lymon

>> is this the actuator we are talking about: >> http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=665 yes, that's the correct kit. the ones in the ebay link look as if both brackets are the same, which makes me wonder if they are really for a VG30DETT (as the L and R bracket should be different) >> Could i use a silicon reducer and attached it to the turbo inlet then a 45 degree metal >> elbow and weld that to the oem inlet pipes? you won't really need a reducer. the turbo in the picture is larger..probably a GT28RS or similar the stock inlet piping is around 56mm or so and the GT25R inlet is 60mm welding a small piece of 60mm pipe to the inlet pipes works very well and you still have room left to fit the stock heatshields for the manifolds (which will also protect the silicone) If you really want to you can make your own custom 60mm inlet piping all the way to the air intake(s)..the choice is yours.

ok, here's a rough guide on how to fit the GT2554R (or GT25R) to be honest if you are thinking about this and haven't bought anything yet, it is probably a lot easier and more cost effective to purchase the plug and play JWT530 kit in the US. You can buy these kits for near $2400 nowadays. anyway, if you decide to do it yourself here is a quick quide on what you need to do: extra parts needed: -HKS wastegate actuators (in case of emergency you can also use stock actuators, but better not) -5 bolt downpipes (split downpipes are preffered) -2x 5 bolt exhaust/turbine gaskets, 2x manifold/turbo gasket, 2x compressor/expansion pipe gasket (the litte triangle formed one) -ss flexible oil lines with restrictor (you can buy these as kits in the US for around $100) -60mm silicone hose, 250mm of it will be enough. -piece of 60mm steel pipe procedure: -remove the actuators that come with these turbos. you don't need them. -clock the turbos so the position of both turbine/compressor housing and center section (CHRA) is identical to the stock turbos. Testfit the turbos to the engine, to see if all fits correctly. you shouldn't have to shave/grind anything. if all fits well, remove the turbos again and mark the compressor housing's position to the CHRA -testfit the HKS actuators, close to how the stock actuators are fitted to the stock turbos. mark the holes of the actuator brackets on the compressor housing double check this a few times. it is important the rod of the actuator is as straight as possible and not touching the outlet of the actuators vacuum pot (you will see what I mean when you are actually at this stage) -remove compressor housing (first make sure you marked it's position to the CHRA). Carefully drill holes into the compressor housing (not too deep, similar depth as the old holes where the GT25R actuators were) and thread these holes -clean the compressors thouroughly...make sure no alluminium shavings are left in there -refit compressor housing to the CHRA and fit HKS actuator -the actuators will need to be calibrated. procedure can be found somewhere on tt.net, but their server is down atm. -enlarge the holes of the stock oil return pipes. easiest is to use the oil gasket that comes with the GT25R's as a template. -fit all lines/pipes to the turbos and fit the turbos to the engine. -remove the flanges of the old black inlet pipes and weld on some of the 60mm pipe where the flange used to be (usually about 30-40mm of pipe will be enough.) -use the silicone hose to fit the rewelded inlet pipes to the compressor housing of the turbos. hope this helps...

15208-55y00

oh, and there's also no difference between LHD and RHD gaskets :D

>> is there a differance between left and right hand drive gaskets? no, left and right headgasket are identical

LPI (LPG injection) can be done on a Zed: http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=990685&postcount=17

>> I get the windscreen wipers going though yes, that's what it's supposed to do. the pump/washers are quite powerful (when they work) and some of the washer fluid will also get on your windscreen.

this is the company that originally made the keys for Nissan: http://www.directcircuit.com/products/300zx-Titanium-Key.html# you can order "replicas" from them now, slightly cheaper as the japanese site posted

a seized pump is a common failure of the headlight washers. >> If I press the headlight washer button with the lights off I get absolutely nothing. >> If I press it with the headlights on, I get the click of a relay that's how it should be, the headlight washers only work with the lights turned on. -Eric

That particular car was a show/demo car for Cartier...so that might explain the bling factor http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=9224

> is there no additional benefit for the extra balance bar?? probably not for this particular car :D but for cars with a dual intake system and single AFM's it helps to overcome idling problems.

there are a couple that have done this. http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredvehicles/130_0712_nissan_300zx/photo_12.html there's also a forum dedicated to the conversion: http://rbz32.com/

> Would this inconsistency mean the AT control unit itself is damaged?? this could be the case. or...as it indicates: the battery voltage may be too low. So, erase errors and check again with the engine running (battery voltage should be ok then) if the same errors keep coming back, it'd swap the ATCU with another one to see if it's the control unit causing the errors.

what happens if you erase the codes ? those may be old codes if you are certain the tps is working correctly it may indicate faulty wiring (do you have a HKS ALC?) or there's something wrong with the ATCU itself (swap it with another one) -Eric

could it be a ignition timing issue ? meaning ignition timing is off for cyl 2/4. Have seen this happen before on other aftermarket ECU's (eg. AEM, Autronic), becuase of an incorrect CAS setup within the software or in some cases because of a firmware issue within the ECU. -Eric

>> So using a screened cable, I would splice the centre to pin 23, and the screen to pin 50, sound right? no, you only have to run a wire from pin 23 to the signal pin of the sensor. the sensor is already grounded and connected to pin 50 once you bolt it to the engine. >> I would consider bunging a resistor straight on to the ECU board, but how dangerous is this? the resistor trick bypasses the dett. sensor, no matter where you place the resistor. Bypassing the sensor means the ECU isn't able to react to detonation picked up by the sensor and *could* result in engine damage. > but I'll be pretty stumped if the loom is ok! if the loom is ok, then you have a fried ECU...or the part inside the ECU that handles the dett. sensor signal. Have seen this once, but is very rare though.

>> the other is said to be a ground, but it is not the pin is a real ground but it is used to shield the signal wire. The sensor is grounded by the metal plate on the bottom of the sensor. (which makes contact once the sensor is bolted to the engine). The signal pin of the sensor connects to pin 23 of the ECU. if the 1 mega-ohm resistor trick doesn't work, it caused by a bad wiring harness in most cases, so it's easiest to solder the resistor directly into the ECU: remove the bottom plate of the ECU and solder the resistor between pin 50 and pin 23 (make sure it doesn't make a short anywhere else)

>> Maybe you could transplant an up to date 350z ABS system into our cars? I don't think this can be done.. You can upgrade the ECU that was used in the latest '99 spec model Z32's. This is updated ecu and looks like it can be plug and play for older Zeds. Good luck finding an '99 spec ABS ecu though. Another point that is often overlooked (imo) and of which I think it has great influence on the way our brakes/abs behaves, is the fact that the MBC and ABS actuator are (too) far apart. Because the actuator is in the back of the car, a lot of unnecessary length to the brake lines (esp. for the front brakes) is added. All other performance models from Nissan (and other makes) have the actuator in the engine room and near the MBC.

> 850-900rpm was showing around 28degrees! make sure engine is fully warmed up (coolant >70C), before checking/setting timing. also if the car has been converted from auto to manual the timing will be "fixed" to 25 BTDC at idle unless you connected the Neutral switch of the gearbox to the ECU. -Eric

not sure what to think of the picture you posted, maybe there are different types of the PFR6B-11's, which would make things even more confusing... anyway.. I once measured the ZFR7's against the PFR6B-11B and they were exactly equal in length. I also found this picture, comparing the ZFR7F-11 to the PFR6B-11B's. here you can also see they are the same in length. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/temp/plugs2.jpg

> I presume they are colder than the PFR6B-11B, how do they compare in length Eric? Mark, the overall length of the ZFR7F-11 is the same as the PFR6B-11B I personally never had a problem with the ZFR7 heat range (in various Zeds), but you can also get them in heat range 6: ZFR6F-11 PS: below the difference between a PFR6B-11 (left) vs a PFR6B-11B (right)

if it's just temporary, get the copper variant: ZFR7F-11 for high power/boost applications I'd recommend copper plugs anyway. You will have to change them every 5000 kms, but the copper plugs are cheaper and safer then iridium/platinum variants. The tip of iridium/platinum plugs can break up under extreme conditions (eg. detonation/high EGT's): tip falls into the combustion chamber and ruins bore/valves/engine. The tip of copper plugs will melt under these conditions, so in a manner of speaking it will act as a fuse and give you some sort of protection against these conditions. Also, as far as I know, there are no iridium plug variants made for the Z32, so you will end up with a plug that has the incorrect length. -Eric

online version of FAST: http://nissan4u.com/parts/

I can't remember when I first registered/subscribed, but it was ages ago, when Craig Stratton, founder of 300zx.co.uk, was still running the site from a pc under his desk. He was the one that inspired me to set up my own Zed website/forum, namely: http://300zx-twinturbo.com I became good friends with Craig, Warren Sheehan (a former notorious member), Steve Ellerby and other members that are now long gone. We went to meetings in the UK, Holland and Nurburgerring together and I have gathered quite a few other friends thanks to this forum. Unfortunately I share the same feeling as takemetothepub, that the club feeling for me has long gone, which is a real shame. -Eric

yes, TT and NA cranks, rods, girdle and engine blocks are all the same. Also I have heard from several sources, the socalled Nismo crank that can be bought in the US, is actually just a regular crank as well.. The only (proven) uprated crank available for the VG30DE(TT) is the one that is used in the strokerkit from JUN one thing I forgot to mention in the list of differences in bottom-ends are the (piston) wrist pins.