lymon

The Zed doesn't have a hall type speed sensor. The stock sensor produces an AC voltage and it's actually not really a sensor but a small electric generator.

maybe you have damaged one of the ABS sensor at the frontwheels. or it could be coincidence and the ABS computer has gone mad for some reason. Or maybe one of the ABS fuses is out. (there are several, in the fusible link box, the relay box and footwell panel)

>> thats not true, i know a few people in the states who have run the aem with auto boxes, also on some 240sx's as well. no way on the plug&play units....maybe the race AEM 1900 series >> Never heard of Nistune? is it a piggy back or stand alone? it's a small board that is installed inside the stock ECU, which will give the stock ECU similar features as standalone ECU's. http://www.nistune.com

Also, the AEM can not be used on a Z32 with a (Nissan) automatic transmission. For those that have a upgraded/built auto transmission, you will need an aftermarket ATCU, eg. the Shift-At-Will-system

NB: traction control on the AEM is a joke. it's nowhere as efficient as eg. a racelogic system

the meaning of the LED's is described in the document that comes with the conzult package: The communication interface cable has 3 indication LEDs. Power LED This is a green LED that will light up when: - the interface is connected to the car - the ignition is turned ON. Control LED This is a blue LED that will light up when: - the interface is connected to the car with the DDL connector - the interface is connected to the serial port of your laptop/computer with the serial cable - the ignition of the car is ON - the conZult software is running - the software is accessing the interface When there is no need for the software to communicate with the interface the blue LED will turn off after a few seconds. Transmit/Receive LED This is a dual color LED. This LED will light up in yellow or red when there is data communication between the car/ECU and computer.

yes, looks like the one, but could be a chinese copy. In most cases it's not a good idea to use ebay as your local tuning shop. too many chinese crap copies around of about anything you can think of. better get it from a aeromotive (or paxton, which has the same fpr but rebadged) in the US or get it through a certified dealer. (http://www.webster-race-engineering.co.uk)

> But your preference would be feeding fuel in at two opposite ends and then to the regulator through a central 'T' junction. better option then messing around with T junctions, is to use an aeromotive FPR, which has two feeds and one return Another advantage is you don't always have to run both pumps at the same time. >problem I see with 1 pump per line is you're screwed if you loose a pump! The Aeromotive FPR will balance the pressure in both rails, even when fed through one pump.

option1, cheapest solution is a custom map in/for your stock computer option 2, middle solution is nistune, but you'd still need to have it custom mapped. tbh. nistune is nice if you are constantly changing your own setup and know how to adjust/tune yourself...if not: option 1 is the one to choose option3, expensive solution is an aftermarket ECU, eg. AEM, VIPEC, etc.....and then have it custom mapped. the last option is overkill on a semi stock car (imo)

sometimes it's written on the ecu, otherwise get it through the software it's a number which look like: 23710-xxxxx

the "jumping" numbers/bars can indicate a dodgy USb converter or connection. Best is to try it on another Zed, to see if the software behaves better. If it does, it's your ECU..if it doesn't, it's the laptop/cable/USB-converter > im worried the ecu thinks its a manual tho not an auto if the conzult indicates the ECU is for a manual it's safe to assume that's correct but I can look it up for you to be sure, what's the exact partnumber of the ECU ?

http://www.karljapetre.com/z/ecu/

i don't really understand... every time you post a problem and then say you have your garage look at it. are they that thick that they can't come up with a solution or fix themselves ? I presume you pay them to solve a particular problem ? ... if they can't you need to find a specialist or garage that CAN solve the problem without the owner telling them on how to fix a particular problem.

> no engine mods..... standard NA engine with low boost turbo strapped to it I recommend you'd upgrade at least the injectors (you can use twinturbo injectors). The NA injectors can only deliver enough fuel for up to 270-ish fwhp Apart from that the NA engine can take boost very well with the right modifications (good intercooling, enough fuel and good tuning/chip)

the oil is probably not coming from the turbo or intake (as then the car would smoke very bad) It's more likely to be a leak from the cam cover, which is a plenum off job to fix.

have you verified the (adjustable) rod sticking out of the booster (the one that goes into the master cylinder) was at the same length as the rod from you old booster ? I presume this is causing your problem. otherwise put your old booster back in.

Why did you unbolt the mastercylinder to replace the pedal ? or you mean you replaced the booster ? or is your car a Non Turbo ? (but then it wouldn't have a booster)

> The rails would be a pain to fit under the plenum that will probably never fit. the fuel rails will run above the plenum here's a company that sells a prefabbed kit: http://bde-performance.com/fuel.htm

I have seen bakalite plenum spacers for the Z32 at some shop in australia. Best is to ask around on the Aussie forum...they probably know more.

I did it a few years ago. the balance bar and injector caps need to be "modified"..but other then that it is pretty straight forward and works very well if you use good quality hoseclamps and fuelrails >> just need the fuel rail so... easiest option is using/finding a set of fuelrails from a Z31 (previous model 300ZX) other option is using a universal fuelrail and welding feeds to it for the injectors

I hope you didn't use the red NA injectors (the ones shown in the 2nd picture) in a TT-engine with a TT ECU ?

> what offset wheel did you buy for the front and width? I'll have to check. I think it's the 8 or 8.5 +20 > you have the 5 spoke design am i right? the 5 spokes (twin-5's) are on my other Zed. I also have the ultralite nurburgrings my rides section needs to be updated ;-)

I have these wheels and they'll clear stock brakes and 350Z/GT-R brakes without spacers. I now have a Brembo GT brakekit (355mm rotors) and needed a small 8mm spacer to clear the calipers

unless you have some fancy twin/triple plate carbon clutch, you do know you need to run/break in a new clutch for approx. 500km ? if you don't you probably need a new one within a year, because it will start slipping again... -Eric

> So the sx standard gasket would fit a z32 with 5 bolt downpipes and JWT 530 tubs. yes