lymon

>> Next question is WHY the ECU is aiming for 21deg.. it was probably aiming for 21 BTDC as the engine wasn't fully warmed up yet. it's important you don't make any changes to base idle and ignition settings, before the engine has warmed up (>75 C) in this case the coughs and splutters may be cause by a bad temp. sensor or loose/corroded connector..this would be my first suspect. Next in line to check is the CAS connector

Yes, looks like it needs a new center bearing (available seperately from Nissan)

all standard jspec ecu's have a speedlimit of 184kmh, where european/uk/us ones have the limit at 252kmh apart from that the differences are very minor, jspec ecu's tend to have a slightly more aggressive ignition map, because of their higher octane fuel -Eric

if you're 100% sure it's not a dented sump/oilpan then the only thing I can think of is some failure/problem with the valve that regulates the oil going through the oilcooler or some blockage of the oilfilter tree. Also, have you tried a different (original Nissan) oil filter ?

>> I think Eric (Lymon) developed a circuit for detecting the ecu going into (or trying to go into) safety boost conditions and displaying with a warning light. (On request) I can program this feature into our DTA chips nowadays :D check engine light will blink on detection of detonation or once the car goes into safety boost. >> Remember though that the det sensor only works up to 3k rpm then the ECU stops listening. the ecu only really uses the detonation sensor signal in a small portion of the ignition map, but it "listens" always...on all rev ranges. It has an electronic filter that will filter most (read: too much) of the engine noise above 3500 rpm, making it unsensitive to detonation. -Eric

when the pump was replaced, did you check if the oil pickup or oilpan were dented ? As this is a common cause for oilpressure problems on these cars.. -Eric

try bypassing the FPU http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.369

Rich, with the AEM specifically, what works on one car doesn't necessarily have to work on another car just as well. Especially if you are using the MAP sensor setup, which relies on the engine VE (Volumetric Efficiency) I have tried to help you several times, but it's very hard to "finetune" a car by email. Also, as I said before, if you want the most out of the AEM for your car it's best to go to a certified AEM tuner near you or bring the car over here to DTA Motorsport in Holland, so we can do it for you. -Eric

what boost was it running before you fitted the EBC ? or in other words: any chance it still has boost jets in the hoses to the wastegates ?

stock wastegate actuator pressure is 7 psi or approx. 0.5 bar when connected and activated, the stock boost solenoids bleed of air so the wategates open up 2.5 psi later at 9.5 psi >> I understood that with the EBC OFF, MAX boost equates to saftey boost of 7PSI but not saftey "Mode" so the fuel and timing maps stay normal. this is correct...but this is ONLY the case if you have disconnected the stock boost solenoids. if you haven't, the ECU will interfere and activate the stock solenoids and increase boost to 9.5 psi

I have those on my Zed for years now. As have 4 others here in Holland. One of the best sounding exhausts for the Zed (imo), although the quality (esp. fitment) could be better as these are supposed to be "handmade" and one of the most expensive off the shelve exhaust systems available for these cars.

>> sorry its a N/A model 91 jap spec auto. Ok, I see :) Does it have the problem since recently ? or has it always done that ? >> Shift solenoids A+B >> Speed sensor both are very important Did you/Andy check if the speed signal worked on the Main engine ECU ? >>This all leads me to believe its the Auto Ecu could be the case. or it's a wiring issue (more common). Has the transmission ever been removed ?

Maybe you can give a little more details on the car ? >> TT is incompatible with the N/A Autobox ? perhaps? I dont know. You have a N/A auto transmission in a Turbo car ??... or a N/A AT ecu on a TT auto transmission ? You can not use a TT AT ecu on a NA gearbox and vice versa. and it's not a very good idea to use a NA auto transmisson in a TT, unless you're desperate :) have you checked the obvious things, like gearbox oil level ? jerky gearshifts can indicate a problem with oil pressure (being too high) or wrong ATF oil. having a good speed signal is also very important, as the AT ECU uses this for it's internal shift maps.

-Nissan Sunny/Almera/Primera doorlock hinges fit the Zed -R32 GTR upper rear control arms (also most upgraded ones) fit the Zed -Tomei GTR solid lifters, valve springs, retainers and shims fit the Zed -R33 crank and cam seals (also the N1 ones fit) -350Z/VQ35 Powersteering pump fits with slight modifications -350Z/VQ35 Oilpressure sender -(Nismo) R33 GTR gear box mount. -R33 GTR accelerator peddle (has a bulge at bottom for heal toe) -Zed,R32 GTR and R33 GTST have same gear box (the center section with the gears)

visually no difference and TT and NA CB are interchangable. although they have a different partnr. for some reason

>> I think the housings are the same size just the actual impellors/compressors are different. I could be wrong though stock turbos are hybrids: TB22 (turbine/exhaust side) T25 (compressor/intake side) the core or CHRA (rotating parts) of auto and manual turbos are exactly the same and can be interchanged. The only difference between auto and manual turbos is just the exhaust housing/shell: it has a slightly lower AR-ratio, to help the turbo to spoolup quicker -Eric

is the connector on the ascd actuator (the one that actually controls the 2nd throttle cable) plugged in ? -Eric

just bought this one in Japan a couple of weeks ago. the car isn't here (in Holland) yet, but will soon be.. would the car be legal in the UK if it has european/dutch plates or does the 10 year rule apply for all imports ?

there were only 2 street versions built: http://www.cartype.com/page.cfm?id=1363&alph=all&dec=all

depends where you measure the boost. if you measure it as close to the turbo as possible (eg. by tapping the lines into the compressor housings) you will certainly be able to see the difference.

here's another one :D http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/showDetails.html?id=4116394&__lp=2&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.consumerGrossEuro&sortOption.sortOrder=ASCENDING&makeModelVariant1.makeId=18700&makeModelVariant1.modelId=5&makeModelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&vehicleCategory=Car&segment=Car&minFirstRegistrationDate=1990-01-01&negativeFeatures=EXPORT&damageUnrepaired=ALSO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&customerIdsAsString=&lang=de&pageNumber=2

check with a conzult if the ECU gets a speed signal. if the speed wire to the ECU has been cut (eg. in an attempt to override the speed limit) you'll have a much lower rev limit and other problems, because the ecu thinks the car is standing still

> ....and whereabouts in Holland is DTA ? DTA have a workshop in Haarlem (near Amsterdam) and a workshop in Tilburg

1.8 bar on stock tubs/injectors did the trick :D

Good to hear Mark.. Yes, the engine was running very sweet. I hope the oil in the exhaust (from the old engine) will burn up soon oh...and don't let your son touch the boost controller ever again !! ;)