USB converter...usually COM10 or COM11) connect the other end of the conzult cable to your car and see if the software works. if the software/laptop seems to hang after selecting some of the menu items. (eg. power balance), then there is a problem with the VCP latency setting. Here is described on how to change this latency setting: http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/ftdi/USB-VCP-Install-WinXP-v1.1.pdf Hope this helps. -Eric