lymon

> Lymon - do you have more pages from the consult manual? yes, I have the complete consult 1 and consult 2 manual (both in paper form), but both manuals are in German...only the General information section also has a few English parts. I have had quite a few original consult units go through my hands and most of the problems with the consult 1 units are simple: the battery packs are long gone and/or the backup battery is dead. If yours doesn't power up the main battery pack is most likely dead...as is the backup battery. The main battery pack needs to be in good shape and (fully) charged, otherwise you won't be able to power up the consult unit. Connecting the charger or connecting it to the car won't work..it needs a functional and charged battery pack. Easiest way to fix a dead battery pack is to just cut the pack open and replace the 4 cells with 4 AA rechargeable batteries (2000mah or higher) > Mine powers up but just says error code 200 for future reference: Error 200 : Low main battery (solution: replace/repair main battery pack) Error 203 : Low backup battery (solution: replace backup Lithium battery) Error 206 or 211 : Program error (solution: reload the main program from card) Hope this helps.

unless the NA is in much, much better condition I wouldnt waste time trying to convert it to a TT, as a LOT of work is involved. (it's not just the engine you will have to swap) > Also, i don't know whether to use a TT flywheel and clutch kit or a NA stage 3 clutch kit? both will work, but it also depend on the amount of power you want. There are much stronger clutches available for TT's. As you mention you want to make it a drift car, so it may be worth investing in a TT flywheel/clutch combo When using a TT flywheel/clutch with a NA gearbox you may need to grind some material from the inside of the bell housing, but this is not always needed...you will need to use spacers on the starter though.

with these kinds of troubling noises from the engine and you are absolutely sure it has enough oil, next thing to check is the oil pan for dents. When it has been hit by something and has a dent, then it is very likely the oilpickup has been damaged also and this can cause all sorts of (serious) oilpressure problems.

With Conzult you can diagnose/monitor the Engine ECU, AT-ECU (if applicable), Aircon ECU (if applicable), HICAS ECU (if applicable), Airbag ECU (if applicable) With Nistune you can monitor Engine ECU and do some Engine diagnostic routines, but Nistune is mainly focused on and used for remapping. Datascan does engine ECU, HICAS and Airbag monitoring/diagnostics

With Conzult you can diagnose/monitor the Engine ECU, AT-ECU (if applicable), Aircon ECU (if applicable), HICAS ECU (if applicable), Airbag ECU (if applicable) With Nistune you can monitor Engine ECU and do some Engine diagnostic routines, but Nistune is mainly focused on and used for remapping. Datascan does engine ECU, HICAS and Airbag monitoring/diagnostics

> Pump ethanol free here is US 91 AKI. I am at 3,300 ft above sea level and > 19-20 degrees BTDC at full throttle These ignition levels with 91AKI fuel might be the cause for your detonation problems..(even at low boost levels) and cause the ECU to switch to safety boost mode. (temporarily) retard the base timing to 12 or 13 BTDC and see if that helps...if so, you will need a remap (or get better fuel)

Best to just keep an eye on the oil-level...if drops quickly the problem is most likely engine or turbos..if you don't seem to loose any oil it must be old oil in the exhaust :)

Maybe it's just oil in the exhaust/cats from the previous blown engine.

might be worn/defective VTC gears...you can use conzult to switch on/off the VTC (gears) and listen if this the cause of the rattle. If so, you will need to replace both VTC sprockets

yes, you can. pump will be noisy and wear out faster though.

do you have any oil pressure ? From the video it sounds like the heads are not getting any/enough oil

Oh, and forgot: also check 2x 10A fuse in the relay box (under bonnet), right row

there are about 7-8 fuses that are related and/or responsible for the aircon system, but the 3 main ones to check: 2x 15A in the footwell fusebox (middle row) 1 fusible link (afaik. the red one) for the compressor in the fusebox with fusible links.

Are you sure you used cylinder 1 to measure the ignition signal from ?

just a small addition, keep an eye on the casting stamp on the side of the heads. if you are replacing 40P TT heads with NA heads on a TT block, verify the casting stamp on the NA heads is 30P and not 10Y (which is later style and your lower intake will not fit). if you have 48P stamped TT heads (later style) I would strongly recommend against replacing these with (10Y) NA heads

the freeware version setup file on the conzult website works fine and it's not missing any files. If your laptop does not have any native (RS232) comports, It's a (missing) driver issue. You will need to plug in your (USB) cable in your laptop and make sure the USB VCP driver for the cable installs correctly...most cables use a FTDI or Profilic chipset and windows should recognize it. After that a VCP will be created and you should be able to start the conzult software without errors.

the problem is most likely caused by a missing (VCP) driver for the communication cable you are using.

readjusting the door-windows may help if it''s really leaking through the window-seal, but many ttops are actually not leaking through the window-seal but through the seal/strip on top of the ttop. Remove the inside trim of the ttop and drive through a carwash (or have someone spray water over the ttops) to see if this is the case.

it might need a factory reset...using this procedure:

that doesn't look very safe ! :scared::scared:

there is no self diagnostic mode for the later 20-pin versions of the ASCD...you will need to connect a consult to be able to diagnose these. You can do some trouble diagnosis using the procedures as described in this document: http://dta-motorsport.com/temp/ASCD_V2.pdf there's no sensor or switch in the area of the auto shifter, so I doubt it has anything to do with it not wanting to engage.

> what he said.... how much and best place to buy... http://conzult.com current official dealers are DTA (Europe), Z1 (USA) and ConceptZ (USA) if you already have a (eg. ebay) cable, a limited freeware version can be downloaded from the site, to see if the software works with your cable.

stuck rings is possible...especially the bottom scraper ring(s) Stuck scraper rings do not really influence compression figures, but the engine will use a lot of oil (and will usually smoke pretty bad). So keep a close eye on the oil level.. Also old oil in the exhaust/cats from a previous blown engine/turbo, will start smoking once the exhaust/cat will heat up after a minute or so...not immidiately It also has a different smell then oil that is burned by the engine..old oil in the exhaust has more of a burning rubber/plastic type smell.

>> What's so different with the 99 spec interior ? in some versions it has red stitching on leather items: (in the non leather '99 spec versions) also the parts that are normally cloth/alcantara on the doorpanels and under the dash, are made of some really nice fabric...it has a carbon-fiber look. You can a small part of it here: The non leather '99 specs have recaro seats The non recaro '99 specs have some really nice leather, also on the doorpanels/under the dash/etc. some more pictures of '99 spec features can be found here: http://www.yugobernie.com/images/JDM_Brochure/