lymon

timing will be 25 BTDC at idle when this pin is not grounded when grounded, timing should be 15 BTDC at idle and engine fully warmed up.

measurement 1: -12mm (in other words it sticks out of the bellhouse) measurement 2: 16mm

I know someone from Germany that has a T56 from a Viper fitted in his 300ZX , but I wouldn't bother unless you have some real serious power (torque) and your car is eating standard gearboxes for breakfast.. It's a lot of work like custom adapterplate, driveshaft and some other bits and pieces to make it work and in the end it will cost (a lot) more then a used/good standard gearbox or even an rebuild of your current transmission..

the 16 bit ecu's have already been cracked for ages and those daughterboards have been around for a long time (Techtom Japan were the first in the late 90's) Nowadays there are also Nistune boards available for the 16-bit ECU's, so you can make realtime changes to mappings and other variables. one of the downsides is however that a daughterboard as in your picture and/or Nistune boards are a lot more expensive then a simple 32 kb Eprom + socket

most important is to store it at a dry location and not in a humid shed or something. You can put some oil in the bores, but put the sparkplugs back in afterwards. If possible remove the cambelt and set all camshaft pulleys in the neutral location, to release tension from the valve-springs and at the same time close the cylinders airtight. Turning the crankshaft every once in a while is good also (can still be done with the cambelt removed and camshafts in neutral position)

How does it start when the engine is warm ? If it then also is hard to start, then do a compression test on the engine first.. hard/long starts is a classic sign of low compression.

>Just to add, i have fitted hks actuators so im pretty sure they are strong enough to hold 17psi for sure..... unless they have been set to low BUT if they hold base pressure at a steady 10-11 psi surely this eliminates that possibility? sticky actuator stuck open slightly? I think this is your problem (actuator base pressure set too low)... The rule for (larger) turbos with internal wastegates is to set the (actuator) base pressure to about 2/3 of the max. boost you want to be running. and 2/3 of 17 psi (the max you are currently able to boost) is.... try to increase the base pressure by resetting the actuator-arms (fiddly but do-able with the engine in the car) ..or only do the LH turbo (where the actuator-arm is best accessible) for testing purposes only..to see if it helps to increase the max boost. > Im going to do another boost leak test 2mow and test it at 18 psi to see what happens. I suggest you don't try that...you are likely to blow out gaskets with that kind of pressure on a non running engine.

>> Have you given it a go Eric? yes and didn't work apart from gearbox oil all over the exhaust :D

>There has been talk on driftworks of slightly overfilling the box, which reduces starvation when oil surge occurs. there's no use in overfilling it.... the gearbox will start leaking from the back/propshaft

rpm doesn't matter...extra fuel is added under all conditions (aka. choke) and it's not just the extra fuel that causes damage... what do you think the white smoke from the exhaust is when the engine is idling ? ...it's basically water (vapor). Especially when the engine is still cold, water vapor will condense on the cylinder walls and be picked up by the oil... water and oil don't mix very well and it will contaminate oil and may damage engine components. This condensation happens mostly under idling conditions, because combustion temperatures and exhaust-gas velocity are relatively low. it has been tested/proved several times that an engine (especially larger engines with over 2000cc) will warm up over twice as fast when driving it, instead of leaving it idling.

oops, first link should be:

a 4wd Zed seems to be possible by crossbreeding it with a R33 GTR.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_oWBR

> never seen those stainless ones before, pretty sure those stainless ones would probbaly crack etc very risky cast manifolds can crack just as easy...as with everything it depends on the quality of the materials used.

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=gi&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=19&design=default&total=25

Sorry, wasn't meant to offend anyone. Just wanted to point out the type-R naming is Honda talk...and not used by Nissan > And who says that the one in the original link is NOT a Version R? Version-R's are twinturbo's...the one in the link obviously isn't.

>> and the rarely available "type R"... that's not a version-R (also called type-R by the ignorant)...this is: http://dta-motorsport.com/marktplaats/versionr.htm

the ray wheels fit fine, although the stock 350z tire-height may be a bit too large..

I have a (US-spec) '96 Z32 TT MT OBD2 compatible ECU + wiringloom + some of the additional sensors for sale. If you're interested in it contact me offline. PS: I will and can NOT give any support getting it to work....but as you are a Technology Consultant you probably won't need any ;-)

I'd set them to about 12 psi rule of thumb is to preset the wastegate actuators to about 2/3 of the maximum boost you are planning to run. GT25(54)R's start to loose efficiency above 22 psi. Max. safe boost on regular fuel is 18 psi

I would imagine this would be a serious safety issue in case of a rear end collision. Exhaust is one of the things that is hit first and in this case it could take the tank with it or rip it open.

hydraulic

As j1mmytt mentions, the powersteering will be heavy if you completely unplug the ECU, this becuase the PS is also controlled by this HICAS ECU. There are 2 plugs, if you leave the smallest of the two plugged in (from the top of my head), the HICAS will be disabled, but PS will still work as normal

or maybe you can use the signal of one of the rear ABS sensors...which are hall sensors. Also, don't forget the Main engine ECU and HICAS/PS-ECU (and AT-ECU if your car has an auto transmission) will still need the original speed signal as generated by the standard speedometer (pulse signal) If you don't provide the vss signal to these ECU's, you will run in all sorts of problems....

> how much do they want for that ride ?? 3800000 JPY http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d100583213 looks like it's an official abflug demo car...

I looked into this as well a few years ago, but you still won't be able to remove the sensor with the engine installed in the car. You need to remove the gearbox to be able to access it this way (from below) Which is still less work then having to remove the plenum/timingbelt/lower intake/etc though ! :)