lymon

long block: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=LVG30DTT-MT short block: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=SVG30DTT (so basically just the bottom end)

>> The only physical difference is the TT casing is thicker to handle more torque. actually it's the other way around... the TT's bellhousing is slightly thinner because the TT-flywheel has a slightly larger diameter

I have a '93 RHD shell in VERY good condition available. no damage/rust. it's located in Holland though. contact me if you're interested -Eric

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/3/1269617/1269617

>> that its an EPROM chip with 256kb of memory. actually that's an OTP PROM (one time programmable rom) an EPROM (the one with a small round "window" in the middle) can be erased and reprogrammed...

>> It comes on as soon as the engine is started and makes loud hoover type noise when engine is revved, This is absolutely normal and this is one sign of how a good working viscous fan can be recognized. >> There is also a weird noise at about 2.5-4k rpm from that area, sounds like a shook beer can full of tiny stones/bolts. This sounds more worrying ...could be detonation. Did you check/set the ignition timing after the installation of the timingbelt ? > Also as soon as the fan comes on it feels as if it's holding the engine back almost like the engine goes down on one cyl. In most cases the fan comes "on" around an engine temp of between 90-95 Celcius. It should not hold back the engine, not noticeable anyway, so the holding back could be something else....overheating maybe ?

>> I've been looking at AMZ a word of warning: don't waste your time with AMZ...they have a VERY bad reputation.

>> It seems strange that the EBC could be the problem when it also happens when the EBC is off? well...the overboost problem starts as soon as you turn on the EBC. even after you turn the EBC off the problem stays for a while So my guess is, that the EBC is probably still energizing the EBC solenoid...even when it's turned off. that's why I asked to disconnect the solenoid (or otherwise cut the power to the EBC completely) when it's in overboost mode with the EBC turned off. You will probably find it goes back to normal 7psi boost almost instantly

> I have already tried a second EBC solenoid in case and this produces the same results. sounds like the EBC is faulty then... I don't think it's a problem with your wg actuators

Do you have the EBC solenoid installed in a location where it can get wet ? (as this will kill the solenoid after a while) if you disconnect the EBC solenoid when it's in *overboost* mode, does it return back to safetyboost immidiately ? if yes, the EBC itself is the problem if not, it's probably the solenoid as you already seem to have checked/replaced all hoses

Any ECU errorcodes ?

Is battery fully charged ? ECU needs at least 10V to operate correctly are you sure you have a good PTU and connectors are also clean ? quick way to check if the injectors are firing/working: remove cas but leave connected to harness, put on ignition and manually turn the cas. You should hear the injectors clicking -Eric

I have the old style Nismo 555's for over 5 years now.no problems at all. it's this particular line that says it all (imo) : Since the fuel changed with alcohol content they are all failing extremely soon. He is reffering to the ethanol bio fuel widely used in the US. Most early style (14+ year old) injectors, like the stock injectors, were not designed to run on this kind of fuel, hence the failures

looks like you have a series 2 speedo... there's no information on how to modify these (afaik)

were you using realtime map tracing ?...in other words, you knew exactly what cells in the map the ECU was reading ? The ECU uses interpolation to calculate the actual value, as rpm and engine load are never really exactly as what is specified in the map scales. Because of this it reads the value of 4 adjacent cells at once and basically averages these 4 cells. This can explain a higher value... without realtime tracing there's no way you can accurately "guess" what cells it was reading, unless you have set all cells in the map to 1 value.

remove the oilcap with the engine running and check for pressure...too much pressure can be caused by engine compression problems. If you even see signs of exhaust fumes coming out from there it's very bad news. If the engine starts to run unstable as soon as you remove the cap it's usually a PCV valve stuck open.

>> An engine management system that has ignition inputs will surely advance ignition angles to an extreme if the knock sensor isn't providing a signal in reference to pinking. This is not the case in the Z32 ECU. (and quite a few other Nissan ECU's like the ones used in the R32, R33, S13, etc). the ECU will NEVER advance the ignition by itself over the levels as specified in the ignition maps. -Eric

if a cylinder is marked red, it means the rpms didn't drop enough for that particular cylinder. If you do the test several times and if the same cylinder keeps coming back as red, it means that particular cylinder isn't doing it's job. This can be caused by three things: no spark, no fuel or no compression on that cylinder. if it shows a different cylinder every time you do the power balance test, it usually means there's something wrong with the PTU or it's connectors

No, it's different. Master cylinder of a TT has vacuum assist + booster and NA hasn't slave cylinders are the same though.

>> IIRC all were in tolerance except 1 which was 2psi below minimum. I think you have already found the problem then....

In the US quite a few Z's have come to their end because of this. In most cases this is caused by loose clamps on the fuelhoses, causing fuelleaks in and around the engine. The leaks normally get worse once the outside temperatures drop (especially during the autumn and winter) So, if you smell fuel while driving...don't ignore it !

>> On a coastdown with 0% throttle open, what is happening in the engine? Are the injectors applying fuel? Are the spark plugs operating? It depends on engine temperature, speed and on automatics on other variables as well, but basically if the ECU detects the throttle is at 0% (this is determined by the closed throttle switch) it will cut fuel until rpms have dropped to 1900 rpm. >> How does this theory sound? possible, but more likely on a Zed it's due to worn rings. Have you done a compression test yet ? -Eric

not much info in the post itself unfortunately, but apparently they have been running both a NA and a TT on a dedicated LPG system for 3 months now: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=265728

>> add a 360 thrust washer & still class them as uprated hybrids!! that's probably because our stock turbos are already hybrids from factory :D

make sure the closed throttle switch has been reset: it should be "ON" at idle. if it isn't, disconnect the grey TPS connector (the one that's on a separate wire) for 10 seconds while the engine is idling